just need some real quick avdice about a hotcoat that cured really tackey and is clogging up my sandpaper pretty bad. this was the second hotcoat of the board. the first one i sanded with 100 and wasn’t tackey. this one i started at 220 but it just wouldnt work. any reason why this happens? i let it sit for a good 5-10 minutes. i was using uv and i know that not the best for hotcoats, next time i’ll use cat. so should i hand sand this one down and do another coat? should i handsand this one to fine and be done? the board has a dark resin tint so scratches are visible. Also suggestions for what grits i should use? please help me out i need to finish the board soon.
It isn’t a matter of minutes. And; No 5-10 minutes probably isn’t enough. I don’t know who taught, told or instructed you on how to do this; but somebody gave you misinformation. Questions; If you had a successfully sanded hot coat the 1st time why did you do a second hot oat?? And; You DO NOT base when to sand a hot coat on how many minutes it’s been since you brushed it onto the board. You brush and lay off the hot coat and then expose it too UV for less than 20 seconds. This will activate the resin and the wax in the sanding resin. Then stick the board back inside, out of direct UV light. The board will turn milky in appearance as the wax rises. An oil on water appearance. Once that occurs set the board under direct UV light until it is hard. It is then sandable. What grit you start with is dependent on your brush work. If you are seeing scratches; go to the next grit. Next time do your research or read more carefully. UV is the fastest most dependable way to lam and hot coat a board. Your idea that it isn’t is based on the fact that you did it incorrectly. Can anyone say — ARCHIVES???
AND. — to correct your mistake; Do another Hotcoat. Thin it 10% Acetone… Cure it properly as I have stated and you will be able to sand your F()?-up. Lowel
ok chill. to clarify I obviously did not sand the board after 10 minutes of putting the hot coat on. that was when I exposed it to uv. I did a second hot coat because I have read in the archives multiple times to get the best sanded finish you do one sand it rough then another and sand it fine. also I have read multiple times in the archives that uv not the best for a hotcoat because when you move it out to the sub you can tip the resin off the board and make an uneven surface. but thank you for the advice
Show me a link to that misinformation in the Archives… Seems like you got it figured out. What do I know. Been using UV consistently since 1993. Everybody in the Idusyry that uses it would like to know your secret. You didn’t let the wax rise. So it stayed tacky. When others chime in here, you’ll see what I mean. Lowel
i know the wax did not rise. I’m wondering why and how to fix it becasue i don’t know those answers. to get into detail, I brushed on my hotcoat, let it settle, moved the board into the sun for 20-30 seconds, let it sit for 10 then cured it all the way. that is basically the exact same as what you have said so i don’t know why your telling me i f’d up or to go search the archives because i’ve done my research. to clarify i did not use catalyst, but you seem offended when i said that others on here said it was best for hotcoats so.
here’s rooster 11 years ago “Listen to Keith and J.Troy. I’ve had the same problem until I started adding cat. to my sun cure hotcoat resin. I also found if I stick with the power sander and frequent gum-ups I get through the outer gum layer and they sanded normal after that. Mike”
AND here is RESINHEAD also "I’m jumping into this late, but I’ve found out that using UV resin for the hotcoat is just another possibility to screw up. I only use UV resin on the lamination, all hotcoats are either UV plus cat, or just cat / standard resin. When I use just UV hotcoat all sorts of weird things happen when you try to move a wet board into the sun. First off, lots of times you get the brain crackle pattern when the wax separates and slabs off the board from moving it,(usually on the rails) resulting in those tacky spots you talk about. Secondly if you get a little wind blowing over the hotcoat, besides from getting bugs & dog hairs you get this tacky orange pealed surface that you have to sand off. It seems that your getting a good kick, but your wax is leaving the board and winding up on your tape line, or the floor. Once you hotcoat, don’t move the board. Best to just use UV with cat. Do the board let it kick to gel state, pull tape, walk it outside and bake it to a hard crispy shell. " http://www.swaylocks.com/groups/tacky-hot-coats-clogged-sand-paper
happy mcding? i never said i have a secret, or claimed it didn’t work for you. just stated what i read HERE and you freaked on me for it.
