Perhaps there’s more than one Sunset Beach…
Sunset Beach is just up the coast from Huntington Beach Calif. I wouldn’t say it isn’t big kind of hard to tell how big it is when shot from 75 feet above with a fish eye lens. I’m just saying
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Guys.. yes it is Sunset Beach, CA right after a big storm in April breaking 10-12 feet. My old 3mp (non fish eye) go pro camera was mounted to the center strut of my kite taking a shot every 2 seconds. It was a rogue wave that I caught, it got dark as it jacked up all I could think about was "Oh shit don't close out on me!" I did not know about the picture til that night when i reviewed the 350 shots the camera took.Granted it looks bigger from the high up angle but it was definitely huge in my book!
Pic of a Pro in INDO..not me ..bigger balls!
Up in Warshington last January on a 5’10-ish single fin. This session I opted for some small fun ones over the big sloppy mess down the road
Willapa ? Some great waves in Washington and COLD. You ever surf that left down Tillamook way
Howzit sano, I will pretend I didn't hear that since some of us don't have a choice and have to quit due to health reasons . I had to quit because I was diagnosed with cancer and that plus the trauma it and the radiation did to me. I had surfed for 50 years and lived on Kauai or 40 when I got the big C. One of the bjg bummers was I had just finished making a new longboard for myself and never got to ride it. Aloha,Kokua
Kokua I’m sorry to hear that. It sucks I wouldn’t have any idea what it would be to not be able to surf. It’s my life. It seams people read something into nothing. I was talking about people who buy a board and don’t follow through and quit to master bowling or golf or whatever. L et those who never quit and pay their dues to master the art of surfing and a life style. So yes I like those who quit. You didn’t quit or anyone who is forced out because health. If every person who bought a surfboard didn’t quit at some point it would be so flipping crowded with people who just want to be cool. I mean no harm I’m a old surfer who’s all about sharing my passion. Is that wrong. Quitters quit by choice
Howzit sano, Just thought I would let you know that we don't all quit just to quit. It up sets me so much to not surf after so many years of it being my main pleasure in life. I have had to change my pleasure to riding Harley's and living in Az, but at 63 and getting closer to 64 I will be OK and just dream surf. I also had to quit making boards after almost 50 years because of the toxic chems. Aloha,Kokua
Hey Kokua - interesting post, esp. the comment "dream surf". You know that I left surfing for many years. During that time, I had many dreams of surf. But always, always, it would be just out of reach. I'd paddle out, and there was always some obstacle to catching the waves, frequently, in those dreams, it would be buildings in the way, out in the lineup LOL. Or I'd paddle out, and the waves would start breaking somewhere other than where I was. When I started surfing again, the dreams stopped, haven't had even one since the day I started surfing again. Weird, huh.
Glad to have you here as part of the swaylocks community, wouldn't be the same without you! I clicked this post because I saw your name, and thought you had dug up some pics of your surfing days to share with us. So, ....got any?
I found some old photos of me trying to Paddle my long board. The board is 10-2 x 23 x 3 1/2. I think this was about 5 years ago.
Kokua,I’ll catch some waves for you,ok? i just finished 7 months of chemo on Dec.30th,before that had surgery.Having cancer and meeting all the people at the cancer center going through the chimo put a new spin on my life,gave me way more compassion .I am fortunate that I am bouncing back fairly quickly,but I work at it,and have been able to go back surfing and paddling canoe.I feel for you that you can’t enjoy the surf anymore,but riding Harley’s is fun,it’s all about the glide anyways.Every day is a gift,we don’t always realize it when everything is fine.Aloha
" Every day is a gift,we don't always realize it when everything is fine.Aloha "
in the words of the Lynyrd Skynyrd song ... " you SURE got that right !"
good on you kava , keep getting better mate
kokua , please NEVER stop posting here , I ALWAYS enjoy your input and encouragement and knowledge !
harry sharkman , that looks really pretty [where you live , not you ....though you're not ugly like me , at least ! ha !]
cheers
ben
woohoo !
did my brother take the shots ?
he commented on kiwis being there ....particularly at lakey ?? [...or , is that on sumbawa, I get them confused !]
Hi Ben,
Yeah i think Lakey is Sumbawa, this is up North sumatra.
Got some great waves with quite a bit of variety, some small days were the most fun:):
some nice waves there Nocean…
here’s a few I dug up … the aqua board is a Fat-Bat quad, 6’3"…and the other pic on the white board is a 6’2" I shaped for Anga, 6’2" x 19" x 2 1/2"…
I tried my best to take a 9'6" Weber Performer and shrink it by one foot. The board was shaped out of an 8'8" E Clark Foam blank; dimensions are 8'6" x 24" x 3 1/4" - the only rail cuts I made were around the nose and around the tail. I left the width as wide as the blank came. It was my first attempt at a longboard and is currently my favorite board to ride.
The pictures are from Churches, my first time riding waves on the US west coast.
Build it, ride it. Repeat…
6’0" x 20 1/4" x 2 1/2" diamond tail 4/5.
[img_assist|nid=1065009|title=blue spray|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=183|height=242]
[img_assist|nid=1067858|title=Blue Diamond Action|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=588|height=392]
[img_assist|nid=1067861|title=bd3|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=591|height=400]
Me on my 5’6" round tail fish. Crappy onshore day.
