Share the stoke ! [photos]

hey chip , i was down the coast a few weeks back , delivering a new longboard to one of my team guys , we went for a surf , i dicided to ride my long board as well , to make sure he didnt feel alone …

anyway yesterday a guy rings me and asked for my email , he says his MRS was sitting on the beach taking photos , he said she snapped one of me just after i done a full off the back of the wave cutty …

he reckons he always tells her not to waste photos on other people , but this time he let her get away with it …

i was stoked coz i dont think ive got any photos less than 6 years old at the moment, of me surfing …this is at fairytale land as well , on my 9’-2" x 24 x well its a mal…

and i wonder why i have knee problems ??

regards

BERT

Quote:

hey chip , i was down the coast a few weeks back , delivering a new longboard to one of my team guys , we went for a surf , i dicided to ride my long board as well , to make sure he didnt feel alone …

anyway yesterday a guy rings me and asked for my email , he says his MRS was sitting on the beach taking photos , he said she snapped one of me just after i done a full off the back of the wave cutty …

he reckons he always tells her not to waste photos on other people , but this time he let her get away with it …

i was stoked coz i dont think ive got any photos less than 6 years old at the moment, of me surfing …this is at fairytale land as well , on my 9’-2" x 24 x well its a mal…

and i wonder why i have knee problems ??

regards

BERT

Another knee bender …

young Drew , about 6 or so years ago , now…[ when he was about your current age , Josh]


Quote:
Quote:

Another knee bender …

young Drew , about 6 or so years ago , now…[ when he was about your current age , Josh]

Cool! if only quensie looked like that…

hey Bert & Chip - despite having had knee surgery I still find myself overtorquing the poor joints – here’s my complete lack of style at a local beachbreak – ow my knees hurt just looking at it!

i had a wave like that cept more like teahupo with hiw heave and thick the lip was but i can’tfind the picctures i took that day some of the best 6 inch waves you’ll ever see.

Bert

These photos have got to be of Avi Pt. am I right?

Well, THESE were taken 30 or so miles up the road from “Avi”, Tim …

Oops sorry , they should be attachments …don’t want to shut the system down …

next ones , attached okay ?

  ben

attachments…




I’d say these photos are of my local beach, Not so Secret Harbour.

Hey Tim

Yeah I love the signs they put up. This way to Secret Harbour…takes all the fun out of finding it really. It’s even in the latest UBD. Why don’t they just call it “Harbour”

And is Safety Bay really that safe?

cheers

Hicksy

Yeah Safety Bay really is. Great Kitesurfng and Windsurfing, but no waves :o(

When I started going to Secret Harbour 24 years ago we used to call it Anesty, it was a dodgy limestone/sand track followed by a 1.5k walk down the beach. That sure kept the crowds down. Then came 4wd access, then came houses, a Surf Club, Surf School a deli and so on and on. That’s progress I guess. I accept it but I don’t have to like it. The world is getting to be a very small place.

hey tim …

all those shots are bears …

from 85 to 05 …

hey you remember kerry williams ???

how his dad would load all us groms in his furniture removal truck, take us down to anstey and drop us at the end of the limestone track …than pick us up that night …

did you ever get in on those missions ???

regards

BERT

Bears, love that place.

Yeah I did get in on a few of those missions and camped in the Dunes and pigged out at the Golden Bay Deli, those were happy days. It’s a damn shame we lost the Blue Holes to the developers.

Having said that, I am selling my house in Safety Bay at the moment so I can move there.

Your boards are off the hook Bert. If I didn’t have 4 kids in private school, a big mortgage and a vampire of an ex wife screwing me for every penny, I’d be riding them for sure.

I made a few boards for myself a few years ago and am about to start again as I need something that’ll paddle a bit easier, I am 120kg these days. I have to make them for the kids as well, so you can see why I have to take the cheap option. Hopefully by the time the kids are able to tell the difference, they’ll be good enough to keep them stoked.

My plan is to shape a 6’7" x 21" x 3" with the midpoint 2.75 back, a 15" nose and a 17" tail like a McCoy Nugget. It’s all I can think of that will float my bloat and still paddle and turn. I always want to ride a short board. Got any better ideas?

I had a friend ask me to help him buy a board as he is just starting out, I found him an as new Sunova 6’7" x 19.5" x 2.5" for $500. What a bargain, he’s lucky to get such a fine water craft to learn on.

I’m really happy for you Bert that your life has worked out so well for you, It’s great to see someone doing it their own way and succeeding at it.

Later

yea they were the days …a tribe of feral groms going wild in the dunes …

unopened baked bean and spagetti cans on the fire , peeling strands of spag off your sleeping bag and whatever else was left in the open …

i remember one time ross linton threw a full can of areogaurd on the fire , until then id never seen a mushroom cloud …

funny thing was it wasnt our campsite …

we snuck up to another camp site in the dark , were all hiding in the bushes thinking there was a can of areogaurd on the fire , some dude and his girlfriend were camping out , nice neat camp with a tent and all , we were waiting so long and nothing , ross yells out only joking , were all awing and complaining about wasting our time when it BLEW !!! it blew a mushroom shaped flame ball about 30 feet into the air , flattened the whole site, tent and all , left a giant crater 3 feet across and blew the entire fire with hot coles over a 50 meter radius , raining down flaming debris as 10 , 14 year olds scattered in all directions …

yea they were fun days , dono how no one ever got hurt …

yea bummer about the ex , i still got mine and i still get screwed for every cent , but shes worth it , great mum and Mrs , shes my secret , if it wasnt for her i would be a bum living in my car surfing all day …

those dimensions you mentioned still sound a bit small for your weight , i would do 6’-7" x 22 1/2 x 2 1/2 , 16 1/2 tail and 14 " nose …

something like this should see you having fun at surf beach and the small reefy’s …

check out what roger from west is riding , something like that without as much chunk in the rails so it still releases water better …

yea so whatever happened to all the boys ??

only ever see a handful in the water still ?? , i know a few died , some are in jail , some got real jobs and moved away , and a couple got wives, cars , houses , kids , and a whole lot of stress ,whos left ??

seen fruity down the coast the day that photo was taken …

see maybe 5 of that crew around the line ups regularly , could name another 40 i dont see anymore …

regards

BERT

Yeah my 2nd wife (who I’ve been with for 7 years now) pretty much stops me from being a beach bum as well.

My greatest pleasure comes from surfing with my kids now, they have so much natural stoke about them.

We went to surf beach this morning, hit the water at 5.45 in the dark, no-one out but us, small glassy waves with the odd shoulder high sneaker to keep them awake, pure bliss, then off to school.

Thanks for the board advice Bert, the extra width will help for sure, I was going to give it a big single concave and maybe keep the tail rocker down to 2" or so. Trial an error for me. I’ll send a pic when it’s done so you can remember how bad a board can look and still make it’s owner happy.

Frankie goes to …

another green world

WOW! Great shot! what boards he on?

hi Josh !

Frank’s riding a green 9’2 mal in the shot , made by the guy in the longboard shop 400 metres away.

And in my current avatar , Frank doing the “Rabbit” hands behind back tube crouch , he’s riding another single fin …a swallowtail 7’er , I think also shaped by Ross , from memory !

Frank has previously also ridden stubbies [he had that M.P. replica , remember?] , 1 twinny, a kneeboard [standing up] , a surftech fish , numerous thrusters …80s to modern , an 11’er… and a thick clubbie paddleboard !! [this he uses every day to paddle from brighton to trigg …about maybe a 4 mile return trip , I would estimate ! ]

ben

My Old Lady doing the Oahu South Shore thing on her DT-2:

The first stoked girl on the thread…