How to build a stubby (dimensions, rockers etc)

Hi all

After watching crystal voyager ive become transfixed with the board Richie West rides in some of the scenes. Im planning on making a similar board for my next project and was wondering if anyone knows the nose/ tail dimensions, i know that the general size for a Greenough stubby was 5’ 10’’ by 21 inches so i think ill keep it original and go with that. I was also wondering what kind of rocker the board has as i’ve heard these kind of boards dont do so well in australian waves (any one have some suggestions on rocker) ??? 

Tim mason builds a replica called CV-bullet. check his site for dims. It was a 6'3 I believe.

Go see RW in Coff’s Harbor. He still has the template for that board…pretty sure  he said it was a Greenough template. 

This pic was from 2006. He was shaping and surfing regularly. 

I just read the rest of your post...

What do you mean by "australian waves"?

If it were me building it i would go with very low tail rocker like 1" or a hair more. and 3 7/8" nose rocker. The shorter board would get rolling in punchy beach breaks and reefs, but for some rolling point wave that is not as powerful, I personally would want a longer board

See if Balsa will respond.

astevens" i watched a video on michael cundith, and he mentioned something about the tail rocker being quite flat on the californian versions, and being higher on his current stubbys out of byron bay. I checked out tim masons boards and their super nice, pretty inspiring stuff. 

I drew up a design on aku shaper, dont know if its similar to the greenough stubbys, but i was going for a liddle-esque shape. What you guys think ? 

 

No. Too busy.

Hey mate, unless you're 100kg, trim the width down. The outline looks a bit too "front heavy" if that makes sense. Bring it down to 17nose, 21 1/2 mid 15ish tail. As for rocker, go to surfblanks and grab a 6'6'' kneeboard blank, and get the M06 rocker( standard trimming rocker ). You could also get a 7'0'' minimal blank, but you'll be cutting down a bit so be careful about cutting too much off one end, keep it even, and the rocker should be ok.

 

 

This is a roughed out egg, 17n x 20 1/2ish x 15t. Not a stubbie, but if you're going over 6', maybe an egg might work for you?

BTW, this was cut out of a 7'2'' FF blank, so the rocker is quite flat, which is how it was meant to be, and it'll have one fin, and it won't be light weight. An aquatic ford fairlane!!

 

 

This is the nose, i think short, wide, flat boards benefit from this kind of bottom in the nose, rolled, to stop pearling. This is my first rolled bottom though, so im no expert.

 

Hope it helps in some way

Heya beerfan

Just finished the board last week and have been glassing it up, ive been working on a couple boards around the 23inch mark and they’ve been going real good, plenty of experiments to come ! you might be right about the wide point being to far forward but ill see how it goes, next one will move it back to middle. I kinda figured the lines between a stubby and an egg are quite similar so i went with a 6.6 out of a surfblanks 6.6 M8 fish blank i think it was called, tried to get the flattest rocker possible but i still wasnt happy with the curve on the final board, will have to take to your idea of getting a 7,0 blank. Took a quick pic last week, will post one when its done if your interested [img_assist|nid=1061244|title=egg|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75][img_assist|nid=1061244|title=egg|desc=|link=none|align=center|width=640|height=480]

also im new to the whole shapin thang, what technique do you use to get a rolled bottom ??? 

stubbies have alot more going on designwise than just a rolled bottom. you have to know what shape you want the hull to be, the hull depth and placement. I think of it as the correlation of the rail line to the stringer rocker. this sets everything up for me(ie. s-deck, hull depth, hullplacement, etc.). everything about these designs are interlinked.

 to get a rolled bottom, I plane more strokes closer to the rail than the stringer if that is what you are asking.

22 5/8" is too wide for me on a 6'6. I am making a similar stubby(lammed it today) that is 6'8 17 7/8 21 3/4 15 7/8. You may like it that wide though. I do not go that wide on a board that short unless it is a stand up "velo" type board. my personal preference. also, with that wide tail you might try a hint of vee in front of the fin or som side bites for when the waves get steep. good luck

Yeah astevens i heard their was alot going on with the stub, was just trying to get a general idea of the outline and general dims as i really like their shape and curves… will keep a full fledged stubby for when i have more experience. i also think the difference between 1-2 inch is quite marginal but i dunn no. my current 23inches’’ are working real well so if my brain says it works---- it works ! haha, always willing to try new things though so im defintaly going to try my next project around the 21 inch mark, narrower nose/ tail etc.

This was the final product board number 3# pretty pleased with it, just got a liddle flex fin delivered from the states so that’ll be a trip trying it out !! 

[img_assist|nid=1061249|title=egg glassed and ready|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

wouuld really like to see your finished egg when its done also ?

 

 

Woah, very nice!!. I do love a bit of width myself, but i've weened myself down to 21 from 22, still wide but not too wide, however i had no issues with my 22'' wide keel fish!.

 

Rolled nose on mine isnt meant to be a "hull", just a bit of "belly" in the nose. Basically i had a very thick nose, so i did a very "steep angled cut from the nose, and did a second rail band off that, and blended with gauze/shaping screen. Im sure there is a very good thread in the archives, but im not sure whats its called.

 

 Let us know how it goes mate, looks fast and fun!

As Joe Bauguess says shorter, wider BETTER FASTER… !!!

 

 

Also with your roll how fair back does it extend from the nose ?

Generally, you want the hull to start at the nose, peak at max depth under your front foot(middle to sligthly forward from middle), and slowly fade to flat behind the fin witha hard edge.

You may not think 1-2 in. is a big change, but it not just the widepoint that changes, it's the outline curve that changes too.

ah k got it, and yeah didnt think of that your probably right.

i took the board out today in blown out waves felt prettty strange, i think theirs to much tail for just a single fin and my experiment with just a single concave hasnt seemed to work, the vee on my other board is wayyyy better. im gunna chuck some side fins in it today see if that helps, maybe some better waves will be its true test 

how deep is your fin and how far up is it

its got 9 inch flex ( has very litte base) , and the fin is at the top of the box

Check out the latest edition of Pacific longboarder. There is an article on Michael Cundith and the original stubbie that he developed with George Greenough and Ritchie West back when they all lived at the Ranch.I am riding one at the moment. I am 54 yo and my stubbie  is 5'10. Awesome board. Check out the MC surf website.

yeah thats where i was drawing my inspiration from. this is a sweet little video too on mc http://vimeo.com/27572137