That accurate planer looks like a pretty neat-o shiny new toy. Anybody modified it to cut more than the 1/8" depth that their website says it’ll cut stock? Can you drill it out like the Skil? Thanks -Carl
that planner looks so pretty, one day if I get good enough it might warrant me buying one as it is a beautiful piece of art, but im not gonna jump ahead of myself
I like those fins! Did you use some sheet foam and in what lb. density to do these puppies? Is that a glass layer line we see between two layers of sheet foam or just a glue line before foiling? I’d think you’d need a stiffener in there depending upon how many layers of glass you laid these up onto the board. You’ve got my interest going here. These must be really light!!! I could see lamming a couple sheets with some 1/8" or 1/4" PVC foam between and having at it.
…thanks Surfding and DS,
-no I didn t use sheets I did the sheets myself by hand cutting foam…(similar to a Clark s ultralight)
I have been doing different types; in this case is a PU/fglass combo
They arent so weak cause the outer edge is resin/ fiberglass
30 % lighter and Float! not a ballast behind
One customer used its on solid large surf without any problem.
One time a customer fell on a fin and both board and rider went over the falls and broke it in halves.
-Weaker but still useable is 3 densities PU without the fiber edge.
I used 3 densities because in my perception, distribute better the load of energy accumulated; also prevent a bit the breakage.
I used PVC but I didnt like it.
Around 20 years ago I did a set with the fiber/resin outer edge and air as the core so I preimpregnated the glass ons to the board.
Soon when I have some time I ll make another set of those “air core” ones.
Have you ever played with using EPS then melting out the core with acetone… netting a hollow fin.
…not yet
Check this out!! go to: www.fine-tools.com and click on “planes”. Then click on; “various iron planes” and look at the Kunz Compass Plane # 113. This is what the doctor ordered for those scoop noses. I’m too thick to know how to paste it all here, so this was the easiest way to share. Somewhat pricey but still pretty cool. It goes concave and convex!
ps. Thanks to Chrisp for the link to this site. A wealth of information.
t blank do not be alarmed this is not sarcasim but a sugestion i made to ding?
and if the fip in the tip is what bothers you there is a simple tool to do that job
its a block plane with a low radius sole best made in wood by the shaper (sorts the real ones from the duds)
the reason i say this is all the various planes that i have seen are just not right. (tear foam to wide a cutter)
the ideal is small fits in hand and is very narrow and built so as only the stringer is cut
blade is set at angle to cut not scrape.
reverb you and i got to get together the vacum bag will help you to go into another universe
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Roger that Huie, I’ve made concave and convex sanding blocks and spoke shaves for the the scoop nose and bottom contours. I agree the low angled block planes are way more efficient. Some guys mentioned they have trouble in this area. In the past for woodworking we’ve made a few custom tools for specific purposes. There is a small block plane in that line up I mentioned that caught my eye, will have to re-visit to study it. Thanks for the advice though, I’m always looking for the better way.
I’ve said it a few times here that Reverb makes some of the nicest Eggs I’ve seen. Thanks again, Huie, Cheers.
Hi Robin,
Is yours the short bed acurate planer??? I am just in the process of ordering one - and opted for the short one - hoping I've made the right choice???
Cheers
Rich
Aloha Rich:
Yes, mine is the short bed, I think it is a good all around choice.
At some point in the future I would like to get a long bed to use on balsa boards, but for now this ones pretty good at covering all of the bases.
Very interesting the subtle differences between it and a Skil. So far I have found that I like the Accurate for doing the rough out work and then I go back to my Skil to do the rails. Probably because of the grit drum in the Skil but more likely just familiarity and comfort, I’m sure over time I will switch over completely.
I just put a grit drum in my Accurate so that I could try it out and while it seemed to fit perfectly, it does not work as well as they do in the Skil, for some reason the grit drum in the Skil cuts a lot better, possibly because it is spinning a little slower than the Accurate, or maybe the shoe adjustment mechanism is slightly different and therefore the cut is not the same depth.
A lot of people dislike grit drums because they make the Skil run a lot hotter, the one I use (which is not really a drum, more like two segments of a drum) runs nice and cool on the Skil, but for some reason it runs very hot on the Accurate, I think I have tracked down the problem but I need to talk too the people at Accurate to see what their thoughts are on the matter.
But so far I love using the Accurate but would like to get it working with a grit drum, my hope is that eventually the people at Accurate will come out with one to fit their planer, that would be my dream situation as I’m sold on using a grit drum and I love their planer.
The one thing I love about the Accurate is how it glides on the foam, more like pushing the planer across ice than foam, very nice feel. This is why I would like to get the grit drum working because then I can run up and down the board without worrying about the foam tearing as you don’t get tearing with the grit drum. I should add that the Accurate is a lot better at NOT tearing than a Skil with blades, probably because of the higher RPM and powerful motor.
I can’t seem to find time to build a vac dust attachment for my Skil 100. Anyone got a lead on one? thx
Mr. Tate, it really doesn’t take that long to do one yourself with a little scrap glass and resin, plus it comes out custom.
yeah, but…I have several really good excuses. none of which seem credible at this moment. I actually have two versions started. That little rectangular hole just doesn’t seem like enough opening to get the dust moving out . I made an ABS plate, cut an oval hole and have a block of EPS foam glued to it. I know the next step. Once it warms up and the epoxy will react.
I have the Clark flex hose, but I want to go larger. Found it online at a tool supply and ordered it. That is the second version.
In the meantime, in between the job that pays the bills, anyone got a lead on one?
Thanks for pushing me to stop being a lazy sob.
Aloha GregTate:
Here is a photo of one that I built.
This one cost a fortune because I had a really nice base machined out of aluminum from a 3D CAD drawing that I had created.
There is also a photo of another one I have that I had made on a FDM machine from a CAD drawing, also expensive, but I have been using it for the last 5 years on my Skil. The photo shows it being used on my Accurate Planer at the moment, although I switch between it and the Skil all the time.
Excellent, Robin. I will copy yours in the lost foam method and tip my hat to ya. Both existing versions go on the trash pile. And since I’m now thinking a bit more positively, I suppose I could bring the thing in the warm house so the epoxy will set. Ha.
…sadly there s a vast Ocean and a bit of land between us…
my planner is starting to tear the foam, might be time to pull it apart and see what I can do :(
aloha robin have not seen you for a while?
how is that little number going
cheers huie
reverb we are only a computer away
Sharpen or change the blades? My blades are definately not razor sharp, but if i go slow they still cut fine. Maybe slow down? What foam digger?