Click the link… Paul http://www.surfnwsc.com/
Click the link…>>> Paul – WOW… do you think he was totally under the (Greenough) influence, or what??
…It’s an amazing board… Where is that kind of creativity now…Oh yeah, let’s narrow the width by 1/8"…add 1/16" to the nose rocker…and we’ll do some rad graphics…Voila, state of the “art”… http://www.surfnwsc.com/
…It’s an amazing board…>>> Where is that kind of creativity now…Oh yeah, let’s narrow the width by > 1/8"…add 1/16" to the nose rocker…and we’ll do some rad > graphics…Voila, state of the “art”… I heard Laird Hamilton invented Bob McTavish AND Morey-Pope!
Click the link…>>> Paul this board definitely seems to be the one PG thought it was-he described it to a “T”
Would it be better to leave this very unique board in it’s present condition (finless, partially sanded paint and all) or sand off all the paint, replace fin with something appropriate (Greenough/Liddle style flex) and attempt some sort of restoration - maybe an opaque white bottom/rails?
Would it be better to leave this very unique board in it’s present > condition (finless, partially sanded paint and all) or sand off all the > paint, replace fin with something appropriate (Greenough/Liddle style > flex) and attempt some sort of restoration - maybe an opaque white > bottom/rails? Why doesn`t someone just go to the source… the man who intimately knows the most about this old board, as well as the original inspiration behind it? Contact Bob McTavish!
Why doesn`t someone just go to the source… the man who intimately knows > the most about this old board, as well as the original inspiration behind > it? Contact Bob McTavish! I would love to know how to get a hold of Bob… If anyone knows please let me know… I have checked out his website and there is no contact links or e-dress. I’m sure someone out there could help. I have asked Drew Kampion and others to help but no luck yet… Rob
Would it be better to leave this very unique board in it’s present > condition (finless, partially sanded paint and all) or sand off all the > paint, replace fin with something appropriate (Greenough/Liddle style > flex) and attempt some sort of restoration - maybe an opaque white > bottom/rails? it looks surfable to me!i am surprised the tail isn’t all chipped up.PG and I are already talking about making a 7’4" one like it.in fact it’s the board he thought it was-
What a freakin’ SPACESHIP!!! Makes Doc’s US0 look like a Model T…I bet your feet hurt like a mother after a few bottom turns on the thing. I love the negative rocker in the flex portion of the tail. A soon as you get to planing speed, it would go to dead flat (no over-flex). Newbs
it looks surfable to me!i am surprised the tail isn’t all chipped up.PG > and I are already talking about making a 7’4" one like it.in fact > it’s the board he thought it was- Back in 1974-5 my roomate was a guy named Dave Lloyd (he used to sand for Greg Liddle and took a lot of photos for him; the one with all the feet pushed through the hull on Greg’s Website). Anyway, he had a 6 foot long 24 inch wide hull that either Dave or Greg had scooped out into a flex tail. As I recall, the flex extended almost 12 inches before it transitioned to foam. The rest of the board was a standard hull but had a bit more roll in the bottom than Greg uses now. I rode that board for about 2 years here in SD and it was a blast. There was a peculiar way of surfing it to get the most bwang for the buck…On a straight drop, just before you hit the trough, you had to do this little check turn. Just a little fade in the opposite direction of the bottom turn. Kind of like winding up before you throw the ball. Then you’d hit the turn. The result was that instead of turning 90 degrees, you’d be turning 120 degrees. It would load up the tail so every thing was twisted and coiled until you let off the pressure. It would slingshot you into a normal rail turn acceleration. It worked best on gutless walls common at medium to high tides here at the secret testing grounds. I’d give my left nut to find that board… Newbs
I would love to know how to get a hold of Bob… If anyone knows please let > me know… I have checked out his website and there is no contact links or > e-dress. I’m sure someone out there could help. I have asked Drew Kampion > and others to help but no luck yet… Rob – McTavish Surfboards 101 Surfcoast Highway, Torquay Vic 3228 Tel: +61 (03) 5261 0131 Fax: +61 (03) 5261 5432 Email: Web: www.mctavish.com.au –
