Note to Swaylock users, don’t ever come to Queensland at any time between September and December. You may time your visit to surf the nice sand bottom points sitting in a pub… It has been over 1 month now of straight onshores and nothing over 2 foot of windswell. Never mind though though it’s like this every year and it could go on like this for another 2 months with no reprieve.
Salvation lies at a backbeach somewhere down the coast, as long as the swell isnt as much from the north as the wind as it’s not only protected from the wind but the swell as well…
Not a whinge, just pure boredom setting in. All boards repaired, new fins foiled nothing else to do…
From November through to march …fin making , surfboard making , skateboard making and riding …the things that keep me halfway towards sane , here in Perth .
It’s always flat here in San Diego County. Just like in Queensland. All the swells miss us and head straight to Mexico or Canada. September through December is the worst time to be a surfer in Southern California. Maybe we’ll get some good surf up north at the Swaylock’s camp out in Big Sur.
I dunno man, I just moved out of SD and into the mountains, so a little SD fall-season surf seems pretty good to me right now. I’m jonesing like crazy, even if just for some thin-lipped chest-high autumn waves. Up here: no snow yet, but it’s starting to get pretty frigid (compared to So Cal). You’ll get some early NW swell pretty soon, I’m sure. Have fun, bro.
in summer Rhino …there’s still spring swell occassionally here at present. And the schoolies go back tomorrow . SO… waves to ride , fins to test …for now .
I have three wood skatey decks in various states of disrepair / reshaping …four , counting hicksy;'s concave deck that he used thr trucks off for his ‘hixtreme’ longskate .
So, if you remind me in another month or two … “chip , where’s the skatey photos ?” l’ll see what I can do …film for the camera , etc
cheers !
ben
meanwhile …I’ll see if I can find where the shot of my existing '80s/ '90s santa cruz respray and regrip is lurking somewhere in the depths of the chipper posts jungle here at sways …[this too may take time]…
umm not to sound like i am uping you one, but i don’t get to surf from october through march at the earliest every year.i get very bored and depressed.
I totally understand how you feel. Ask anyone in Southern California- this past summer was the worst ever. We had a good 9 week flat spell. I used the time to make a surfboard. Or try paddleboarding to stay in shape. I would go down to the beach with a 7’8" gun (my longest board) when the waves werebarely knee high. People would kind of scoff. But then I just went and paddled away. That way when the time comes that I need that 7’8" I’ll be ready.
Yeah I surf Straddie sometimes, that’s even a mess in a North Easter though. In these winds you are better on the spit side beside the wall to get out of the wind. That is if there is any swell of course.
OK when I say ‘NO’ waves I mean any waves that you can do a bottom turn on. I have been riding a Log Mal or Twin Fin fish to get my by and hitting the onshore days just to stay in tune. Nothing worse than an actual swell hitting and jelly legs, wobbly boot or noodle arms ruining what could of been…
I shouldnt complain really, the weather is great and sometimes just riding really small waves (I mean really small) is a huge challenge in itself. Just try and stand up with your feet in the wrong spot on a wave that mostly closes out and lasts 3 seconds… BLOWN IT. That’s my new mission, keep surfing and try to re-learn how to make the most out of bad waves. When it gets good hopefully at least 3 of the 6 cylinders are firing…
Oh and it was 2 foot (waist high) yesterday and people were running for their boards… So stoked!
I’ve seen 2’ ‘superbank’ on the cam quite often …people here would KILL for a wave that goes that far in summer !!
My mates from here , who live right on the headland there now , can’t believe how much fun they have …because they remember what it’s like here .
It’s all a question of perspective , I guess .
I can remember reading an interview with Joel Parkinson , where he said he is “TIRED” of surfing four foot Queensland righthanders . The poor dear. Pro surfers have it so tough , don’t they ?! [sarcasm used , for the humour-challenged]
I’ve seen 2’ ‘superbank’ on the cam quite often …people here would KILL for a wave that goes that far in summer !!
My mates from here , who live right on the headland there now , can’t believe how much fun they have …because they remember what it’s like here .
It’s all a question of perspective , I guess .
I can remember reading an interview with Joel Parkinson , where he said he is “TIRED” of surfing four foot Queensland righthanders . The poor dear. Pro surfers have it so tough , don’t they ?! [sarcasm used , for the humour-challenged]
ben
we can check it from perth , don’t forget !!
And , Josh … you COULD have had your moment of fame mate ! [See the bottom group of shots from this spread …Queenscliffe]
12:55pm update: Still nothing here - just a bumpy and weak 1’ line pushing through that looks like far too much effort.
8:40am update: Tim from Reef2Beach at Agnes Water reports that it’s a glorious day in paradise, but with no surf - there may be a little wave on the lowering tide. It won’t be much though.
8:30am update: Tim from Elixir Surfboards reports that it’s about as perfect 1ft surf as you could imagine. Light offshore conditions and good swell angle from the E/NE, is making for some tidy though tiny waves. Now we just need someone to invent a shrink-ray gun, then we’d be in business.
Dawn Report: Tiny and nearly unrideable here this morning - wave heights are down to a foot, and it’s very low on energy. You might find a small wave for longboarders here and there, but in general you’ll be better off doing other things today. I’ve left up some pics taken over the weekend - there were some small but fun little waves along the Goldy beachies yesterday afternoon under a NW wind, and I was in Sydney on Saturday and took some shots at Queenscliff (just north of Manly).
