The top one is. The rest just seemed a little extra crispy but by the sounds of things they will still work out fine.
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Are they warped? Larry torches them to get any remaining mold release agents off. If they are not warped then it's ok.
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Howzit Larry,Might work but I liked Mitch’s way of just using the dremel barrel sander attachment and that was what I would do when installing then just run he box over some 50 grit paper to rough up the bottom of the boxes. Never seen one come out yet and like I said I got one of the first installation kits for free from Mitch I think my kit was # 3.Aloha. Kokua
Dean, I am not sure I understand your pic outlined in RED. Are you stating that box is warped outside your Red lines? It’s impossible to be warped by texturing the outside. Not sure why you didn’t mention this to me on the phone. Mahalo,Larry
Nice Quad !
How’s she ride ?
Herb
Larry,
To me it looks like the lip at the bottom of the box towards the right is warped so it extends to a deeper depth than the rest of the bottom of the box. Its kinda hard to see with the dark background of that pic. With proper router bit depth, what is the normal gap between the bottom of the box and the bottom of the hole? I know I have asked you this before and I THINK you said 1/16". Anyway, if I were him I would just grind that little warped part down a bit so it doesnt touch the bottom of the routed hole and mess with the proper depth of the box, that is IF it is warped enough such that it will touch.
Hi Kokua, Hope your feeling well. Yes I am aware of the dremel tool Mitch is using, but not all glass shops have a dremel tool. Remember Kokua our task at ProBox is to make things easy with no extra tools if we can help it.
Things for sharing Kokua (-:
Mahalo, Larry
Durbs, Thanks for pointing that out. I think the word “WARP” is incorrect. I believe the extra heat creates a bubble of material, with alittle touch of sandpaper that can be taken care of. This DOES NOT effect any of the inside measurements.
Also you are right again durbs, there is about 1/16" space under the router box in the board before installing the box, which is allowed for glass and human error.
Thanks durbs for helping out, great to see people know alot about the facts of ProBox.
Mahalo,Larry
Thanks, Lee V (-: look forward to some pics. Mahalo, Larry
Howzit Larry, Now let’s not make it to easy for these guys, I mean let’s make them earn their money. If it wasn’t for these fin sysems the boys would have to do it old style and glass them like we did back in the stone ages. I know that there are still a lot of purests who prefer glass ons and being one who has did glass ons for way longer than have used systems to me it’s six of one ,half a dozen of the other in my mind. What ever the customer wants he gets. So tell me something when the plugs are made does the mold release some hows get deeper into the plug surface due to the heat of the liquid plastic absorbing the mold release? What kid of mold release is used in this process since it most likely is not the same kind of mold release used with regular resin.Want to learn mold on injection molding process.Aloha,Kokua
…man, I never used the probox system, I am open to does but is too expensive,
but this thing sounds kind of split hairs for me
Im not trying to be the advocate of Probox Larry, but that tiny crasp is nothing
go and sand a bit and will be ok
also, this kind of “public burn” is not so good
will be so so ok if it a real bummer but not this
and you posted before that you sell those box in NZ so why not call proboxLarry and ask directly and not “burn” it in the forum?
I’m with you reverb.
It seems a bit contrived…especially since you could have just talked to Larry about it.
You are THE distributer of PB fins in NZ right??? You spoke with Larry on the phone…so you have his number.
Besides…from your past posts…it certainly looks like you know what you’re doing when it comes to boards.
I’m having a little trouble believing you couldn’t figure this one out with relative ease.
So…what’s the REAL deal Dean?
Hi Dean,
This picture of the “burnt ProBox” is a little deceiving.
Notice I drew 2 parallel lines on the top surface and bottom. The box has not deflected at all. The black DRIP extending from the bottom is self explanatory and not an issue.
I have handled 100’s of ProBoxes over the past year with the ProKote and have seen a few drips like this. No big deal.
Yes, ProBox-Larry’s first batch of ProKotes was extra crispy but they have certainly reduced the heat in latter runs and they are pretty consistent as far as I’ve seen.
I’m sure you can request a set of ProBoxes without the ProKote if you want to do the prep work on your own.
[img_assist|nid=1041348|title=No_problem_probox|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
~Brian
Not sure why you think burnt plastic that has been melted to the point where it drips is acceptable. Your line is a little thick too. I could take a lighter to just about any other system and melt it, sand it flush again and it would still stay in. Does this make it okay in your books too?
Sorry Todd, but I don’t think you know what you are talking about.
Hey Larry …
Will have order coming thru soon … just waiting on some specifics and numbers
Reminds me, I’ll put a call out thru Sways to see if there’s any stray Oz orders out there !!
W
No Larry I didn’t discuss this on the phone with you, you said that they were fine when I posted the pic to you via email. I’m still hesitant to put burnt boxes into a board no matter how much sanding I give them as burnt is burnt. But obviously that’s just me. I’ve also given you my credit card details twice now via email and your answer phone shortly after the goods arrived and after five weeks of being told you were going to drop them off to the post office at which point you were out of stock of PB500’s. But I guess I should of just had DHL pick them up in the first place. My credit card still hasn’t been charged and I left those details with you nearly three weeks ago. So is there something else on your mind Larry?
The way I see it is that Dean is a little ticked that he is carrying the line
and is getting what may be considered seconds instead of first tier stuff.
If Dean is doing some resaling, then I understand his quandry and slow burn.
But Dean has not or will not be charged?, so that should make him happy,
and hopefully continue the relationship.
Another issue with the burning, from my perspecitve, is that its being done to eliminate as much
as possible ‘bad installs’. ‘Bad Installs’ manifest themselves in damage to the reputation of the fin box
system instead of the glasser/installer. Hopefully nobody gets upset over a slow burn.
Dean
As many others on here have stated…that’s the way they will look from time to time…and they ALL end up with burn marks to some degree…every last one
The structural integrity of the box is in no way compromised.
If it will make you feel better I will send you some picks of mine…they are virtually identical…and it’s no big deal.
I have seen the same thing on some of the white boxes that I have…simple bubbles.
They are still stucturally sound, there will not be any instalation issues, nor will there be any performance issues.
And in the end…the performance is all that matters. Nobody’s going to know what the outside of the box looks like when its buried in resin and microballoons. LOL
Forgive me Dean, but…You asked, and got pretty much the same answer from everybody that uses the box…but you still weren’t happy with the answer. It just seemed a little odd.
Brian’s green lines may be a little thick…but they are clearly straight…where as your red box is clearly crooked in relation to the box in the picture.
And Otis is absolutely right…Larry does the burn off to prevent bad installs.
The “seating” of the box is pretty much idiot proof(lucky for me 
)
If Larry didn’t charge you for it…you’re not losing anything…just install the box and see.
You’ll be happy with the outcome.
Forgive my offense
Mahalo
I see your point Todd and no offence is taken. But some tabs are melted and some are not on the same box(es). Not sure if this is enough to stop the box from sitting “flat” but maybe you have already checked. I could also sand the tabs but this does not strike me as being a good idea. Either way, I have had boxes from the first run(?) and all they were was a light brown. This made my life even more convenient by just being able to stick the boxes in the hole. Now I have a whole bunch of sanding to do. Hopefully it’s just my speculation that the boxes won’t sit flat because some of the tabs are now melting as well.
Dean Bonkovich