I’m designing a noserider for East Coast US beach breaks, and wanted some feedback to refine my plan for this board. This will be my 15th board built, so I’m comfortable with the shaping and glassing process. Dims will be 9’ x 22’ x 3". I’m thinking some concave in the nose, slight belly/roll beneath the chest area and then it will go flat to a vee in the tail. 60/40 rails from the nose to about the final third, where it will transition to 50/50 with a softer bottom edge. 3.5" or so of nose rocker, 3.75-4" tail rocker with that little flick upwards at the very end. I’m curious about how dramatic to make the tail flick though. If I start the flick too early will it affect how the board trims? I’m also curious about where to place the fin box. It’s just gonna be a single fin, and I want to place the box 5" from the tail. I’ve heard people say 4.5", 6" even, but I just want to know an appropriate placement. I surf this one spot that’s like an inlet with a jetty where waves break from and if you connect your ride the right way, you can get a super long right hand trim. I want this model to work well for me, and I’m 5’7" and 130lbs, so any feedback regarding that as well is appreciated.
Shallow concave in the nose from about where the lap starts from one side to the other. About 2 1/2 — 3" from the rail. Shallow at 1/8" to 3/8" max. The fin would be fine at 5 1/2 – 6". I base the box placement on the length of the board. I am usually at 6" for a Noserider 9’2"or longer. 5 or 5 1/2" is usually meant for shorter progressive longboards(often with side bites). But for a straight up Noserider 6" is a good number. And that is to the back of the fin box. Depending on the fin and the rake of that fin, you can set the fin at the back of the box and the fin tip will be at the tail block or beyond. With a 10 1/2" box you can always move the fin forward enough to put the back of the fin at 5 1/2" or 5". With the box set at 6" you can always move forward. But with the box at 5" or 5 1/2" you can’t move the fin back should after riding the board you decide you need to. The flip in the tail should start immediately at the back of the fin box and should be noticeable. There is some debate about 50/50 or 60/40 rails at the tail. Depends on the waves you ride. Softer waves, softer rails is a fair rule. If it were mine I would add another inch overall to the template. The template you have there tends more toward a progressive type board. Looks more like something Stewart used to do. The Jeff Kramer Model etc. PS-- I wouldn’t shape anything shorter than a 9’2. 9’ers aren’t considered traditional. What you have there is a “Progressive” Longboard.
Thanks for the feedback man. Do you mean an inch in length or overall width? Like bringing wide point to 23 and subsequently widening tail and nose?
Overall width. 23" wide. Spread the nose and tail to match. Tail somewhere in the 15" range plus or minus. 18" for the nose. You can drop to less than 18" at the nose, but 18" is a good number. How wide is the tail block? 5–5 1/2"?
My personal opinion; I like it much better. A fuller more classic outline. The extra volume will get you into East Coast waves with ease. Since it sounds like your local sandbar has a bit of a down the line section; If you get the concave and tail kick right, it will move down the line on the nose with section connection speed. Carry the concave back to about where your head would be when you paddle. Going shallow into a blend at the belly portion under your shoulders and chest. Have fun.
Leo, may I ask please what app are you using for the screenshots?
It’s called iShaper it’s really useful. It allows you to make pretty much any kind of template and print it page by page which can then be taped up. I like it because it saves me the effort of sawing through and sanding masonite every time I want to make a new template. Instead I can make them out of paper and once I’m happy with any adjustments then take them to masonite.
Ruminating on this more I’m wondering about how best to shape the roll/belly. I know all it takes is a few planer passes on the edges of the board and some blending to shape it in, but won’t it effect the smoothness of the rail line? Im thinking if I view the board from the side with all the bottom contours shaped in I will see the bottom of the rail line lift a little where the belly is. How do I ensure the rail line remains smooth? Is it a matter of adding less tuck to compensate or something like that? Does it even really matter?
Hi; in my opinion, the last 1/4 of that template is not so good for the nose riding.
I suggest something like this one to have a look:
-semi pig noserider with progressive concave, pulled in nose; plenty of area in the last 1/3; fin that can hold but can be loose; etc
9 2 is the minimum with that template to have an smooth pure line.
Okay so you’re suggesting I make the shape wider in the last 1/4 and make the tail more square? And also pull in the nose a little and bring the length to 9’2. I think the square tail will work and the app I use doesnt really let me make the tail super square so that’s something I do once I print the template.
For the East Coast (especially) there is absolutely no reason to pull in the nose. You’re not shaping a Phil Edwards Model. You’re shaping a Noserider with a full width platform to perch on. Look around and check other #'s. 18" Nose and 23" width is common even for a rounded pin or pin. The wider template that you printed is a good all around Noserider. Stick with it. If you have never shaped a nose rider before, you will learn much from this starting point.
…not a Edwards outline; as mentioned semi pig outline; if you look again the photos you will see nothing about P Edwards models
That nose has more area than what is perceived; is all about lines. That board is about 23 max too.
USA east coast is big and there are plenty of stepped waves; also in my book pearling is a no no; only with a S Diego 1ft pearling is not a concern.
The outline that I am showing is more a nose rider than the template drawing;
More area in this one, with a right curve for the last 1/3 of the outline. A right noderider cannot have that type of outline in the last 1/4 as showed in the drawing.
Lol
…what a retarded, old druggo without arguments can say? Answer: “LOL”
The topic of the thread is this design. Not each other.
Lol… laugh out loud, amusement at your comment I’d rather laugh out loud than argue with with someone in
spanglish. Anybody seen my needle and spoon?
Hi Reverb is that sunlight shining through the tailblock on your board .?
Nice fin. I too thought Phil Edwards.