Well steve the old argument goes…you know how it goes…and I’m sure you’ll argue it…but that guy didn’t have a chance of making that wave with the stance he applied. Very few can make it. Can count 'em on one hand actually. But that’s no excuse for burning someone, and of course the angle makes it look worse than it is. Probably the only time I’ve seen him drop in on someone. He’s a very respectful guy. Sorry it was the only thing you noticed in the vid. BTW He dominates it through his surfing not because he burns people, and if you knew him you’d agree. Sorry for trying to add to the post.
ahhh jeeze man dont be so sensitive
your addition to the thread is cool and so are the boards you are talkin about …in fact I wouldnt mind one myself…
I am sure Casey is a great bloke and respectful and all and maybe it was the camera angle and the amount of zoom distorting the perspective hell he probably didnt even see him there he was so far back.
However if you look closely you see casey’s spray hits the dude fair in the face. I dont know if he woulda made it but there was no chance of doing it with your mate breakin the wave in front of him.
I wont harp on about it any more but can you honestly tell me that if you were the guy in the back seat you wouldn’t have considered youself burned?
Maybe I am a sadist but it still makes me chuckle to see him get swallowed in that wake.
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I won’t argue Steve…it ain’t cool any way you slice it. My last wave at Burleigh heads (you know the one I was gonna savor in my mind until I could come back) I got burned pretty good by one of the salty locals. In reality, I took off too far back and most likely wasn’t gonna make it but that bloke definitely sealed my fate. And yeah…I wasn’t stoked. He stinkeyed me to go figure. So I agree. That being said how’d ya like the clean wake coming off that board in the tube? Lol
The fin we use for those is the TK flex
Funny thing about zaps is both Cheyne and Geoff consider them still valid, but old tech. What they are working on now is considered and updated zap and more user friendly zap. I still love those first generation zaps though…I think they have beautiful lines. I don’t think a prettier single fin was ever made that the one in the pic and Cheyne’s old Pink railed board.
Been enjoying reading your comments Solo man, I also have also been a big fan of Geoff Mccoys work and Cheynes surfing.
About 10 yrs ago my surfing was in the doldrums riding narrow thin bent boards that lacked any real feeling, after a lacklustre surf in the Byron area Dropped into see Geoff in his factory. he sat down and chatted to me for about an hour an a half then lent me a coule of his boards to try. Rode his 7 ft single fin and and loved the feeling of volume again and continuous flow, it allowed me to surf back foot again without the sink, also alot of stability and forgiveness. I learnt that thickness aint a dirt word and i embraced his designs. I have had well over 20 boards from him since then of all sizes and shapes and havent been let down in what i order and for the waves that i want to ride it in. The nugget is a great fun and very high performance wrapped up in a simple looking shape that most people dont understand, they think its for beginners but the design offers a beautiful rythm and flow surfing that is rarely seen these days. These boards have to ridden thick to work, I see other shapers try to shape similar things but thinner to appeal to the masses but they dont work the same.
Stay stoked
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Been enjoying reading your comments Solo man, I also have also been a big fan of Geoff Mccoys work and Cheynes surfing.
About 10 yrs ago my surfing was in the doldrums riding narrow thin bent boards that lacked any real feeling, after a lacklustre surf in the Byron area Dropped into see Geoff in his factory. he sat down and chatted to me for about an hour an a half then lent me a coule of his boards to try. Rode his 7 ft single fin and and loved the feeling of volume again and continuous flow, it allowed me to surf back foot again without the sink, also alot of stability and forgiveness. I learnt that thickness aint a dirt word and i embraced his designs. I have had well over 20 boards from him since then of all sizes and shapes and havent been let down in what i order and for the waves that i want to ride it in. The nugget is a great fun and very high performance wrapped up in a simple looking shape that most people dont understand, they think its for beginners but the design offers a beautiful rythm and flow surfing that is rarely seen these days. These boards have to ridden thick to work, I see other shapers try to shape similar things but thinner to appeal to the masses but they dont work the same.
Stay stoked
Amen. Thinner is so rarely better it’s almost not even worth considering.
Here’s one off the Rip curl site…
Tombstone have you ever come across some longboards in the Zap style made by SKY surfboards in the 80’s ?
A friend of mine had one in Raglan and it was an interesting board, he was about 110 kg and used to just hang in the pocket on it, tailriding, very forgiving he could blast through all kinds of heavy stuff. I’m making a kind of interpretation of one at present ( tunnel instead of starfin, thick tail with an uprail, lots of noselift, piggy planshape, flat tail rocker
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Here’s one off the Rip curl site…
I own this poster…ha Ha.
I know your the go to guy for info on the spacecake. I have a 6’2" spacecake that is awesome to surf. I’ve had it for 2 years. Had a great session on it today at Ocean Beach SF. Turned on the speed, flew by a section, hit the lip and drove down the face to one of the best full rail cutbacks i’ve had in a while. Fell in love witht he board all over again. Unfortunatley after all my babying of the board and caring for it my buddy drops it on the asphalt while loading up his board on my car. Smashed the thin sharp rail and the tail pretty bad.
