It looks like everyone is yearning for the good ol’ surfer days. Retro style longboards, clothing, and surfer transportation is back. Retro fever seems to be hitting lots of the guys who are over 30. It’s a cool blast-from-the-past life style. I hope it never fades away!
It looks like everyone is yearning for the good ol’ surfer days. Retro > style longboards, clothing, and surfer transportation is back. Retro fever > seems to be hitting lots of the guys who are over 30. It’s a cool > blast-from-the-past life style. I hope it never fades away! For starters, just imagine how truly powerful the retro movement would be if all the old popular surf spots were once again as uncrowded as they were in the 50
s and early 60s! Along with a miriad of other accelerating cultural and manufacturing changes, the shift from wood and varnish, to foam and fiberglass, was generally welcomed as an important step into surfings future. But, ironically, in contrast to our present wave of nostalgia, the focus of most surfers during that relatively innocent time period, was far less narcissistic than ours, and directed ahead, not backward. In my opinion, the real magic of reliving the past in the present, lies within the potent alchemy of thoughtfully blending the best attributes of both. Who wants to abandon todays wetsuits for those of the past? Or perhaps none at all? The same could be said of something as simple as surfwax. As a personal example, the custom surfmats that I handcraft are directly related to the ones that many surfers rode their first waves on, from 40+ years ago. But rather than that eras impersonally-sized, slower, heavier, less sensitive and organically fragile rubber and canvas, my surfmats incorporate todays finest nylon and polyurethane for vastly improved speed, performance and high strength to weight ratio… an inflatable dream brought to life… the best of the past preserved within the present.
I personally like the whole 50’s & 60’s California surfing life style. There’s nothing wrong with a little “Beach Blanket Bingo” and clam bakes following surfing all day with friends. I’m glad there have been vast improvments in board building materials and design. However, I hope that the classic design standards will continue to hold their own against todays most modern creations.>>> For starters, just imagine how truly powerful the retro movement would be > if all the old popular surf spots were once again as uncrowded as they > were in the 50s and early 60s!>>> Along with a miriad of other accelerating cultural and manufacturing > changes, the shift from wood and varnish, to foam and fiberglass, was > generally welcomed as an important step into surfings future.>>> But, ironically, in contrast to our present wave of nostalgia, the focus > of most surfers during that relatively innocent time period, was far less > narcissistic than ours, and directed ahead, not backward.>>> In my opinion, the real magic of reliving the past in the present, lies > within the potent alchemy of thoughtfully blending the best attributes of > both. Who wants to abandon todays wetsuits for those of the past? Or > perhaps none at all? The same could be said of something as simple as > surfwax.>>> As a personal example, the custom surfmats that I handcraft are directly > related to the ones that many surfers rode their first waves on, from 40+ > years ago. But rather than that eras impersonally-sized, slower, heavier, > less sensitive and organically fragile rubber and canvas, my surfmats > incorporate todays finest nylon and polyurethane for vastly improved > speed, performance and high strength to weight ratio… an inflatable > dream brought to life… the best of the past preserved within the > present.
I personally like the whole 50’s & 60’s California surfing life style. > There’s nothing wrong with a little “Beach Blanket Bingo” and > clam bakes following surfing all day with friends. I’m glad there have > been vast improvments in board building materials and design. However, I > hope that the classic design standards will continue to hold their own > against todays most modern creations. Sure starting to sound like an inflatable mat commercial…
I personally like the whole 50’s & 60’s California surfing life style. > There’s nothing wrong with a little “Beach Blanket Bingo” and > clam bakes following surfing all day with friends. I’m glad there have > been vast improvments in board building materials and design. However, I > hope that the classic design standards will continue to hold their own > against todays most modern creations. Grant, I meant no offense, and at 48 years old, I
