I made some logos on my printer, red, and when I laminated them on, they pretty much disappeared. You can see the logo on the light color areas, but it gets pretty faint on the darker areas. I’ve included a photo of the board with no logo’s. I pulled them off because it didn’t come out the way that I had planned. The printer I am using is a Canon PIXMA iP6000D. Some of the other boards I have, HIC, Gerry Lopez, their logos show up on the darker colored areas. I also notice their logos have white in them. How do I accompolish that ??? Do I have to go to a professional printing/graphic shop ??
print with pigment ink if you can. i believe the photo printers w/ photo ink are pretty good…but double check on that.
to get a white lam, spray paint the back of it white (not too heavy), and then cut the outline tight with the logo. what was clear now becomes white.
I hate to admit it, but I’ve been using regular inkjet paper for my lams for the past couple years with great results. You can print them up, paint the backside white, then cut it out. I was having problems getting a white background with regular lam paper because once you’ve painted it, it sometimes jams in the printer and the image isn’t that crisp. I iron my lams between two sheets of paper (even when printed on “rice” paper) to insure that they lay down flat with no air bubbles. Just choose/create a graphic with an outline so you can trim the edges more easily. I can’t preview my attachment for some reason, but I think it shows the crispness of the graphic. Hope this helps…
i give it 1 or 2 shots of white AFTER i print the lams…works for me
i was using a hp printer/scanner jobby to print my lams for a while, and it works fine. i think the ink might be a bit different. i also found that if i printed one on regular paper first, the second one on rice paper came out more crisp. a warm up? red is typically a very transparent color, in paint, tint etc… that could be part of the problem. my old logo had a red spot right in the center, and would disappear on anything but red based colors, or yellow/white. try using blue, or black maybe?
while i was waiting for my logos to come back from the ‘real’ printer down here, i experimented with plain old printer paper, and as long as you back with white of some sort, and trim it closely, you can’t really tell the difference.
Howzit surfthis, I print lams for quite a few board builders and I do the white paint after I print the lam. One trick is to use white paint that has been thinned with acrylic thinner instead of water for thr thinning. I do find that some times the white comes through the printed lam and leaves some white spots. Maybe the trick for you would be to do 1 coat of white on the back then print the lam and then do a second coat of white. This might let the paper run through the printerr easier.Aloha,Kokua
You guys have pretty much gave me a headache trying to figure out all this.
I am kinda highjacking this thread and sorry but…
If i am trying to get a picture or logo onto the board without it being a sticker and want to galss it in.
How do i go about doing that??
Confused.
Print on what?
With what ink?
Where on the board to put it ( between what layers)
Cheers
How do i go about doing that??
A graphic art/print shop can do the full pro version for a fee. There are several graphic places that specialize in surfboard graphics. Check the resource section… one example:
http://dreamflagproductions.com/
To do it yourself, scan or download an image to your computer. Print on to paper that will turn transparent and lay flat when glassed.
Print on what?
Tissue paper or thin rice paper are often used. Either will probably work best if taped to heavier paper before running through printer. “Logo paper” is available through FoamEZ:
http://www.foamez.com/store/productDetails.cfm?prodID=84&prodIDCat=51
With what ink?
Standard computer printer ink seems to work for many but test it before laminating on board to make sure colors don’t bleed.
Where on the board to put it ( between what layers)
Directly on foam or between double layers of cloth.
Howzit cheater_5, Get some rice papr to print on from a art and hobby store, you might have to cut it to work in your printer though. Hopefully your printer uses archival ink which doesn't fade like dye inks do ( in a few weeks ), but almost all printers use pigment ink for black which won't fade either. On the bottom you put the lam between the blank and the glass. On the deck it goes between the 2 layers of glass. Photo printers also work well since they use a chromatic ink which won't fade. I use an Epson C-82 which is a few years old but keeps on ticking and the new model is a C-86 and they are under $100. Aloha,Kokua
Cheers guys
that helped a lot. I was getting a little bit worried on how i was going to pt the logos onto the fish im making.
Have a couple of logos that i have been working on for a while now. Should look good.
in the “surf” movie Big Wendsday there is a fantastic demenstration of bear glassing a logo on.
after he cuts his laps he just sticks the decal under the glass and poors on the resin.
