Just thought I’d start an old fashioned build thread…I miss 'em on here! Picked up a custom ordered blank today from Mitch’s. I ordered it last Friday afternoon and got the call on MONDAY afternoon that it had been glued up and delivered! I was shocked. Two days. Unbelievable. The blank is a US Blanks 9’8"Y, Green(high density) foam, reverse rocker, with a 3/4" red cedar stringer and 1’8" orange foam on each side. Let the fun begin…
Tenover,
I think you have talent and look forward to the build. What is reverse rocker? Looks like continuous curve to me. Bitchen glue up on the stringer! Mike
Thanks rooster…Reverse rocker means they “swapped” the nose and tail around in relation to the rocker table. On another note, when I glass this board, I will be doing the “dipped” look, or at least I want to. I’m a visual learner and was wondering if anyone knew of any video out there that showed how to get this effect…I’ve found a few threads on Sways, but I can’t seem to grasp the process in my head. So basically, the front 3rd of this board will be a solid, opaque orange, and the rest of the board will be totally clear. I’d be STOKED if someone could help me out with learning how to do this, with PU resin, for this board via a video or pics…Here’s a pic that shows the effect I’m after…Though I won’t be using two colors. Just one opaque color for the front 3rd and then clear…
They do NOT flip the rocker around, it is that the tail rocker is greater than the nose rocker, flipping the stick around makes for a rocker that meets too far forward. The reverse rockers keep the tail rocker concentrated closer to the tail, with a long planing rocker in the nose, US Blanks will turn the stick around though if you were to ask
OK, that’s funny, Jim.
Tenover, I posted that same question about the dipped look and got some good answers. Somewhere back maybe 18 or so months ago?
Thanks Jim…My bad.
rooster- I know you did…I read your thread, and another one that adressed the same question. Really good info, but I just can’t seem to visualize the process. So if I were working with an opaque orange and then clear, I think I could lay the orange down in a line across the nose and get the orange layed out with no problems. Since I’m also working with clear, would it not “muddy” up if I poured the clear resin on the board and glassed as normal, squeegeing(sp?) the clear reson ONLY “up” TOWARDS and OVER the orange resin, and using only new/clean squeegees for the clear once they pass over any orange?? Uggghhhh…sounds complicated, but I’m getting closer to seeing it happen in my mind.
If you are using opaque, then it’s a simple process. If it was a tint like the one in the photo, it’s a bit trickier.
Lam and hotcoat with clear resin. Sand the hotcoat. Tape off the nose where you want your color. Apply pigmented resin on side A. Sand edge of rail where the tape was. Tape off and do the same on side B. Sand pigmented coat to remove uneven spots. Apply sealer/clear coat of your choice to entire board.
Again, this is for an opaque color job, and NOT a tint as pictured, above.
Thankyou jim!. I wondered about that. I'd heard about people flipping the blank for pig style boards.
Oh, and im keen to see this board!!
Thanks SammyA, I know what you’re saying, but that’s not the effect I’mgoing for. It’s done in the lam. I’ll be doing full cutlaps on the board to keep it nice and clean. From what I understand, I think, I should tape off the deck of the board as normal for a cutlap, and then have two batches of resin ready to go…One orange and one clear. I will then pour the orange resin close to the line I want and lam the board from that point to the nose with a couple squeegees, being sure to not cross the “line”, but only moving TOWARDS the nose. Once that’s done, I will then pour out the clear resin and lam the rest of the board as usual with new squeegees, making sure that if I pull clear resin OVER the existing orange, I will either clean the squeegee or use a new one from that point on so that no orange residue is left on the “clear” squeegee. I THINK that’s the process …And I’m assuming that pulling clear resin over the already orange lam, that it won’t muddy the orange…??
Or maybe I should just say “I’ll be doing orange tint and clear”…Can you explain that process by any chance? Thank you.
So, which is it? First you say opaque, now you say tint. Two very different things.
It’s going to be clear and opaque orange. Done during the lam process.
It’s going to be clear and opaque orange. Done during the lam process.
If it really is going to be an opaque color on the nose, you do not have to do it during the lam. It seems you are making an easy thing difficult for yourself.
The only thing you need to remember is that the first color to hit the board wins. How straight your line is depends on squeege technique. Most of those “resin dips” do not have a perfectly straight line at the point where they join. You could get a straight line by using two layers of cloth. Four or even two ounce for the first color with a taped line razor cut where you wanted to end it. Then a finish layer over that. A four ounce lap line practically disappears. It’s alot like doing an inlay with clear layer or layers. PS --Went back and re-read your description of what you intend to do; You are correct in your method, Show us some pics of the shaped blank if you get a chance. Especially the profile.
Thanks McDing, and I am defintely NOT after a straight line…I like the abstract look, and even like the small band of “mud” between the two.
Yeah I figured you weren’t after straight. On that kind of color layup my preference is the abstract. The method of using pigmented resin was what guys used in the 60’s on noseriders . Primarily so they were sure they were on the nose, It became fashionable and distinguished a noserider from other shapes,
Do you need a tail block? I've got some redwood and ebony...and other stuff..ect.....
no cost / sways deal.......Ray
Thanks for the offer Ray, but I’m not a fan of tail/nose blocks…Much appreciated though. Now, if you have 12yds. of volan glass you’d like to donate, well now, THAT’S a different story! ;)
Hey Mr. 10 — I’ve got a half roll of Volan glass…30 inch JPS Great White 8 ounce cloth… I’m willing to sell yardage at my cost, which was pretty reasonable since I bought a whole roll. PM me if you’re interested.
What was the insult on getting US Blanks to run that for you?