okay i really need to sand out some bumps and stuff in the gloss coat, i am not going to be polishing it its just going to be a fine sanded finish, the gloss coat was needed to fill extra voids 
i think im going to start with surform to knock off the lumps and dripps i some howgot, then start with 100 grit then go to 180 then 220 then 360 and 400 is that good? after i sand it should i seal the whole thing with clear acryilic spay? :S or leave it?
Don't surform it, Huge scratches that wont sand out. Machine sand bumps with 100 grit, or use a sanding block if a disc sander is unavailabe. Next time try laying down a smooth gloss coat and make sure that your hot coat is fully sanded even. If you don't wand dirt to show much then do an acrylic seal coat, and matte it out with a scothbrite pad
Good luck
slow down there chief!
knock your drips down with 100 grt with a block or sanding stick (make one)
then you could block it with 220 then step to 320 then 400 then 600
the board should have been smooth with the sand coat
new guys sometimes have to do double sandcoats (shit happens when your new at it)
you should have blocked the sand coat before the gloss coat.
when you get good at sanding the sand coat and the gloss goes on clean
then you can start with 400
kk thanks guys no surform, its my first board yo ucant expect it to be perfect 
yeah and if you have a light touch, soft pad and a variable speed sander, you can do it all dry and not look like Popeye the Sailor Man at the end, from all that blocking and sanding.
Important that you keep moving the pad around to avoid sand-throughs, arc cutting and burns.
iv been sanding venier and plywood for like 5 years i shouldent have trouble with the sand throughs and such im always moving lol
Howzit noob, I always used my hardest powerpad with 320 to smooth out any bumps on the gloss coat or if it's really bumpy start with 220 but use the light touch an try to float the pad and not gouge the finish. Gloss resin does not fill any low spots and when you sand the hotcoat you want to end up with a nice smooth finish,makes for an easy gloss coat and rubout. Aloha,Kokua
well it was nice and smooth throughout just i dont have an extremly dust free environment its outdoors in a tarp shelter so i got some bumps where clear hair or dust has made its home 
thanxfor the info i will start with 320 and see where it gets me
Howzit noob, Dust will not cause bumps, just zits. Have you even started rubbing out the board,if not then the bump/zits will go away as you go through the process. I have to say I have never seen bumps from dust,zits but ot bumps. If you have rubbed the board out and there are bumps then it isn't from dust but from the sanding job before you glossed or a bad brush job when you did the gloss. Aloha,Kokua
im sure it was the brush job then, but its not really the brush job itself its the brush… its left its mark in the gloss coat aswell lol gota love those natural hair brushes. thats how i got 1 or 2 bumps the rest was my fault
noob
lets see it
The secret to glossing is putting it down correctly so that you almost don’t have to sand. This is how Kokua can start sanding with 320. Wash the board and throughly dry it. Doesn’t matter if it’s sanded 80 or 100. Use gloss resin and cut it with SA and sytrene, a Purdy or other good brush, go rail to rail and then nose to tail. Don’t lift the brush until the end of the stroke, and use lighter and lighter pressure as the resin spreads out. Pull off the tape towards the resin as soon as the drips slow down. Kokua posted this advise years ago, and it’s never failed for me. Keep in mind also that good lam = good hotcoat = good gloss and not much sanding for the whole process.
Wash the board???
never!!! if so , with what???
your best bet is to sand the hot coat, wipe with fresh paper towel lite with acetone, skim with tape a few times and
shoot the gloss.
walk away
Got the washing tip also from Kokua years ago. Made more sense than pushing dust around or trying to pick it up. I use a drop of dishwashing detergent to about a gallon of water, clean sponge. Hose it off real good both sides. This gets rid of any
sanding dust hiding in the finboxes, leashplugs, etc. Blow off the excess water and make sure
it’s really dry before you gloss. Don’t dry it in the sun so that water spots form. I use dishsoap also when wet
sanding, as it cuts the surface tension of the water so that it doesn’t
bead up so much. And, I also wash my boards after polishing to remove
any compound left. I used to do the blowing
off, acetone wiping, and tape thing, but washing made a big difference in the
amount of zits after glossing.
I wash too with water+soap with scotch brit before finish coat (polyester) on cured fresh sand epoxy. I find it’s realy efficient, my finish coat is better (less sand needed) and it’s better for my body than use solvent.
Sorry for my frenglish
i wash after sanding with a hose and also between every grit from 400
I wash every night wiether I need it or not. And sometimes when i feel naughty....I wash my seals too.
WOW!
I guess I missed the boat on the rinse cycle
I do rinse while steping through the sanding durring polish
sorry I just dont trust the soap before the gloss idea, no matter who’s idea,
but still much respect for Kokua
my gloss’s are laying out just fine
Howzit kensurf, You don't need to use much dish soap but the soap gets rid of any oils from your hands. I use a scubber/sponge and then just rinse it really well. Let the rinse sit on the board for a minute or so to see of there are any spots where the water seems to not stay due to contamination and those are spots to be either rewashed or use some acetone then rewash and rinse. The soap won't do any harm as long as you rinse the board good. I also use a nozzel on the hose to make sure I get al the sanding dust out of any air hopes that the dust got in to.Aloha,Kokua
blowing off the water doesn't sound good to me. It's likely that you get compressor oil on your board. thats even worse than oils from your hands.