what happens if a person unintentionally uses lam resin as a hot coat without adding any surfacing agent?
will the board always be a gummy, unsandable mess?
can it be cured for a week (or two, three) and then revisisted…heat post cure, perhaps?
as you know the SA basicly smothers the surface of the resin to get a hard surface
I have oopsed myself by not adding enough SA
what I did to fix was to smother the surface with sanding dust or parafin wax
if you wait long enough it will harden without doing that
but I think acetone will allways make it sticky again when applied
you may want to just double hotcoat it and move on
Hotcoat it, it’ll go on pretty thin because you’ve already filled the weave with the lam resin hot coat so you can probably get away with a little less resin. You likely won’t notice much difference after sanding.
You can also try to wrap it in plastic that should make it harden by creating a barrier just like the wax would. but I would try a thin hot coat.
let’s talk science…why must the surface be "smothered’ for it to harden?
Atmospheric oxygen adds to the terminal free
radical generated on the growing addition polymer and caps it, thereby
halting further polymerization and leaving the surface of the coating
film uncured. The surface, therefore, remains soft and tacky and
possesses inferior film properties, such as poor solvent resistance,
stain resistance, and surface hardness.
In plain English, it leaves the end of the molecule unattached to another molecule of the medium, and therefore, unpolymerized.
That’s exactly what I was going to say.
No actually I was going to say, “That’s why I love epoxy- you can actually sand the laminations.”
That’s precisely why laminating resin IS laminating resin: as it remains tacky, it allows further layers to be added and to stick chemically to the first layer.
As already said, a thin sanding resin coat will easily solve your problem.
out of resin, out of SA…being a cheapskate.
another sanding coat is too easy anyway…there’s got to be a more complicated way to do this.
I’m formulating a strategy for an anaerobic chamber out of duct tape and plastic sheeting…
It’s probably too late now for your board that’s mostly kicked, but you can get the SA effect using wax paper. Of course, you’ll have voids where the wax paper didn’t lay down tight to the lam resin, but that’ll likely sand out. It’s a great technique for ding repair, lay your resin down, apply wax paper (use a squeegee and minimal resin for best results) and let it kick. The wax paper peels right off leaving a sandable surface.
Hi Tyler -
I’ve heard a good coat of automotive wax over the resin might help it de-tackify.
I was thinking about the stretchy pallet wrap stuff I have…THIS is why I love swaylocks.
Im tellin ya… give er a talcum powder rubdown or resin powder that’ll do it
at least try it on an area
since wax paper will apparently do it to get good consistent contact between the wax paper and the resin why not cover it, then throw it in the vac bag for a while?
if it’s in the vac bag, why even use the wax paper?
would the nylon bag not have the same effect?
one’s rubbed down with carnuba…the other is wrapped with that plastic wrap…we’ll see how it goes.
??? idk
What happened to K.I.S.S.? I think E.T. sells sanding resin.
Keep It Cheap trumps Keep It Simple? This will not end well…
Yeah I’m sure we all need the scientic reasoning behind the whole “pro-cess”; but the reality is that another hotcoat will take care of it. Lowel
I missed the ‘unsandable mess’ part of your initial post. I knew a logtime shaper from the Central Coast of Cal. that thought he knew it all. He would rather often screw something up during the Lam. and like the “Bull” in the proverbial China closet take the sander to it before hotcoat. I used to wonder why a brand new board would have a yellowish spot here or there. That is until I saw him do it. Hit a lam coat with the heat off a sander and it turns yellow.