Hello everybody,
did anyone know which blank (producer) Bing use? My 9’9 Pintail Lightweight have a big cut on the nose and I want to fill in a piece of blank, which have the same color and texture as the board. I’m also looking for 60z Volan glass and the chemicals. Where can I get a piece of blank and the other materials?
thanks
Robert
Remove damaged area symmetrically to right and left side, replace with wood nose block to same outline, no volan, just clear glass over nose block. If done right it will look original not to mention bad ass.
That does look badass. But I think he only has a ding on one side of the board. Yet he’s showing us two angles of one ding?
I understand, A one sided nose block would be less than bad ass, prolly more just ass. The top pick of gash I think is bottom of board with sketchy sanding of the gloss in my opinion. Symmetry with nose blocks would be important , so violation the non dinged side is necessary for the fix.
By the question I am guessing the owner has not worked with dings before. To match the volan is pro repair. Special boards that ride well are special no matter how the ding repair looks.
Is this a wall hanger???
A Bing lightweight, that looks that good.
Good Golly Miss Molly!
Wall hanger, that somebody, opps…
Answers :
Clark foam circa 1968.
10 oz. Volan cloth, one layer with laps both ways
Suggestion :
That board is a prize.
Brewer had the Pipeliner while at Bings.
And guess what… photo
Have a pro fix it!
Is that an original or one of the New pintail Lightweights produced by Calvani and team?
yes it’s only one ding, the photo show it from the top and bottom side
no it’s not a wall hanger, I surf this board every summer at the Atlantic in Europe
it is 7 years old and shaped by Matt Calvani. Did anyone know which sort of blank he use. I would like to repair it as good as possible.
Why is the type of blank necessary for the repair? Whats up with the gloss or fiberglass wrinkle on the bottom side of rail? Upper left part of picture
…hello; first almost all the new Bings are machined. Mostly US blanks in US.
Regarding materials:
-you need UV lamination resin and hot coat resin
-several pigments to try to match the color; white, green, black yellow and blue. But in my opinion that do not work for what you have in mind so go only with white.
work:
-sand all the splinters and bad glass; be careful with the foam and glass besides.
-after all that check all with styrene monomere to see if you still have cracked glass etc
-put the foam or and the paste (resin+silica+pigment) wait couple of hours; sand it down and sand over the area until you hit the wave.
-Laminate the cloth. Use 2 layers and UV resin, then after just kicked, add one more.
-hot coat (with brush) and sand (a big area). Then smooth sand with a hand block and a 100 grit. UV resin just kick it out under the Sun a bit or with normal resin just 2 hours.
-with an airbrush (tape that cutlap) paint over with your matching color (in reality do the match color a slight lighter in color if not you ll have a darker shade in the sides of the repair) very light coats.
-gloss coat that big area (if you do not sanded a big area you will hit the color and you will not obtain a fade, a blur) with a brush of course, try to get all uneven strokes; UV kick it a bit in the Sun or with normal resin let it 2 hours.
-Start to polish with 320 grit and way up to 1200.
-Buff out with paste and polish liquid.
The type of blank is necessary because I would like to fill in a piece of blank in the cut. I think when I use the same type of blank the optical result will be better than I use any other material to fill the cut.
At the upper left part there is nothing, it must be a reflexion of the light.
Thank you very much for your detailed description and sorry for my bad English. It is not my mother language.
My idea for the repair is, that I want to fill under the glass a piece of blank. When the color of the blank is the same as the rest of the board and when I take two layer 60z volan glass with the light green tint, I think it will be as result the same color of the board. The photo doesn’t show the light green tint of the volan glass that is processed. And my intention is to realize the best result because i love this board and I’m very proud of it.
the photo show the bottom side
Hi shaolin. I’m not sure why you would want to insert foam into that little slice. You will probably need to make it even bigger to do so. Also, when you place your patch over the repair with volan cloth you will see the overlap. Volan cloth does not have green tint it laminates with that shade do to its chemical manufacture. A very talented repair guy can make the ding invisible so you should find somebody if that is your goal. However, that is a really simple ding repair and doesn’t require a lot of time, money, and material to get your board back in the water. Mike
…hi, I still maintain my previous advice; even more now that we see clearly that is a tint.
As mentioned, I understood pretty well your intentions and believe me is not possible; is not a matter of what foam you can put there.
Do you say that you loves the board; so follow the Rooster advice or if you do not trust in anyone there or do not have availability to a shop and wants to make it yourself, do in the way that I described. If seems too much, do step by step and we ll try to help you at distance.
In fact with a tint your idea will be even worst in the cosmetic department; the repair will be the protagonist and that s a no no.
Is not possible to make an invisible repair with a tint.
Okay Mike but what shall i fill in the slice. There is no material and I think I can not patch the glass over the slice without nothing inside or?
I live in Germany and here is nobody who can repair this invisible. People who can do that live in France.
and this is what I found in the internet about 60z volan glass:
“Volan is used for a classic style lamination on clear layup surfboards. The green hue of the Volan treated cloth adds a vintage style to your boards layup while providing slightly more strength then standard 6oz E-Glass.”
The board have a light green color and it’s realized with 60Z volan glass.
You are right, the overlapping is a problem
If you want the cosmetic result then take the board to the best repair or glassing operation you can find and let the pros do it. When compared to what your own time is worth from your day job you’ll come out way ahead.
The main reason to learn ding repairs is in anticipation of doing a lot of them.
attached pic of vac bagged board with Ten 0unce weight volan reinforcement center strip. I don’t believe it could possibly provide more strength because of the Volan treatment. My appreciation of the green color was for large fiberglass layups of boats and such, the green allowed the glasser to stop work, return the next day and not be confused where they left off. Two layers of volan looks darker than one layer. Not sure when it was ripped off and started being used in the surfboard industry.
Hi shaolin. I would sand and rough up the entire area around the ding. Use a piece of tape on the bottom to make a resin dam. Fill the crack with a resin chopped fiber slurry(or just laminating resin). Let it cure. Pull tape. Sand it back to the true curves. Tape around the area on both sides. Wrap a piece of 6 oz around the slice and wet out with lam resin. Let it cure. Sand it back to true curve. Retape. Paint sanding resin over the repair. Sand it as smooth as you like. You could even buff it out to a nice shiny ding repair. Surf it! There are lots of ding repair videos on you tube. Mike
