Looking for Delamination Repair Advice

Hi all, 

Got another board here that I’m trying to get back in the water. This particular board has a huge delaminated section that runs from the nose to about half way down the bottom of the board. I removed the major loose fiberglass pieces. 


the bigger section of delaminated fiberglass still remains on the board, it barely pops up… if I push with my finger it only moves down probably less than a mm, so is there something that can be done or do should I reglass?

Btw, if you look toward the bottom of that picture, you can see a line running across the board, that’s where the delamination stops 

thanks in advance


Whoa, that’s a serious de-lam, makes me wonder about the quality of the glass job.  Hate to put a bunch of remedial work in only to have more problems as a result of a bad glass job.  At any rate, I can only tell you what my experience is, which is that the only fix that has worked for me is remove the glass and re-glass the entire de-lam area.

I was hoping to get some epoxy resin under the delaminated area but it’s super tight between the core and glass.


The shaper has 40 years experience but his specialty is balsa wood boards so you could be right… at any rate I don’t mind relaminating the entire section but I’ll probably lose the logo and I don’t know color matching so I was trying to avoid all that but at least It’ll be back in the water.


The glassing isn’t always a reflection of the shaper, but it does carry his logo.

If you remove the glass carefully, you should have the logo intact. You can scan it, and print a new one. I had kinkos scan mine for a few bucks.

The key (for me) to color matching resin is take your time until you get it right or reasonably close, THEN add hardener.

Would you recommend using acrylic water based paints to color match? Someone suggested doing that, at least to get it a shade closer to the original color, I know it’s not going to look as nice as tinting but I already have my hands full so I don’t want to add another level of complexity, but I plan on learning it eventually.


I meant to reply to your comment but I think I replied to mine instead. Thanks for the logo tip I think I’ll try that 

Can’t tell much from your pic but;  you could have cut the whole section out, glued it back down and then glass over with 4oz.   Read the “Swollen Stringer” thread.  You probably picked at it too much to do that.  Either way, you still have to cut it out.  Use tape to lay out a uniform cut.  Then cut along the inside edge.  I would start along the lap at the rail.  The rails usually are solid.

Oh man! I didn’t even know thst was possible but it would make life easier, and I wouldn’t have to color match it. So just to make sure I have it right, after removing the original glass, I lay a thin layer of resin and glue it to the core, followed by another layer or 4 oz glass?

either way I’m checking out the thread you mentioned. 

Thanks a million.

That’s pretty much it.  You may want to use 6 oz tho.  If you do a tight cut you will have no gap, so the glass over the top lays down nice and tight.  Have done many that way.  Cutting at the rail makes it easy to put down a pin line to cover up the seams if necessary.  Go easy pulling the glass and you may not pull foam.  As long as the pulled foam sticks to the glass the chunks will go back down in the holes they pulled out of.  If you have to fill anything use liteweight Spackle.  You won’t see it thru the deck.  Sometimes when I do them like that you can’t even tell I did anything.  Lowel

Thank you, my dude. I will give that a go and hopefully report back with some after pics. 

Update  So most of the glass came off cleanly but only on one side, the other side is bonded pretty good. What’s the consensus here, pulling the whole thing or gluing as it is? 


If it is solid and you have no fear that the already bonded glass will stay down;  I would attempt to put laminating resin under the loose glass and pull it down tight with packing film or blue painters tape.  After it has set good(overnight) clean it up with the sander and put a piece of oversized glass on it.  Go 3 or 4 inches outside the repaired area.  Sand the old glass really well to insure the new glass sticks.

Thanks man, you’re a life saver. 

Watching this thread, hoping to hear / see some follow up…

I think I might try this if I had a vacuum setup but would be afraid to try otherwise.

Hoping for some inspiration

Hi- it’s going great but had to put work on hold, it’s been raining non stop In Florida for two weeks. 


I was able to glue the glass back down… filled the white section on the nose with resin/qcell… sanded everything down… glassing soon… the white section will get a layer of acrylic paint to color match as close as possible. Won’t look pro but won’t stand out so much. 


here’s a few pics that I took a few weeks back and I’ll post more later

Did u weight it also or just the tape? Looks pretty good in that pic

I also weighed it down with some paint cans. I’ll post some pics later of it without the tape, it’s solid. So now  I need to fill the gaps that the dremel tool left when I cut the glass. I’ll probably mix some resin and qcell and spackle it in there then sand.

What I’m actually wondering since it feels so solid is if I can just glass the rails instead of the whole delaminated section. I don’t know if that’s recommended, maybe you or someone can chime in.

I have done that with a little patch (glass just the edges of the piece I glued back down) but have no experience with anything so large. My gut feeling is that it would be ok to do it

I was concerned about the weight and balance of the board and using less glass will obviously keep the weight down.

Just glassed the section by the nose. Need to glass the rails hot coat and done. The color matching job looks like ass but oh well… first time so I’m not going to be too hard on myself