how about some sanding questions?

General Discussion
1

Ok, finally bit the bullet and got a (cheap) variable-speed 7" sander. I’ve never used one before, but I’m really ready to cut down on my sanding time a little.

Anyone feel like giving a down and dirty first “real” sanding writeup? I found a few things in the archives, but mostly just tidbits and pieces.

Oh, and to make it more complicated, I’ll be sanding on my compsands which only get a single layer of 4oz/ on the outside, so my room for error is nil.

I was planning on getting the flexpad medium as my do-it-all pad, mainly to get everything flat and fair, and then doing any fine and finish areas as I always have… by hand. I have been using my 1/3 sheet craftsman sander for everything so far, and it is pretty tedious when trying to make non-flat stuff flat.

Thanks for any help!

2

Try this thread, best one I have seen for sanding (so far).

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=114478

JSS

3

you are going to wanty to get the yellow soft pad as well to work your rails, and to put that high gloss on. someone told me that it’s pretty easy to mess up there.

just my 2 bits.

4

power pad soft , try and hold it flat, and dont get your hands , hair , or shirt caught up in it.

5

Check the last thread.Herb

6
Quote:

I’ll be sanding on my compsands which only get a single layer of 4oz/ on the outside,

Its very important to get the foam nice and smooth. With only one 4 oz waves in the foam equals sandthroughs of the glass.

7

Quoted you back here, Herb, so as not to derail the other thread.

Quote:

You’re in for a suprize !

Take your time,the sander can remove material faster than you can see it coming.Make sure that you change you paper frequently,especially if you buy cheaper stuff.If you don’t change the paper frequently,the paper will bald,and rather than sanding ,it will heat up the area and then blistering,browning delam…what I refer to as a cookdown.

In a short time you’ll master the beast and can’t believe how long it use to take you to sand the same board.

My HF sander polisher came w/ a soft pad/medium pad set-up using velco type tech.These pads are good enough to do the job,not the best but it will work.

Also I bought the smaller variable speedster.A 6.5 amp or something like that.The larger 11 amp seemed to be overkill for surfies,but still useable.If you bought the lighter/smaller one like mine,then you got it with the hoop handle,I particularly didn’t like it so I converted it over to a standard side handle.Try the hoop job and if you like it great,if not get back to me if you can’t figure out how to convert it.Herb

Thanks Herb, great stuff!

Yeah, I got the smaller one, very light and easy to handle, seems like it should do the trick just fine. As for paper, I use the pricey stuff from home depot/lowes, the “cuts 3x faster, lasts 3x longer” stuff. Seems worth the extra money, and comes in pretty color-coded flavors so I can differentiate the grits easily.

For some reason, I have had better luck with my 1/3 sheet sander by never using anything coarser than 120 to start with. You suppose that will continue to work with one of these sanders? Or should I get some 80 grit? I’m thinking I could probably do less damage with the 120.

How did you use the stock soft pad? Do you get velcro paper, or did you stick something on the pad so it could release from the stickum used to stick the paper?

8

J-

You did good, a variable speed sander will make your life much better. I agree with the others on the medium for flats and a soft pad for rail detailing. with a little practice you can make sanding something to look forward to. Recently I’ve switched to 6" pads from SurfSource.net. They relabel a popular autobody supply line (can’t remember the name) of pads that are like $17.00 each for either density. If you use 6" you can get 2 handcut discs out of one sheet of paper with some small ding repair size rectangles from the scrap cuts. I use cheap fabric spray glue from the $1 store to put them on the pads. Try to find a source locally for 100 pc. pricing on 6" rolls of the “gold” or yellow color preglued discs for $28.00 mas o menos. I’m buying my 320 grit that way. Your sandpaper costs will go way down. Also give the hook and loop disc from Harbor Freight a try with the scotch bright pads slapped on on top of the velcro. Results are a uniform satin finish on an epoxy gloss.

Tom S.

9

Damn that’s some great info there tom!

It looks like the pads are like $21.54 on surfsource, but at %50 less than the other pads, I can justify getting a couple.

I sure love sways.

10

A piece of old fleece or what I use is thin/light felt…anything rather flat and fuzzy/cloth material will do…you know ! what will stick to velcro…You can either glue your sandpaper right down to the felt or cover the felt as I do with a thin coated canvas,(old blue jeans will do)to give you a surface you can get paper on and off easier and is more durable.Always remove the paper when it’s warm as to not cause damage to the surfaces of your pads.

Now,back to your pad(s),it’s a hard rubber backed 7" pad ,covered w/ a 1/4" eva foam(blue or yellow) w/ velco on top of that…? correct ?