ve experienced a few of those years myself. Thankfully, in spite of surfings drastic population increase since the 1950s and early 60s, and for all practical purposes, the strangulation of many prime surf spots due to the pressure from those increasing crowds, quite a few surfers have carried the older ways of camraderie and its surfboard designs into the present generation… the spirit of which is not limited to SoCal, either. As far as surfboard design standards go, as Rabbit Kekai has said, “to each his own”… I dont want to waste too many words comparing apples and oranges. There is no reason why radically different forms of wave riding cant exist side by side, each having their particular strengths and weaknesses. What worked well decades ago, are today`s classics, and nothing will ever seriously threaten the relevance of those timeless shapes and the means of riding them… unless they are neglected and forgotten. Dale
Dale, I agree with a lot of your opnions. However, it was “BJ” who posted onto the tail end of my last posting. “BJ” was the one who thought your first response sounded like a commercial…>>> Grant,>>> I meant no offense, and at 48 years old, Ive experienced a few of those > years myself. Thankfully, in spite of surfings drastic population > increase since the 1950s and early 60s, and for all practical purposes, > the strangulation of many prime surf spots due to the pressure from those > increasing crowds, quite a few surfers have carried the older ways of > camraderie and its surfboard designs into the present generation… the > spirit of which is not limited to SoCal, either.>>> As far as surfboard design standards go, as Rabbit Kekai has said, > “to each his own”… I dont want to waste too many words > comparing apples and oranges. There is no reason why radically different > forms of wave riding cant exist side by side, each having their > particular strengths and weaknesses.>>> What worked well decades ago, are today`s classics, and nothing will ever > seriously threaten the relevance of those timeless shapes and the means of > riding them… unless they are neglected and forgotten.>>> Dale
Dale, I agree with a lot of your opnions. However, it was “BJ” > who posted onto the tail end of my last posting. “BJ” was the > one who thought your first response sounded like a commercial… Ooooh yeeeah, lets go back to rubbing parrifin wax on our 40 pound logs. Boards that were so happening that we all just dragged then down the beach. Fins that were darn near square and we called them skegs. Wetsuits so funky that cold water felt better than those horrible rashes. Round rails that worked ok in any surf, unless it was your wave of the day. Rocker that helped invent the term “pearled”. P.S. Give me the here and now, I`m not going to die by fossilization.
bj, Sorry about that… not to make excuses, but I guess when your vocation feels like your avocation, then the combined passions of play and work are difficult not to share. I`ll try and keep a tighter lid on it. Dale
Ooooh yeeeah, lets go back to rubbing parrifin wax on our 40 pound logs.>>> Boards that were so happening that we all just dragged then down the > beach.>>> Fins that were darn near square and we called them skegs.>>> Wetsuits so funky that cold water felt better than those horrible rashes.>>> Round rails that worked ok in any surf, unless it was your wave of the > day.>>> Rocker that helped invent the term “pearled”.>>> P.S. Give me the here and now, I`m not going to die by fossilization. I don’t think anyone is suggesting a return to the past. At lest not as far as boards and materials go. But, acknowleding and remembering from where we came is not such a bad idea. I think what most people miss about the “good ol’days” is the attitude that used to prevail. When you were stoked to actually see other surfers, and having a good time in the water was what was important. Todays I gotta get mine and don’t get in my way attitude is very wearing and people get tired of it and like to long for days past when you could come out after a session smiling.
Ooooh yeeeah, lets go back to rubbing parrifin wax on our 40 pound logs.>>> P.S. Give me the here and now, I`m not going to die by fossilization. Put me down for a 40 pound log if it puts me back before today’s crowds…
Actually, I think it was the leash that is responsible for probably most of the increase in surfer population, more so than the new materials. These days it seems like all it takes to “be a surfer” - and actually ride waves - is money for equipment. As with most things these days, there is no sacrifice involved upfront. Wetsuits, light and good boards, leashes to eliminate swimming/penalties/responsibility to others in water…inevitable and good things to be sure, but something got lost when something was gained. What got lost, for the most part, seems to be “Fun”, which a lot of us equate with that 50’s/60’s era. Face it, the most derisive word in contempo surfboard terminology is “funboard”…like “Fun” is a turd on the Thanksgiving dinner table. Nels
What’s so funny about peace,love,and understanding? NEVER FORGET YOUR ROOTS!!! Herb.
