Yes I was told to sand with a lower grit dry sand paper like 120 or 150. Then move to 220 or 320 then if you want move up to 400 or 600, all dry sand paper. I still get some scratches I cant get out. I tried doing those steps then finishing it with 600 wet sand paper useing water. Is this the best ways? I was also told to use wet sand paper with water for every step. What is the best way to get all the scratches out without useing that polishing resin finish.
reputations have been built and destroyed, threads have devolved into flame wars, women and children have run and hid at the mention, all of this one issue: sanding technique
search the archives - if you dare!
once you are no longer told what grit to use, but you are the one telling what grit to use, then you will know how to sand correctly. keep at it! there are a lot of threads where people give all of their tips. almost everyones technique varies at least a little bit. everyone has their own ‘style’. you have the right steps - just have to master them. heres a tip - you have to know how much to take off with a certain grit and how much to leave for the next grit to take off. comes down to practice…
In a nutshell.
Best tip I’ve been given so far is how to hold the sander. More pressure over the center of the pad helps eliminate wheelies.
In the auto world everything is sanded down to 500, then you go to liquid compounds.
Long live the liquid compounds.
someone else said,,,,,,,, "When you think your done sanding with one grit, sand it some more."
the reason your still seeing course marks are because you didnt sand enough of the previouse grit.
ummm...ummm......yeah sand it down good....well...sand it...ok...got it....???? and sand some more.....
call me later...when yer done sanding.......it's not art....it's hard work........Stingray......
after you learn to sand we can talk about colors....but not art.....ok?
Making good surfboards is all about controlling pressure and abrasion.
as we say in drag racing............."don't sleep at the lights"!
and oh ya..........using the correct sand paper helps.
herb
Are you sanding by machine or hand? I find that the scratches I have mot trouble getting out is if I sand with the machine at a too high angle. You start sanding with the edge of the disc and that tend to leave deep scratches. The other culprint for me has been to remove all dust when changing grits. There may be grains from the former sandpaper grit in the dust, if this gets on the higher grit sandpaper you end up scratching it up instead of sanding it smooth. Other than that, just go with higher grits and sand until you don’t see any scratches from the previous grit. If you can’t get the scratches out, go down a grit or two or three and start over…
best trick is to do a cheater hotcoat and sand that 150 with hard pad keep it flat , and then full hot coat with well placed tape line so there is no mess and the hard edge in the back is not so huge, just right . start with soft pad slightly angled 320 400 for sanded finish and continue with 600 800 all dry for polish. top of the line sand paper, top of the line tape. no cutting corners. i use 1 sheet per side per grit. longboard 1 sheet per quarter board so 4 sheet per grit. i use 3m gold.
no need to start with lower, just harder to take the scratch out.
here the result on a couple boards i made.
yeah once over with 80 grit. then block it ( optional). finish coat then straight to 400 or 320 grit and its done.
oh yeah and sand it green. if you wait to long its slow . i use uv for sanding coat. and sand it straight away while its still soft. takes about 20 minutes
…if you sand it “green” you fuck up the board in many aspects; one is that you twist the board; you do not believe me? check the board in a leveled glassing rack previously (may be you find that your shape have not too much of an accuracy too…) then check after that sanding, more if you have hot weather.
ah actually thats a misunderstanding of english there mate. as you are sanding a green SANDING COAT. the actual lam could be weeks old.
nothing changes and my shit is accurate.
if at all possible ,
sanding is best avoided.
first rule; the little rocks
on the paper must be
facing down. after that
it’s a thankless job.
The better you get at it
the more critical you get
and want to sand more,
in hopes to finally get it right.
An important step to finish sanding;
stop sanding and either say,“thats good enough”
or the old favorite-“Thats perfect”.
There will be a critic to show up magicly
to point out the flaws. This unsolicited
critic could easily be your future self
older and wiser.
…ambrose…
I know a guy
that gives a piece
of wet or dry
with every new board
an’says g’bye.
paul, you polish at 400?
if you sand it with 400 and polish you will get a crappy finish, you need to go way up.
…hello mate, no misunderstanding at all; I have been doing and observing all types of glassing combos in these last 25 years in my wshop, and I tell you again that there s a difference.
I know that is a mechanical bond, but better to do it right after the lamination and then wait until no more green in both.
no louis thats not a poilsh. thats a fine sand with 3m gold. i go from finish coat to 400 freecut. then through the grits to polish. if you start with 320 its a lot more work as you probably know.
reverb with all due respect thats f%cken bulsh!t . huie himself told me to sand the same the day you fill coat and hes been doing it 50 years . but he didnt have to tell me that, its a no brainer. if you leave it too long the board takes twice as long to sand and screws up your paper faster. but maybe you like flushing money down the sh!ter.
Hi Louis, how do you do a cheater coat?