I'm not very scientific about the way I add my additive F. I made up a 12 oz batch of RR CE the other night (8 oz resin + 4 oz hardener). I have the little glass jar of additive F from Foam-ez. I added one cap full. When I do a hoat coat, I'll usually add about 1.5 cap fulls. I seem to recall that Greg L. suggests 1% for lam coats, and 2% for hot coats. Does anyone have any rulls of thumb based on cap fulls?
Nothing?
Are you guys going to make me dump a bunch of cap fulls into a dixie cup until it hits the 1 oz mark, so that I can figure out the number of caps/oz? I don't want to waste my add. F. Someone has to know this.
Ask Greg directly. Send him a PM.
I'll send him a PM.
I got the idea of using cap fulls from Greg's Epoxy 101 video. He used a different sized metal conainer, however, and probably doesn't bother with the little 4 oz bottles of additive F.
Here is the bottle that I am talking about.
http://www.foamez.com/resin-research-additive-f-4oz-p-539.html
If I did my little cap filling experiment with water would I risk contaminating the contents of the bottle?
Hey Swied. I asked a similar question a while back, it seems this additive is a “ball park” kind of stuff. Where absolute accuracy is not an issue…
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/rr-kwik-kick-addditive-f-questions
A cap full is a little more than a jigger squirt. I prefer the jigger squirt over the cap full.
No science...just make sure you use it on the hotcoat.
It’s just an expensive pool toy…
Actually it's 16.5643 cc according to my atomic clock......................
Actually it's 16.5643 cc according to my atomic clock......................
Hey Resinhead…
I’d guess you’re pokin’ fun at my responce to swied’s post… I’m ok with that, you have a good sence of humour.
I hope you never have to deal with an un-cured laminate…
It’s a drag when the board’s shape looked so good…
Some times chemicals play sneaky trix on us… It’s nice to know the perameters of such chemicals and additives.
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I'm not very scientific about the way I add my additive F. I made up a 12 oz batch of RR CE the other night (8 oz resin + 4 oz hardener). I have the little glass jar of additive F from Foam-ez. I added one cap full. When I do a hoat coat, I'll usually add about 1.5 cap fulls. I seem to recall that Greg L. suggests 1% for lam coats, and 2% for hot coats. Does anyone have any rulls of thumb based on cap fulls?
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I have a 1 quart can of Additive F. The cap is aprox 1 1/4" wide. I use 3/4 cap full for 15 oz of resin. I strain the additive F through the strainer pictured. I use F on the Lam and "Hot Coat" . Temp matters......Big time!
Un painted blank with clear resin you can use more F.....
Additive F will not change cure times.
Ahmmmm- rather than go through all that with the cap, how about a 'don't raise the bridge, lower the river' type solution: use a cheap plastic measuring syringe as shown in the link below, 1 fluid ounce is a little less than 30cc, 12 fluid ounces is pretty much 355cc, so for 1% you'd put in 3 1/2 ccs ( 3 or 4 would be close enough) , for 2% then you'd go for 7 ccs and so on. And then you're not trying to mess with half-capfuls and all that.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2096&familyName=Epoxy+Syringes#
hope that's of use
doc...
on my pint can of add-f
it says
1 ml for every ounce of catalyst?
is a ml =a cc?
anyway i use way less than a cap of F
maybe 1/8 cap -!/4 cap
to a 12oz batch.
I feel these are successfully sandable and glossy…?
when I put in too much f I seem to get a more cloudy result.
a cap full is a lot.
I’d say a capfull of the pint size can is about
8 or ten cc
and in a 12 oz batch
only 4 oz is catalyst
that would prescribe
4cc…
I get away with less
conserving f is a character trait
I developed having a deep seated
fear of running out…
…ambrose…
lately i have been using it as a finish for wood boxes
it works great and is super durable
and makes the wood look great
threough the thick finish.
[quote="$1"]
Hey Resinhead........
I'd guess you're pokin' fun at my responce to swied's post... I'm ok with that,,, you have a good sence of humour.
I hope you never have to deal with an un-cured laminate..
It's a drag when the board's shape looked so good....
Some times chemicals play sneaky trix on us.. It's nice to know the perameters of such chemicals and additives.
[/quote]
No i wasn't making fun of you..Just that accuracy really isn't super important with this stuff...Actually making fun of Swied
I had a bunch of syringes that I got from an old neighbor who is a veterinarian. I had them around for measuring small batches of resin/hardener or for any repairs where I might need to inject epoxy into.
I had the exact idea of using it to measure my Add F as well … doesn’t work. I think the xylene in the add F melted/dissolved the rubber grommet on the plunger and it just seized up.
Hi Sweid -
Just looking - I'd say that cap is about 15ccs.
I have the bigger can so I can't check. I'd be happy to mail you a plastic medicine cup and/or a syringe so you could measure it accurately or you could get a feeding syringe at the local drug store.
Stingray is filtering out some of the solids which might be an important part of mix? I'd heat that can and try to get the solids (not wax according to Greg Loehr) back in to liquid form as part of the original blend.
"Temp matters, big time". What's the temp issue about?? I'm about to use my first gallon of RR 2070 with Additive F and need to start learning details quick. Thanks
I can take a joke just about as well as any seal can. Just don’t turn your back.
Anyhow…
I sacrificed two cap fulls of additive F, and figured it out. My son was on antibiotics recently, and we had one of those medicine syringes left over. It turns out that two cap fulls from the 4 oz bottle equals about 3.5 ml.
If I’m mixing 12 fluid oz of RR, then I will need about a 1% dose of F which is 3.54 ml.
It turns out that 1% is almost exactly two cap fulls. It looks like my old unscientific method was right in the ballpark. I’ll just keep on doing what I was doing.
Ray, straining may not be the best idea…
I get solids in mine that make it hard to pull up in to a syringe (sans needle) when it is stored in cold temperatures.
To resolve this I fill a bucket with a little warm water and let the can rest there for a few minutes before use.
I just assumed that it was something in prticular separating out and that it needs to be in for the mix to be right…perhaps the solids are just like chunks of ice floating in a water jug…all the same composition just somewhat coalesced.
Sidebar:
you can get syringes from veterinary/pharmacy shops…just explain what you’re doing if they give you stinkeye.
1cc == 1ml
If you heat up a glass bottle of additive F in warm water be sure to open the lid a crack or you may hear a loud pop and have a mess on your hands. Never used the stuff after that.