What got lost, for the most part, seems to be “Fun”… Couldn’t agree more, Nels! It’s such a downer to see sour, over-determined faces coming out of the water on a good day. Like they’ve just come out of some battle. Sure, the crowds are a big part, but when you get to the roots of the issue… Arrogance and an egotistical image have infiltrated surfing. We need to protect what’s left of the surfing spirit! An appreciation of the past simply protects what lies at the core of our diversion: FUN!..and human integrity. I’m no anti-leash, beaver-tail-only, hardcore-purist rider, but I love my logs and the “good 'ol days” they represent. When I surf, I have fun! If I find that it’s becoming a competition, I catch a wave in. I’d rather be smiling. IMAGE IS NOTHING…OBEY YOUR THIRST!..deeb…
Couldn’t agree more, Nels! It’s such a downer to see sour, over-determined > faces coming out of the water on a good day. Like they’ve just come out of > some battle. Sure, the crowds are a big part, but when you get to the > roots of the issue… Arrogance and an egotistical image have infiltrated > surfing. We need to protect what’s left of the surfing spirit! An > appreciation of the past simply protects what lies at the core of our > diversion: FUN!..and human integrity.>>> I’m no anti-leash, beaver-tail-only, hardcore-purist rider, but I love my > logs and the “good 'ol days” they represent. When I surf, I have > fun! If I find that it’s becoming a competition, I catch a wave in. I’d > rather be smiling.>>> IMAGE IS NOTHING…OBEY YOUR THIRST!..deeb… Friends, It
s a trap of our own making: leashes, the advancement of common knowledge, lighter equipment, wave cams, warmer and more flexible wetsuits, better communication, vehicles and roads, the photos, video and other information presented by the media... all of which is compounded by the fact that that a great many of todays surfers werent even alive to experience what we have been discussing... how can we expect them to relate? Many of the current generations surfers are acutely aware of, and closely follow a certain image, often spending more time and money on maintaining that appearance than they do at surfing itself… its an attitude fostered in part by the driving aggression of related board sports and a cultural backlash to the mellower generation that preceded it. Ive yet to know a thoughtfully easy-going, polite and unselfish waterman who was also a corporate mercenary during business hours. In the end, how you treat people in the water has a lot to say about how you behave out of the water. The number of good, easily accessable surf spots are rapidly being choked by over-population, and sadly, were all to blame. Its the old attitude of unlimited resources vs. human expansion… and there are definite limits. What may be a totally fun, obnoxious and out of control, raucous rager of a crowd at your local skatepark is probably not what you hope to find at your local break, paddling out for a few mellow rides after a hard day at the office. But there is one last, bright hope on the horizon: radio-controlled model surfers! Youve seen them advertised, the ultimate solution for those days when its just too small, crowded or closing out! Imagine relaxing on the beach in your comfy chaise lounge, sipping a favorite adult beverage while your distant RC clone vicariously rips across every wave you want, and makes every critical section!! And so you are finally getting that peaceful, satisfied feeling back into your surfing… realizing that everything is as it used to be: no wetsuits or leashes, lots of time to lay on the beach in the sun, plenty of uncrowded “overhead” waves, unchanging board design and a never-ending beach party with maximum performance and minimum effort… aaahhh, so very cool!! But wait… that other RC guy (is he from around here?) who`s been belching loudly next to you, rudely drops in and cuts your little guy off with his new water toy… Dale
my credo: If someone gets a sweet ride – hoot! Hoot for each guy/gal in the water. After a little while a few other people in the line up will begin hooting. By the end of your session the whole line up will be hooting like monkeys for every take off! Don’t be too scared to look like a kook. S
I think the “turd on the Thanlsgiving dinner table” is pro surfing and all the bs that it involves. I’ll take a “soul surfer” in the line up any day over a pro wantabe thats surfs because he thinks he will get rich.
hey…l is next to k…
Grant say, “Progress good, but appreciate and never throw out things that work”
I
ve yet to know a thoughtfully easy-going, polite and unselfish waterman > who was also a corporate mercenary during business hours. In the end, how > you treat people in the water has a lot to say about how you behave out of > the water. Amen.>>> But there is one last, bright hope on the horizon: radio-controlled model > surfers! Youve seen them advertised, the ultimate solution for those days > when it`s just too small, crowded or closing out! Imagine relaxing on the > beach in your comfy chaise lounge, sipping a favorite adult beverage while > your distant RC clone vicariously rips across every wave you want, and > makes every critical section!! Put a camera on one of those radio controlled surfers and blow minds. They actually look like fun, but I’m afraid after a couple of adult beverages and a few launches I’d be lucky to have enough finger left to pick my nose. But seriously folks - I’m getting the feeling after my earlier post some folks think I’m antitechnology and surf leash. Not. I’ve seen a real Blake board and a Simmons spoon and I probably couldn’t even carry one. As for the leash, I hate the way they feel, and use them most of the time and always when other people are in the water. They’ve opened up places we probably wouldn’t otherwise surf very cheaply. But most of you know what I mean when I say the difference between now and pre-leash days is huge.