I figure it might be time to replace the ol’ spacecake with a new one. Wanted to ask if you have ridden the EPS spacecakes that Jake has been shaping. I love the board I have now but a more durable version may be nice. I am worried that I will lose some of the feeling of the board if I go to eps. Eps is floatier so I either end up with a thinner board or a floatier board. My current board is already floaty enough. Any thoughts on the eps spacecake? What size spacecake you ride? If you or anyone you know is every looking to sell a spacecake in not too bad of shape, let me know.
Thanks For Your Time
–Ric–
i love my ol’ spacecake, too…right on, man.
There is so much I want to say here but I have to keep it short. First, I want to thank you Cheyne for responding and giving us an opportunity to communicate with you. I watch the surf WCT pro-tour. Kelly Slater rode very short flat wide fat boards for the first contests including the Fiji. He himself said that he would have liked to ride the pod, which he loves, but the judges will underscore for that. So he rode the closest thing possible, squash tailed Flyers and Swallow tailed Flyers (yes they make swallow tailed flyers that are tri-fins, not just for quads now). I percieve that surfing is about selling selling selling today. To whom? To kids who have not aquired wisdom and foresight, also most adults are the same. So they to make it today you have to have the moves, the cool name, and the pretty face. The face is a big part of it, and you have to look young and “cool”. Also airs are a big part of surfing today. This prostitution of surfing began in the 1980’s and the change of surfing from the IPS to the ASP because certain very famous legends wanted to make surfing a money maker, a sport. Surfing media today and the big industry enslaves in a certain sense today, to consumers and the pros. They use these kids when they are hot, when they get old they slowly dissapear. Surfing can be a sport, but surfing is primarily an ART, at least for me. I imagine and speculate Cheyne his friends and MCCOY saw this happening and stayed true to themselves. The comments about world titles has this answer from me; SO WHAT? it isn’t absolutely real? To me Cheyne’s asthetic is incredible in his style. (Ihave so many vidoes of Cheyne: Blazing Boards, Beyond Blazing Boards, Surfer’s journal Terry/Cheyne and i only bought it to watch Cheyne. I was overcome in one small section of him on a yellowish/black zap in hawaii getting barrelled and (I know he did it on pupose) he was so unpredictable in his turns that where lightning fast and smooth and stylish and just beautiful. That effect makes it look fun and exicting). Surfing is too subjective to be judged perfectly, so as to Cheyne’s choice of equipment, good on him. He was on a voyage, an adventure, a quest, learning, feeling, experiencing. I have loved surfing since I was 9 days old. My mother took me to a beach every week where i played in tropical tide pools. Out side was a reef and waves. I remember back till I was 1 and a half years old. I remember looking at the surfers (late 1970’s) and my older cousin was skating and surfing and got me hooked. The only “sport” I have ever liked since I could remember. When the remote occasion of surfing on tv came I was glued and I saw what was going on, I understood it. Then an incredible thing happened, I saw a sunkist commercial a blond guy surfing and I saw something I didn’t know happened:first that the wave made a tube as it broke and that a person could travel through it. Little did I know that that man was Cheyne. I started to jump up and down and was yelling in exictment. i knew then for sure one day i would stand up on water. And little did I know that the place my took me to the beach was a world class surf spot: chatarras Puerto Rico=Pipeline mixed with g-land. I moved to Florida when i was 4 and learned here but have travelled. I learned to surf my first wave(down the line on an old small Wave Tools twin fin my friend let me borrow for 5 minutes, i had a body board which taught me wave selection and wave dynamics. Then I got a late sixties banged up hull bottomed single, and I was so small but went so fast down the line. my first few sessions where with no fin, then I figured the fin box thing out. Bought it at a garage sale for 15 bucks. I have ridden from mid sixties mals(real 10ft 50/50 rail ones that you have to soul arch to bottom turn it front side or top turn back side) to old Ben Aipa Stingers, plastic fantastics, old sigles 1970’s, lazor zap imitations from the early 80’s, mid and late 90’s boards. Then in the nineties, I never got a potatoe chip, stayed with the late and mid 80’s boards. I knew it was not right. I finally got one in 99 and have ripped on them, doing every thing except the spin airs, but can go air reverses, chuck the tail at will, but I surf because I love waves in and of themselves, and wish to stay on them and draw beautiful lines and feel them. Riding them allows one to be with a wave as long as possible since just swimming in waves the waves pass you by. Forgive my immodesty and boasting, but I rip. I have a potaote chip, retro 1989 board from Rusty as well the 89’ but nothing is like a nugget. I am a good surfer and the nugget makes it better, but more importantly, FUN like a grom again.!!! Singles are incredible. You can run them straight and not drag the side fins(they are not there) or you can go down the line. The trend is asthetics. The new boards look like sharp angular jets or arrow heads, but they lack in many things, not just the flotation part. I can do the sickest manuever on a chip, but it is a numb feeling. I catch less waves. Watch a full WCT