here is a board that was done that way without a gloss because it needed to look classic but be super light so all 4 oz and no gloss like a normal shortboard. it looks like a normal gloss, you cant tell.
most of my boards have second hotcoat/gloss but if needed for custom or whatever, its a good trick.
this here is a dark, dark situation to be in. I can empathize. I usually want to be halfway clear of my shinies at 180 and then have them about 90% gone by 220. there may be some low spots that don’t really come out until you get above 220…but those are teh corner cases…and that’s only my perspective/opinion as a marginal garage laminator and sander.
I think it was JJR that had a long post about his pad, paper and tool rotation as he progressed through the board…I think that’s one of the best posts on swaylocks.
I will try to find that post…in the meantime please consider these points:
stay flat - do not chase the shinies with the edge of your pad. you will hit weave.
light pressure - do not bear down on the pad to try to rub them out. you’ll scratch or worse.
higher grit, previously used piece preferred - greater margin of error, lower risk.
move around, but focus your efforts - too much attention to one spot risks overheating the epoxy which is a whole other sandtrap.
someone said it earlier in the thread…know how much to leave for the next grit. be methodical.
Is this the thread you mean ?
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/what-am-i-doing-wrongsanding-final-coating
that’s the method I adopted - I figured he’d know what was up.
In hindsight though , it’s a bit confusing to me whether he’s talking a bout sanding the hotcoat ( which I always assumed) for a sanded hotcat finish , or speed finish , or polishing the gloss coat - 80 grit sounds a bit coarse for that , but I don’t know anything.
pinny pinny,
sanding by hand make it bumpy, when you will polish it, it will look wavy.
when you sand with a sander/polisher and hard pad flat with 100 or 150, it really flatten the high spot so you can do your gloss, if you do a thick gloss, it will also look wavy so keep it thn but not so thin that it doesnt kick properly.
you can do a thick hotcoat tho so you have meat to flat everything up but if you do it too thick it will seperate, there is a fine line.
sanding by hand is only good for the rails, tail and nose.
buy a sander you will get a way better finish, guaranted.
my sander polisher is from makita, when you press the trigger lightly it will turn at low rpm and if you press all the way it will turn fast, it give me very good control if i am sanding the rail with a super soft home made pad, i barely sand by hand even on the rails, that machine really make it easier.
hand sanding with a good block and better technique produces flatter finish than machine. try machine to rough it out and block to finish, especially if glossing
block is flatest under lights .
excelent flat sanding block: scrap marble tile.
3/8’’ for high performance light weight
3/4’’ granitecountertop scrap for serious
pressure.have the water saw guy trim to
sandpaper length .
truly flat as can be expected…
to the point of too flat to sand
delicate concave but the greatest
for tuning crisp flats and edges.
…ambrose…
just a thought while putting on my shoes.
Stop sanding now!! Wax up and go surfing ! Sanding is a waste of time ,you just grow old and miss surf time! The finest finish on a surfboard will be gone after surfing it a few months. That perfect finish is for wall hangers, eye candy, owned by wanny bes’ that never will be!!