Then there’s this 2" approx. slice of soft polyurethane foam disk looking thing…this disk of soft foam converts your med pad into a soft pad,just put the fuzzy side down on the velco and …VOLA ! A soft pad !..repeat step one to use standard papers on your soft converter.Hope This helps.Herb

11

$17?

I think i paid 30 or 40 for my power pad at tool depo!

12

Oh yeah,

100 is a good grit…I usually start w/ 80 or 60…but at times 40…by no means am I suggesting to use any grit larger than 80…the courser grits can real cause some major damage as well as headaches.

13

That’s some good tips Herb! Canvas or denim is what these newer pads I’ve been buying are faced with. I keep an old worn smooth piece of 2x4 around that I warm my pad up on with high spd. spin so I can get that old crusty piece of 120 off the pad in one piece. Once in a while I take a heat gun and go after those piled up layers of paper backings, makes the pad look and feel like new again. Thanks!

Tom S.

14

I checked my 2006 price book and it is $17.95, if you go to the online info it is posted in retail $$ not wholesale.

Tom S.

15

…man, here some tips

dont even touch the rails with a heavier grit in a softpad…I mean, nevermind what told you, softpad in the rails is a no no

whats a heavy grit for the rails?

answ.: 240 - down

(also, if you need to sand the rails with heavier than 240…man, you screwed in the H coat…)

if you will use a softpad anyway(yellow power pad) in the rails, well, go with 280 - up

and be very careful

slightly touch the rails

this is the trick: you need a super soft ferropad to sand the rails unevenly BUT in 4" size

so the grinder weight “push” or “flatten” the pad so it adapt to the rail shape perfectly

this is the only pad that you can work firmly with the sander

without distorting or wheeling the rails

-ALL the heavier grits in the hot coat should be worked at a “slightly touch”, not heavy pushing the tool

-other tip:

if you finish by hand,

YOU SHOULD use always one grit lesser than with the sander

I mean, if you finished with 220 for ex., you should go with 240 or 280 by hand

this is very important if you stay in the H Coat or double Hot coat or gloss

-if you need to go heavy with the sandpaper, you should go 2 more up grits to finish without marks.

with this method you never have deep wheelmarks or hand sand scratches

never

only the sandpaper “normal” marks

hope that help something

16

Yup !

But I perfer 240/320 grits w/a follow-up of 400 sometimes.I use primarily Norton wet/dry paper or a Canadian brand aluminum oxide precut/preglue.The al-oxide works good but burns out fast.

If my surfaces are fairly clean and flat,I usually start w/ 100 grit, a lite buzz over the zits only,and go straight to 180…

…Nice thing about 180 it’s course enough to cut with,yet fine enough to rubout with.Herb

17

I think I read in some thread here that a soft pad is not the best of things as it won’t cut through bumps but ride over. Ever since, I’ve been using a medium or (even better) hard pad and results turn out better. Also, try to work always the opposite side of the board (I mean not the one nearest to you) as it will help to keep the sander flat. (For those of you who, like me, have some sort of back problems, I suggest to wear a dorsal belt while doing this as this move is especially bad…) I have also found lighting to be of utmost importance: a bad lighting won’t let you see shiny bits or shadows. I usually sand outside and wearing shades is a good idea to avoid being blinded by the sunlight reflecting on white boards. (BTW, tinted boards are easier to sand for the same reason…)

18

It depends on how clean your surface is as to what pad application is used,Sometimes a softy is all you need for the most part,other times…something in a medium pad,but not to hard,If it’s to hard of a pad(other than for grinding boxes/plugs,etc.)It tends to bounce around more,and conforms less.

Like my pads,I have a variety of lighting,but for sighting the surface for sanding ,especially fine finish sanding,a duel 2 or 4 foot floresent light, a foot or so above your head height,one in front and behind you.Have them on switches so you can change up the lighting.For sighting fine surfaces this is King.Herb

19

God I hate sanding…its my achilles heel of board building!

Monitoring this thread with much interest.

DAMN YOU WHEEL MARKS!!!

20

Hey Herb,

Here’s the Softy that I made and how I made it. Sounds like the one you were describing. Works great on curves and cost me about $9. I bought a cheap 7" hard disc from HF then some 2-1/2" foam from an upholstery shop. Not all foams are the same. I made sure I got the really soft springy stuff. Attached the foam to the disc, cut it with a fine serated knife, and glued canvas from a bank money bag to the face. Glue-up with 3M Super77 spray glue. I use the standard Stick-E stuff to attach the paper.

I really like it with finer grits on the rails.

BTW, Anaheim Foam and Fabric on Euclid has a great selection of foams.

[pic taken down]

[EDIT]

Okay, here’s the pics without the scarry knife trick.