it looks surfable to me!i am surprised the tail isn’t all chipped up.PG > and I are already talking about making a 7’4" one like it.in fact > it’s the board he thought it was- I’m going to restore as close as i can to the way it went out the shop. I believe it was red paint with a sanded finish. The fin is going to be the temp Paul G sent me ( Thanks Paul ) i hope i can get the same flex out of the fin using 7 oz volan i have a huge roll of it. I would think i would get better flex with more layers of 4 oz like Paul wrote on the temp… Good luck guys on making a 7’2" sounds pretty Cool!!! Rob
What a freakin’ SPACESHIP!!! Makes Doc’s US0 look like a Model T…I bet > your feet hurt like a mother after a few bottom turns on the thing. I love > the negative rocker in the flex portion of the tail. A soon as you get to > planing speed, it would go to dead flat (no over-flex).>>> Newbs You know the one thing i was blown away by was the 9 1/2 lb’s it’s so lite!!! for a board of 1970??? I hope to ride it in a few weeks before we hang it up to just look back at… Rob
Dale Thanks I sent Bob a little note and a link to my site i hope to hear something soon… Thanks Rob>>> McTavish Surfboards>>> 101 Surfcoast Highway, Torquay Vic 3228>>> Tel: +61 (03) 5261 0131>>> Fax: +61 (03) 5261 5432>>> Email: >>> Web: www.mctavish.com.au>>> –
The tail of that thing, kind of looks like the nose of the stealth bomber…
Click the link…>>> Paul For some reason the tail reminds me of something I’ve seen on sail boards - a flexible piece of something attached to the tail.
Click the link for a look at a kneeboard which must have been “under the influence”. http://www.vagabondsurf.com/KneeboardDeeperVisions.html
I’m going to restore as close as i can to the way it went out the shop. I > believe it was red paint with a sanded finish. The fin is going to be the > temp Paul G sent me ( Thanks Paul ) i hope i can get the same flex out of > the fin using 7 oz volan i have a huge roll of it. I would think i would > get better flex with more layers of 4 oz like Paul wrote on the temp… > Good luck guys on making a 7’2" sounds pretty Cool!!! Rob The important thing to remember about the flex fins used in arc or square tails is that they should be made out of a 1/2" thick panel and the thickest part of the foil should only be 1/2" back from the leading edge, and then break sharply into an almost flat curve running through the trailing edge. It “looks” like a slow foil, but it has a lot of power off the bottom and the thicker leading edge allows the board to track up into the pocket without sticking. Roundtail flex fins should be made out of a 3/8" panel and have a much sharper leading edge, the thick portion further back (3/4") and a more gradual curve through the trailing edge. Both concepts work better if the flex runs about 1/3 of the way down the fin, and the tip isn’t too flexy. Soft tip flex only is not advisable. 4 oz. volan panels produce the best fins, but are very expensive to lay up…especially when you need 1/2" of thickness. My 30+ years wallowing in itch dust hasn’t been wasted!
I’m going to restore as close as i can to the way it went out the shop. I > believe it was red paint with a sanded finish. The fin is going to be the > temp Paul G sent me ( Thanks Paul ) i hope i can get the same flex out of > the fin using 7 oz volan i have a huge roll of it. I would think i would > get better flex with more layers of 4 oz like Paul wrote on the temp… > Good luck guys on making a 7’2" sounds pretty Cool!!! Rob 7 oz volan will be fine…especially if you are already holding a roll of it! The advantages of 4 oz is that the flex is a little more “steel-like,” and it can be tuned with a little bit more precision. Also, 4 oz fins last a bit longer before “flexing out.” The truth is 95% of the fins Greg Liddle and George Greenough have made over the years are out of 6 or 7 oz…cost being a major consideration. It takes 70 layers to build up a 1/2" thick panel out of 4 oz.! I would love to lay up a few 4 oz panels and make some high-end flex fins out of George’s and Greg’s and my own templates, but they would end up being very expensive, and I can’t imagine there would be much interest out there for them. Can’t wait to see the McTavish flex tail when it’s fully restored. I remember the day they brought it into the MP retail facility, unsanded and untuned. There were also a batch unglassed shaped McTavish blanks and a few of his finished boards as well. Like being in a candy store!