I was given a mid 70’s Blaxell Surfrider board built in West Oz in less that pristine condition, probably 4/10. The foam is a uniform brown colour and it has nose/tail dings and a few other dings on the bottom. Fin moves side to side approx 2" and delaminated glass on both sides. It is after all that it’s quite structurally sound. This company went out of production and I would like to restore the board. I would like to keep the original logos mainly because they are not quite PC (aboriginal standing on one leg holding a spear)
My thoughts are to give the whole board a pigment hotcoat after the major repairs but I’ll lose the logos.
I’m taking piccies tonight for Surf Research for history’s sake (they don’t have a Blaxell board or logo in their resources)
Any thoughts as to how to get around the logo problem.
there was lots more done but this was the basis for the job, but try talking to Platty, he does restallations all the time, quite good too, and you could also try chipfish61 hes got alot of old boards.
Josh.
PS… Remember to start of by taking all the wax off and then rubbing the board with Kerro/Turps etc. And give it a ruff sand to (60-80grit)
I’ve done several restorations similar to yours where I wanted to preserve the logos. There are methods to hide damage/recolor using cloth and resin, but I find this way is easier: (1) repair all damage, deck dents, etc. I’d remove the fin and restore it or get a new one. (2) sand to 180 (3) Mask logos. If they’re too intricate, put an ouline border around it and mask to that. (4) Mask stringer (5) Spray the entire board with acrylic paint (6) Glass the entire board with 4 oz, hot coat, gloss. This method adds the least amount of weight. In my experience, old boards when restored are rarely ridden simply because they don’t perform as well as modern ones. Also, you can’t do much on something that you’re afraid of damaging, so the thing spends more time on the wall than in the water. I’ve scanned logos and then traced them using Corel or Adobe and made a new rice paper lam. A lot of work, but that’s what restorations are all about.
Hicksy, I restored a Michael Peterson single fin earlier this year using the exact method that PeteC describes. It worked out fine. I had no logos to deal with, as I only glassed the bottom. The deck was left original and glossed. My original plan was to try hide the dings & discolouration with a pigment glass job. I tried a few test patches but you could still see through the pigment. I was using yellow pigment. A darker colour may work ok. With the logos in the past I have masked around them if they are pretty basic. Another method I use is. Get some good quality clear packaging tape, cover the logo, and with a sharp blade, lightly cut around the outline. This may still be hard in your case with the illustration you are talking about. Hope this helps.platty.
I was given a mid 70’s Blaxell Surfrider board built in West Oz in less that pristine condition, probably 4/10. The foam is a uniform brown colour and it has nose/tail dings and a few other dings on the bottom… I would like to keep the original logos mainly because they are not quite PC (aboriginal standing on one leg holding a spear) "
... Yep, I also have that logo ! I stripped a similar board six months ago. I'll see if I can find where I've put it. What other logos might <a href="http://www.surfresearch.com.au" class="bb-url">www.surfresearch.com.au</a> need ? [isn't that a GREAT site, by the way ?!] Platty, I'd LOVE to see a shot of your M.P. , PLEASE ! [here's my brother's one] ben [aka 'chip']
[ ps - for those interested in more shots of old boards, I hope to add to the ‘photo’ thread from time to time]
In the described method, I was wondering why you don’t just resin over the paint job, and not add the extra cloth? Is it for more depth in the color or is for structure/strength reasons?
In the described method, I was wondering why you don’t just resin over the paint job, and not add the extra cloth? Is it for more depth in the color or is for structure/strength reasons?
Thanks,
Herb
My thought also. Why not fix the dings and fin, sand the whole board, mask the logos and spray it as you would over a hot coat? then finish coat it or protek, whatever? i’ve got an old 6’ 0" flyer from the 70’s that sounds just the same and is part of the way to being restored. Some pre-work pics of it.
If you want a really Rich looking color job, I have had my best results with pigmented hot coats- Dark colors cover the best by far- Take the Whole Board down to the cloth weave, then carefully sand and fill all the little dents- Bring all the little surface imperfections level, then do a Heavily pigmented hotcoat- To save the logos- Tape them off, then after the pigmented coat (Coats) Finish them in a carefully laid clear hot coat- Sand and Blend- It might gain a bit of weight depending on the dents- But if you sand the Bejesus out of it before repigmenting it wont be too bad-- If you want to surf on it- Just fill the dents- Spraypaint and acrylic it- It wont hold up forever, but its the lightest way to go- Hot coats over a complete spray job can be dicey with poor bond to the hot coat- Its amazing how a really beat board can come back to life!-
Does adding a coat of epoxy significantly increase the weight of the board? What is the average cost of doing something smaller than a 7’0?
From the restallation ive done, ive found that a coat of epoxy doesn’t add any noteicable weight on a heavy old single fin. This might differ in different casses and boards, but I suggest either a light coat of epoxy or filler, even if you have fixed the dings, a light coat of epoxy/resin will seal any cracks that could lead water in.
also the good thing about giving it a coat of resin/epoxy is u can kill two birds with one stone, an pigmint the resin/epoxy.
Josh.
PS… I don’t know about cost in the U.S for epoxy but I did a whole board that is 6ft1’ 19.5’ 2 1/2’ for only AU$45 Dollars, I used Norglass Epoxy (its an aussie boat building supplier)
Herb,The reason for glassing instead of hotcoating is, the bottom laminate was so weak especially the rails, the easiest thing to do was to fill and fair then paint and put one layer of 4oz all over. Then finish as normal.
the M.P. looks to be the 6’8 my brother’s got, yeah ? [only in MUCH better condition…or, did you buy the re-release ?]
And the San Juan… was that from when Bob McTavish shaped for them, I wonder ?
Looks like you are also a “relic” man , eh ?
check THIS out… [this guy, Andy, in bermagui, only rides boards from about 1967-1969. That’s a Joe Larkin shaped by M.P. he’s holding there…]
ben
A few M.P. boards… Frank, with the 5’9 re-release , and a nice pigmented '70’s original in I think it’s the ? quiksilver shop? in George Street in Sydney.
A few M.P. boards… Frank, with the 5’9 re-release , and a nice pigmented '70’s original in I think it’s the ? quiksilver shop? in George Street in Sydney.
Is that Quiky shop the one with the two Balsa Waimea guns out the front? Thats got the coolest old boards on the wall, the used to have a perfect condition MR twinnie.
Hey Ben, how do you know Andrew? He is a good mate of mine, had a surf with him yesterday. He is the full retro man and is originally from Newcastle.
Craig.
that’s amazing… so, are you the guy who has some of his old boards ?
I’ve never met him , but have been in internet contact, letters and phone contact over probably a year or so. I heard of him through a mutual friend Ross in shoalhaven heads, who does the internet surf reports for the south coast of N.S.W…you may have heard Andy talk of him ?
That would be great. This board has a good all over shape but it really needs some TLC. I’ve also got a Mike Davis 6’2" twin/thruster you might like to have a go on plus my 8" HWS. See attached piccies.
We could get Gray and maybe Bert to come along as well, like a mini Swaylocks meeting for us Sandgropers.
