What’s funny about this thread is that although you may have thought of it as “Lazy and Stupid”; alot of good questions and discussion came out of it. Actually one of the more interesting threads to come up in awhile.
^^^ +1
under…
dunno about the gloves, i have used both the ones you used and they are fine.
Stoked on this thread, the double glove thing, I’ve never heard of, Golden idea.
patches under?
i stopped when I sanded through
and made a weak spot
…iwas worried that would be
the weak spot where it broke in half.
on top it 'ud seem to feather out…
…ambrose…
but then dyslexia maks me do things…
diffrent…if the boat floats,…
it floats…
Hey everyone im working on my first board. Because of the materials available where i live, i had to glue 2 sheets of XPS foam together for added thickness. Im a bit worried about the glueline between the 2 sheets. The glue did not entirely fill the void between the two sheets so there will be a few openings (~1/8" wide) along the rails and on the bottom near each end. Some will have a shallow extent but others will extend a couple inches into the board.
I am concerned these openings will be weak points leading to a leaky board. What should i do about these openings before glassing? Anything to consider when shaping?
Sorry if this question isnt stupid enough or is too stupid for this thread lol.
I’ve have 2 boards that ended up delaminating between the foam and creating large bubbles. I didn’t know it was delaminating between the foam layers until I cut the board open to fix it.
If I do another board with 2 layers of sheet foam, I will make sure the foam is roughed up good and apply the adhesive over all the foam to create a solid bond.
Keith Melville taught me to use multiple gloves when glassing, especially when using lots of colors. You can pull off a dirty glove and have a clean one in seconds. Trying to put a clean glove on damp hands is a hassle.
Yeah… my next one will be an improvement for sure. In the mean time i was thinking that if i fill the gaps with something, itll give the glass something to bond to (instead of an open void). What would be a good filler? A small amouny of spray foam? Polyurethane glue?
It would be best to post a picture or two so I can better understand where the voids are and how big they are. I use light weight spackle to fill small voids and seams. Sometimes I’ll add foam if there’s a big enough void. Spray foam can make a big mess, same for poly glue.
I’ve filled voids up to a quarter inch with spackle, but you have to let it dry before you can sand it. Sometimes multiple thinner layers work best because they dry faster.
A couple of questions-
I want to do a rattle can pin stripe. What type of paint adheres best to epoxy?
Stock production shortboards- what grit do they finish with to get the matte look?
Get a vixen file. You will use it on more things than you would imagine
I’ll get you a pic later, but If I were doing as much wood in my blanks as you are doing I would get myself a Farrier’s rasp. Makes quick work of Stringer lumber at the nose and tail. Then clean it up with a Vixen and small Stanley Plane.
Microplane on my sureform, shaving sharp blade on my Stanley sweetheart then 180 on a block. Work nice. Farriers rasps are crazy aggressive…
Differant Strokes etc. I never liked the Microplane blades. Not aggressive enough. All my planes and planers are razor sharp. I turn the stringer at the rail with a rasp top and bottom. Then plane carefully with a Stanley Mini-Plane. Sand a little if I need to and then turn my rails top and bottom with the Skil, Dragon Skin, sandpaper and screen. Being careful to match my turned wood at the stringer. Never a problem once I started turning the wood first.
The blank is made of 2 sheets glued together. The resulting join runs along the side of the board, and crosses the bottom of the board near the nose and tail. I removed the big chunk of foam from the nose (seen in the photo) because there was a gap in the joint, making the foam very floppy. Now i need to find a way to fill the 1/2" deep crater left behind. Also you can see that there are some voids which daylight along the rails. They are 3/16" openings but do not run very deep into the board.
I have another dumb question. How do you get out of a front zip wet suit? Is there a technique? I hate them, but its getting harder to find a decent back zip. I use a 4/3 back zip Ferrel. Seems to be well made. Problem is when it gets really cold Im in my 543 hooded front zip rip curl. I’ve actually torn the rubber getting the f…er off. Less than ten surfs in it. How do you get out of them. Cold fingers don’t make it any easier. Mike
Hair creates friction inside a wetsuit. Obvious answer is removing hair. I’m a stickler for sharp blades which help take stringers down as well as hair removal. Take it ALL off but remember to set the depth of cut less than you would for your board. I generally blow it of before it returns to board use but if you want that true “backyard” build feel just go right back to your boards.
Same problem…even with my Kiwi 7Wave custome backzip. So, beneath the suit…rash guard on top, those full lenth bicycle leg things on the bottom. Then…do a good misting in the arms and legs with a 1/3 reduction of hair conditioner; don’t forget boots and gloves…it really helps those going on/off… My brand is ‘Jason soothing Sea Kelp Conditioner’…can’t get better than that !