If your hotcoat is thick I’d reccommend to keep sanding and trying to get rid of the shiny surfafe until the board is all partially sanded, then sand as usual
If your hotcoat is already thin I would do another very thin hotcoat using lots of surfacing agent, this layer you should aim to completely sand off while sanding. In my experience very thin hotcoats usually require more Surfacing agent to not have any tacky areas. More surfacing agent can make the resin more brittle, but if you are sanding it off obviously it wont matter.
Either way, more work, more time. But even if it takes you more time and a bit more money in sandpaper it will be worth it to have a decent finish.
I havn’t messed up a hotcoat in quite a long time, but I have had my moments in the past, especially when I had a ‘supplier mixed’ batch of Surfacing agent without enough wax added to it.
So if what I described is what you did; then the only other possibility is that the waxing agent settledto the bottom of your can. What you described in your opening statement is not what you stated in your last statement. If you did as I described you would be able to sand the board. You would have seen the wax rise. The fix is another Hotcoat. The reality is that you only need one Hotcoat per surfboard. You would only do a second Hotcoat if you screwed up the first. The idea that every board needs a second Hotcoat is a Sways Myth.
thankyou livethemoment. It was premixed sanding resin, might pick up more surfacing agent and will take your advice.
mcding, i didn’t go into detail before on how i did my hotcoat because i’m just looking for a fix, not to explain my whole process. thankyou for the advice though.
So to be sure; I Am not ragging on you. But I am saying that somewhere in the process you screwed up on your timing. When I do a Hotcoat, I walk my board out into the sunlight and count to ten. One thousand one, one thousand two etc. then I put the board back inside and forget oabout it for awhile. Then when I think about it I go over and check the board to see if the wax has risen. Once I see that it has I walk it out into the sun and leave it until it is hard. There board sands every time. No gumming the paper. The cure is to make sure that whatever part of the process you didn’t do right; is done right the next time. You said you want a fix. I stated twice previously; The fix is to re Hotcoat the board. When the wax doesn’t rise your Hotcoat is basically lam resin. So it remains tacky. Another Hotcoat will stick and then the board is sandable. If you start adding extra wax you’ll just compound your problems. When I add wax to a quart of resin; I add a cap full at most. Put another Hotcoat on it and sand it. This is how it’s done. Otherwise do it any goofball way you want and don’t come cryin’ back here. Jeez! Lowel
The most common cause of a sticky hot coat that makes sanding difficult is over brushing the resin. Once a batch begins to go off the wax agent rises to the top. Keeep brushing and you disturb that film of wax, causing sticky spots.
And, there is no reason on Earth to do two hot coats. Do just one thick one if you have not mastered sanding, yet. Two coats wastes more resin than one thick one. Guaranteed.
for sure, thanks Sammy. the resin I bought was already really thick and to get it all around I had to brush it quite a bit and with a lot of pressure. the first few boards I made I only did one hotcoat and then I got on a thread here somewhere with quite a few people saying to do two, this board is the first I’ve done two on I wouldn’t be having his problem if I didn’t apply the second one so back to one for me
got it, will definitely take this advice for next time
oh, someone’s having a bad day.
bloody surfboards !
…when they say double hot coat, sometimes refers to the finish coat, like a gloss coat (a sanded one) not because you have a bad hot coat.
When those tacky hot coats occur, normally are on the bottom not on the deck.
-in this case: sand by hand with a block and coarse grit. add water with liquid soap. After complete all the surface, do it again changing a bit the direction of the passes.
Then start with the sander; first paper could be somewhat gummy but next grit would be good.
Sammy nailed it.
It’s OK to use UV in the Hot Coat.
Just use catylist to kick it, UV to speed up drying.
ok thank you everyone. got the info I needed
Reeeellllyy???
I’m definitely no expert but I did have one tacky hot coat with UV resin. The reseach I found in the archives suggested it was old sanding resin and the SA had settled. The solution I found was to start making my own sanding resin. I never had THAT problem again and it was simplier to just buy a gallon of UV lam resin instead of buying two cans.
also if you are using a Tinted hot coat you should definatly be using cat, to kick the process. even if you are using UV cure. just to make shure that everything kicks if the UV dosnt fully penitrate fully. Good Luck