contest and you will even see slater scratching and not catching everthing. I dont have the resources to keep fit enough to drop in late everytime. Nuggets cut through chop like hit butter, and you will never try a bottom turn while the board stays flat because you are riding a bigger wave. they always turn, rail to rail. The saying about that nugget seems to have been shaped by the waves of the ocean through Mccoys hands is either a coincidence or I have been copied if I have been copied shame on that person, because I wrote that in a blog years ago. The bottom is genuis. The board adjusts to the wave as the wave changes and as you change your position or direction on a wave. If I could have only one board it would be the nugget. In bigger waves in comes to new life and one day I tried something, I went straight down crouched( I am a minimalist in my style, I train my legs isometrically and dynamically, and my upper body) waited, faded a tad and did the hardest bottom turn I could do on a well overhead wave I shot up vertically and I was going so fast my whole board came out of the water, I could have come back down but i just wanted to feel it and I fell back down on my back and the wave passed me by. i was stunned by the bottom turn by it self, its my favorite manuver. Those having trouble. I think the biggest problem, if you have a tuflite is that your fins are too small. You need the MC500 futures which are only are available if you buy it froma surf tach dealer. if you cant get them try to get the biggest future fins possible as close to 5 inches in depth. 500 stands for 5 inches in depth. Too small and you wont have speed but will bog. I have done the tightest quickest turns that started as vertical top turns and i Carved it all around back into the foam in one quick movement, and I was thinking, it seems impossible for a board this thick to do it. Dont be decieved by the boards thickness. Go as small as you can but with good flotation and put big fins on it. Pancho Sullivan’s or some FAM II’s (Future’s Fins) if it is a surftech. Ride his real boards tri or single, the gull wing has lots of drive and the star fin from Cheyne has lift and variety and drive. Singles are stable in the tube, no out running a good tube.
You Have to remember Cheyne was not in Rabbit’s, MR’s, or Shauns age group, he was way younger. He is Tom carroll’s age group. So his 4 runner ups in a row to MR as a kid are first places to me. That’s for you hater’s out there to know who criticize Cheyne. Ignoramouses. Plus his experimentation help lead up to the nugget, because he had the guts to experiment while in top contests. He learned a lot. I am sure there are many close friends that have learned from him.
I DID NOT KNOW THERE IS A LEARN TO SURF DVD FROM CHEYNE. TELL ME SHANE HOW TO ORDER ONE AND I WILL GET IT. I spent the beggining of this year in pacific coast central american waves for 3 months, and I will do the same this coming year again with my nugget. my one magic board. For that dude who broke his star fin, yea I know that material. I have broken other types of fins of that material. Easy solution. crazy glue it back together, use plenty and wipe of the excess. it will be stronger there than originally. No problem. people have told me a million times, crazy glue dont work there. They havent tried it and they are negating it. trust me use crazy glue, squeeze it and the excess will come out the side and smooth it out with a tounge depressor or something. Use your minds and imaginations. Think for your selves!!!
As for how the nugget looks. Who cares if they think it’s wierd, a fun board a fish, a board from the planet Mars, or that I am cheating. Do they feed me? Hey? No! A weak man cares more about opinions outside his mind, a strang man KNOWs his opinions are right and are the only valid ones. I mean this in this context. Out of humility we must always listen to other’s to learn. I am not afraid of being wrong, with out that, no body can correct me so I can learn. live life, it’s too short.
Cheyne, love the part of your on Blazing Boards with the ‘Men with Out Hat’s’ song “I like”. Beautiful, subtle, powerful,and stylish. I replayed it till it wore out. I imagine what it must have been like seeing a star out in the line up passing me by on one of those waves (they where watching) in such awesome neon wetsuit with world class style. voiala!!! I hope the Virgin Mary blesses you and you will be in my Rosaries and meditiations everyday of my life for happiness health and protection. Ciao. From a Puerto Rican surfing artist to the best surfer in the world. Thanks Cheyne for letting us enjoy your work and your waves. It edified us. Adios.
unrequitted love.
Dug it all.
Hi Cheyne,
I’ve been scraching through this small thread on Lazor Zaps and Nuggets and I would dare to say that it is one of the best I have watched. I’m a really fan of Mr Horan since I met surfing in my life, and I could say you were one of my reasons to had started in shaping stuff. My eagle eyes (as I suppose every good shaper has at least one) always paid attention to your performances and your equipment. I feel sorry about not have enough English skills in '86, 'cause I had the chance to have a small talk with you during the Hang Loose Pro Contest '86 at Joaquina beach in Florianopolis, but I just could exchange a few information about the designs you were riding up then. I’m posting two pics here: one, we having a talk in '86, and another of a Lazor Zap pic from Surfing Mag, 1981. I would appreciate if you could make some comments on this design 'cause it looks pretty amazing and very modern in relation to what most people are riding nowadays (thrusters).
Regards.