Is there any kind of white lam paper that already exists ?? Or is painting the back the only option … How does pigment ink and photo ink differ ??
i honestly have no idea what the difference is (if there is any)…but i use a “pigment ink” pen to sign and write specs., and i print my lams with the photo cartridge on my HP printer. never had any problems with either.
i’ve always sprayed the logo paper to get a solid white background. always get a good result, and it’s not the kinda thing that you can really screw up. however, i remember hearing from someone that they printed their lams on really thin, cheap printer paper…and that gave him the white back, and because the paper was so thin he didn’t have any problems wetting it out.
What I do is ‘fill’ the inner white areas with a shade off white, that way the printer ‘prints’ the white, and there is no visible difference between it and full white (which will come out clear). The white areas will be there, and the cut area on the outside will still be clear. viola.
try: 247,247,247 instead of 255,255,255
-or-
try: #F7F7F7 instead of #FFFFFF
You can even try some numbers closer to the full white and see how they do.
(I use an older ‘Photo Realistic’ Canon BJC-250 without probs. The printer doesn’t have real good resolution, but they come out well. Sorry, no pics. I’m fixing to try a high resolution Lexmark and see how it does.)
One thing I should also add. I print on to iron-on paper which keeps the lines nice and crisp, cut it out, then iron it on to the lam paper. Works like a charm.
Howzit ozzy, Seems like more work and more costly to get the same results as printing directly on rice paper. I'd think twice before going with a Lexmark, they are known for their great text printing but when it comes to graphics they are one of the most expensive per page printers on the market. Try finding an Epson C-86 which should run between $79.00 and $100.00 and they are one of the cheapest per page plus they use Durabrite ink which is an archival ink that will last for over 40 years with out fading. Aloha,Kokua
Ok. The Lexmark was given to me. I was thinking of trying it because of the 1200x1200dpi resolution. I also have an HP-712c, but I haven’t tried it yet.
Yes, it’s a little more work, but the lines and edges come out much crisper and sharper. When I taped lam paper to a sheet of printer paper, the ink wicked in the lam paper and the edges were blurred. It looked so bad it wasn’t even useable. Then I started using iron-on paper, and it prints like a photo. Then when I iron it on to the lam paper, the heat of the iron sets the solid colors to be completely opaque, and makes them bleed proof also. The only extra work it takes is laying down a clean piece of printer paper to catch the bleed through when ironing, and line all of the cut out logos on the lam paper and iron them on. Not much extra work at all considering the results. If I would’ve know how well this works - eliminating so many other potential problems, I would’ve done it this way from the start. I can spare an extra 30 minutes per batch of logos.
Quote:
try: 247,247,247 instead of 255,255,255
-or-
try: #F7F7F7 instead of #FFFFFF
You can even try some numbers closer to the full white and see how they do.
Please explain numbers above. I am familiar with color numbering in ACAD, is this what you’re referring to? Thanks in advance.
Quote:
try: 247,247,247 instead of 255,255,255
-or-
try: #F7F7F7 instead of #FFFFFF
You can even try some numbers closer to the full white and see how they do.
Please explain numbers above. I am familiar with color numbering in ACAD, is this what you’re referring to? Thanks in advance.
No. Those are RGB (RedGreenBlue) and CMYK (see note) color formats in graphics programs. The color mode, and palette used, of the pic itself. If you are using a 2/16/256 color logo, it is in RGB format. This is the most common format.
I=intensity (brightness) don’t worry about that. It isn’t there in all graphics apps. This screen capture is in PaintShopPro5, but the logo was created in PhotoShop. The image is a 256 color gif. The RGB numbers displayed are of the color below the numbers.
Note: (CyanMagentaYellowblacK), which ‘I think’ looks like html format, but that may just be the graphics prog. I’m using.
AND my neverending thanks to Andy Nall of Slotted Boardwear Mfg. for the logo help.
Btw, can anyone see much difference between the full white around the outside edges and the one shade off white inside the outline? I can, barely. But that is mainly because the screen capture pic I posted is a 16 million color jpg. It’s not even noticeable coming out of your printer.