New wooden board

First let me say that I’ve enjoyed all the articles I’ve read on hollow baords on this site and hope I can turen out something interesting as well. This is not my first board nor my most radical idea made. Here’s some history:

http://www.eastcoastsurf.com/…viewtopic.php?t=6047

http://community.webshots.com/user/billjoat

With those out of the way, I’ve started another board after a several year hiatus. Since balsa is too expensive for my everchanging hobbies, I went with local pine and cedar. I generally start by selecting a “clark foam” blank plan shape to go by and jump right in. This one more of a 10’4"A rocker design with a 9’8"S shape. Will it surf well? Who knows. But I’ll enjoy making it.

Planed 1x6 pine planks down to 3/16" with 3/4" cedar between, epoxy(West) together, 2" 'glass tape on the inside, then glassed my rocker to the bottom.

The top is going to be the opposite: 1x6 cedar with 3/4" pine

The board is going to be @10’0-3" or so and hopefully less than 50 lbs. Here’s a bottom shot:


After seeing the size of the pics , I’ll post others elsewhere. I can’t seem to be able to dial mine in to a usable size. This shot is adding the cross sections. Since I go about things in odd ways, I can’t get used to making the internal frame first the the outide board. So I go freom the bottom to the top. Epoxy putty, clamps and 8 lb lead blocks do all the work.

try this site here for larger pics. I’ll go more in-depth later on the captions.:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560828441eEeLIw

Looks Like it will be a buet, looks like a lot of wood though whats ya target wieght?

Plans for the rails?

Anyway looking foward to seeing the progress keep the pic a coming.

Hope you don’t mind if I put those inline:

Very cool.

Looks like a fun project. The bottom and deck, at 3/16", are pretty thick. This is going to be a very heavy board. I would encourage you to maximize volume to compensate for the weight you’re going to end up with. Also, you may not need to glass the outside of the board at all, depending what technique you use for your rails, especially with glass already on the inside. My 6’3 cedar fish, with 1" solid cedar rails, and 1/4" skins, has no glass inside or out, and is rock solid. It also weighs about 18 lbs if I remember correctly.

Good luck!

Pat

The thickness is mainly due to the first board I made several years ago. 9’6"x24"x3", 3’4" stripped top and bottom, random pattern of cedar, spruce and pine. Strips were 3/32" thick and right about when I was going to stop sanding, I sanded thru !!!2!!! spots. Made a purty fire though. I plan on planing this a little(hopefully not thru). The rails are probably going to be mostly cork. I have a nice partial roll of 1/4" cork; easy to sand and shape. I’ll probably make some sort of rail like I’ve seen somewhere, where the rails are built up before the deck is applied, then the deck will cover the upper edge of the rails to be later shaped down to them. Ought to make a good, watertight joint.

cedar+friction= easy fire.

Sounds similar to the method some of the guys on “tree to sea” forum are using for the rails. I don’t get it yet, I’m going to stick with the alternating layers of cork and ply (a la Paul Jensen) until I can figure out a better way (been thinking about this for about three years and haven’t come up with anything yet.

Thinking about it I must get round to posting my latest.

I like the ala Paul Jensen style, yet I’ve never been able to get my thin ply to bend real snug around the front. I would, and I hate to, assume, my plys are not thin enough. Thats why I went with the mostly cork which is a rather different look .

Quote:

Looks like a fun project… My 6’3 cedar fish, with 1" solid cedar rails, and 1/4" skins, has no glass inside or out, and is rock solid. It also weighs about 18 lbs if I remember correctly.

Good luck!

Pat

Got any pics of it. It sounds interesting…a cedar fish. Actually a fish was going to be my next board. Since I’m 6’4" @225 lbs., anyone got any great ideas on what might be needed to float my bulk?? I started to cut out the stringer set up tonite. Its 7’ long with the string thickness, from front to rear at: .75,2.25,2.75,2.25,2.125,1.75,1.375,1.00…all inch measurements; with the nose @5" off the bottom to start. Why??, it looked nice! I thinking somewhere around 24" wide with a twin fin set up(glassed on).

Not bendy enough? I hear you brother! I’ve just had a bit of a disaster with the rails on my current project. I tried to cut and re-position a section of rail at the nose as It somehow got stuck down wrong (must have been tired), anyway the section is refusing to lie flat and snug now so I’ve been had to indulge in a little creative clamping to hold it while it sets. Hopefully it’ll be OK to carry on shaping tomorrow.

An idea tha I used on the last board I made was to score the inside face of the ply with a stanley knife every 6 or 7 mm to help it bend, that worked. his time I just went with continuous layers of 4 mm ply cut at about 20mm strips, which at first seemed to bend very nicely into the compound curves at the nose, but obviously didn’t like being taken off.

All the cross pieces epoxied down and the whole sub-structure drilled

Let me first say that I am unable to figure out how to post large nice pics without going over the size limit. Therefore, I’ll continue to post them on webshots.

I’ve done quite a lot of work on my board since I last wrote. Made the deck, joined, epoxied, 'glassed the backside, and bent it. These pics show, since my boards are rather thick, that I wanted to bend the board a little to help when I epoxy it down.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2658549480052211309JqzuXO

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2834418950052211309vGASsq

Here is the deck being epoxied down. I have very few clamps however much heavy lead blocks;8-10 lbs. each. @ 375 lbs. total.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2374067910052211309uFNbgV

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2407002500052211309RxBimB

Then just a side shot. I’ll probably plane both the top and the bottom a bit to smooth it out a bit, crown the deck a little, and remove some weight before I start on the rails.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2065957060052211309SMJTTl

Then just a pretty shot propped up against the wall in the garage.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2448998850052211309DbPLWy

Once again, I sorry for not being able to get my pics to co-operate to the right size to be shown here. Maybe one day…

I’ve done considerable more more since last time. Starting with pic 100_0118, it shows that I didn’t like the way the nose looked so I cut it off and went instead with a cedar nose. Still working on it. After 3 fins, still can’t decide which one I like.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560828441eEeLIw

Looking great Bill. About to start my next project… an 8ft hollow/chambered mal. My last project (5’10" hollow wooden fish) which i finished a week and a half back turned out to be yet another preesent for my son, who’s a good couple of stone lighter than me. I’ve finally got an idea on another rail method which I’m eager to try.

Quote:

Looking great Bill. About to start my next project… an 8ft hollow/chambered mal. My last project (5’10" hollow wooden fish) which i finished a week and a half back turned out to be yet another preesent for my son, who’s a good couple of stone lighter than me. I’ve finally got an idea on another rail method which I’m eager to try.

Always looking for a better/easier/different rail method. Whatcha’ gonna try?

Hi Jase & all.

I’ve started building my first HWS and will be using a rail method as shown below to help minimise the weight.

Apologies for the crap drawing but I’m sure you’ll get the idea.

Cheers

Rohan

It looks great on paper, yet “I” would have trouble trying to compound bend the 2 pieces of wood as stout as they appear to be.