I don’t know if I’m really allowed to make something official here…but sometimes I have a stupid question and am just not in the mood to do a search… so maybe this might work?
A non threatening place to ask stupid questions. For the experts who will be exasperated, maybe avoid the thread? Orjust help out knowing you’ve probably answered the question a hundred times before…so…to get started…
1- What gloves do you use with epoxy? I was using vinyl throw aways, but epoxy always seems to soak through after a time. I kept using them because I bought a box of a hundred or something like that. I just bought some nitrile glove (no one hundred this time) to test, but my hands were tacky after lamintaing using these too (I’m a very slow laminator).
2- Second stupid question- when you do patches- deck patches or fin patches- do you put the extra cloth under or over the full length cloth? I always put them under, but now am thinking it’s better to put them over, so when you eventually sand into the edges of th patch you are sanding through the full length layer.
Sorry. I couldn’t edit the original post but there was an error corrected in bold below-
\
I don’t know if I’m really allowed to make something official here…but sometimes I have a stupid question and am just not in the mood to do a search… so maybe this might work? A non threatening place to ask stupid questions. For the experts who will be exasperated, maybe avoid the thread? Or just help out, knowing you’ve probably answered the question a hundred times before…
so…to get started…
1- What gloves do you use with epoxy? I was using vinyl throw aways, but epoxy always seems to soak through them after a time. I kept using them because I bought a box of a hundred or something like that. I just bought some nitrile gloves (not one hundred this time) to test, but my hands were tacky after lamintaing using these too (I’m a very slow laminator).
2- Second stupid question- when you do patches- deck patches or fin patches- do you put the extra cloth under or over the full length cloth? I always put them under, but now am thinking it’s better to put them over, so when you eventually sand into the edges of the patch you are not sanding through the full length layer.
Same, but I use vinegar to clean up. I do my lams in multiple batches, so I’m never moving that much resin around and almost none of it drips off the laps.
And I only do a few boards a year so my exposure isn’t constant.
I buy my gloves from amazon now. I’ll buy 4 boxes at a time for the best price. Here’s what I bought last time. I haven’t had problem with epoxy getting under the gloves, but I do get a few drops on my arms. I bought a few long heavier rubber gloves that you would use to wash dishes to cover my arms when I want, used to get them at the dollar store. I tend to get a little resin on me almost everytime I work with it. I use Denatured alcohol or occasionally vinegar to clean up. Vinegar if I miss a spot and I’m already inside. I’ve left some residue on my skin and peeled it off later many times. I’ll probably get sensitized one day, but the sanding dust will probably make me stop before that happens. I hope to make only 2 boards in 2019, an 8’ piggish fun board, and a long board up to 10’. That should fill out my quiver.
I don’t always put patches under the fin boxes. I add a patch after I install a post lam box. Lately I’ve been using FCS Fusion boxes, so I add a small footall patch over those, but under the main cloth. I should try doing it over and see if it sands out better.
Not stupid questions, where else can you talk about gloves, razor blades, and tape and hear about so many tricks that glassers do. But lazy is when someone could have got the answer in the archives or just google.
I use the HF nitrile ones with either poly or epoxy. Since I sometimes wet the laps with my hands, I wear two pairs and remove the outer ones when the laps are wetted. You can use the heavy household long ones which will wipe off as needed better than thin gloves. But it depends on how frequently you glass. If you’re doing it everyday, I would use heavier gloves. If you’re doing colors (especially tints) definetly put patches under. Don’t pull the squeegee so hard that you get an edge around the patches.
Working in the operating theatres,we use a lot of gloves every operation, there’s hundreds in every theatre, and for good reason, they’re disposable and they are there to save your life.
Once they get any sort of contamination on them we reglove immediately. Surgeons always use double gloves and often replace the top glove over and again, even just on a whim. When it’s all about health, the cost or nuisance of a glove change is the least worry in your life. Remember SpeedNeedles sensitivity to epoxy that changed his life ?
Buy a thousand gloves and try to use them all rather than save them. I regularly use 20 gloves for one bagging. Yo can get funky and use barrier cream but I find I sweat so much cream becomes a nuisance itself. Just keep changing gloves and dry your hands between changes. You can’t put gloves on wet hands.
I Don’t care about the cost of the gloves as the cost of not being able to glass is more important.
For Poly I use the Neoprene dipped blue and yellow gloves sometimes called “canners gloves”. I try to always buy the “flocked” ones. Easier to get on and off. I try to remember to powder my hands befoe I put them on. I buy them in a size bigger. They come off easy and after a short soak in Acetone are reusable. I’m working my way thru a dozen that I accidentally bought that were not flocked. This is what pro glassers have done for years. Just ask Wade or Alberto at Fiberglass Hawaii. That’s where I bought my first pair over 25 years ago. I do not use them for Epoxy. I use throw away one time use blue nitrile. Powdering your hands and buying one size bigger than you wear are the two big secrets when it comes to gloves. Honestly when it comes to razor blades I use the cheapest I can buy. Which means that every time Harbor Freight has them on sale I buy a dozen boxes. And; I reuse them. I toss them in a bucket of Acetone, let them soak and then toss them on a flat surface to dry. I keep a five gallon paint can with two or three inches of Acetone and a lid on it in the glass shop. With the lid it doesn’t smell or evaporate as fast. Lowel
When I do color(tints, opaque etc) I do patches over fin boxes in clear and over the top. Putting a patch under a tint or opaque will vary the color and make it visible.
I was actually just trying to scale a board froma photo to get an approximate fin postion. I ended up using the concret blocks in the photo, 8" height, to get an approximate sizde of 8’-0" with fins at 12". Does that look right?
because i come from un “industrial” background, i use double layer nitril gloves for epoxy, patch over to not sand main layers or i do a slight recess in foam if patch under, same for laps…
