Shed building plans for 9 x 13-ft

I thought these plans might come in helpful to some. The article states that this shack runs about $2400 in materials but swaylockers could cut a lot of corners and make it way cheaper. Good place to start anyhow. It yields a 9 x 13 x 11ft high ceiling at the pitch. Might as well add a shitter in the corner so you can sleep in it when she kicks you out!

Here is a cheaper/faster hillbilly version for $49:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_572_572

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/ut/tb_lg_planshires-lg.jpg


that is just about exactly what I built in my backyard, except I went 9x14, with 2x6 walls the interior is still under 120 sq. ft, which the city said I could build without a permit.  But its still a little small if you want to build a longboard (anything over 8'), 'cause you still need room to get around it.

    Howzit Huck, Basic framing with truss roof,my question to you is why 2x6 since you lost 2" all the way around the inside of the building. Usually 2x6's are using for framing a 2 story open ceiling. Aloha,Kokua

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that is just about exactly what I built in my backyard, except I went 9x14, with 2x6 walls the interior is still under 120 sq. ft, which the city said I could build without a permit.  But its still a little small if you want to build a longboard (anything over 8'), 'cause you still need room to get around it.

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....Move the door...add a second door.....maybe build a bigger door.....you know...right there under the apex....on the other wall....fun fun fun......

Not bad at all - a few thoughts....

Plywood is kinda pricy, while you can do a lot better if you get most everything from a sawmill. Rough-sawn boards and framing are plenty good enough for a shed and might well look better, board and batten style. The exception to that is the floor framing and floor, I'd use pressure treated wood for the deck framing and 3/4 ply for the floor itself. Also, the 2x6 floor joists are a little light, it'd be bouncy and might well sag if there's weight on there for any length of time.

Rather than the truss roof, a roof with 2x6 rafters will work okay. And if it's all open, the ridge vent ( a PITA ) isn't necessary. Especially if you have a window or two on the gable ends.

A couple of cross members are good for overhead storage, though I might just make half of it a loft. That's where trusses are no fun, they can really screw up your overhead storage.

9x13 - ahmmm- I might go 10 x 12. Less waste if you use plywood.

This set of plans specifies asphalt shingles. But what's called 'rolled roofing' is cheaper and goes on kinda idiot-proof if you follow the directions.

Used windows and such are a beautiful thing. Often free, along with a lot of other used materials, for the shed-builder on a budget. And frequently better made than the vinyl-clad cr@p they sell nowadays. Gives it a little character too.

Use galvanized nails. Trust me on this one. Bright ( uncoated) nails rust, and stainless nails ...look, you wanna build a 20 year shed with 100 year nails, knock yourself out, but you're wasting your money.

Something like this can be built with a circular saw, measuring tape, a 16 oz hammer, a framing square, a chalkline, a utility knife and a level, and I've built more than a few with no more than that. Oh, a ladder and a shovel too. More tools are nice, but no need to go nuts.

hope that's of use

doc...

 

Good point for that extra foot of width.

 

What did you mean by this?

“And if it’s all open, the ridge vent ( a PITA ) isn’t necessary”

 

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    Howzit Huck, Basic framing with truss roof,my question to you is why 2x6 since you lost 2" all the way around the inside of the building. Usually 2x6's are using for framing a 2 story open ceiling. Aloha,Kokua

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Don't remember why now, probably had a bunch left over from a job.  concrete slab, 2x6 24" o.c., cut-and-stack 2x4 roof, insulated r-19 in the walls, 5/8" rock inside, ceiling at 8' w r-19 also (again, just using up stuff I had around).  Windows I picked up at yardsales over time.  City let me build it w/o permit if the inside dimensions were under 120 sq. ft.  If I went to 2x4 I would have had 126 sq. ft.

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....Move the door...add a second door.....maybe build a bigger door.....you know...right there under the apex....on the other wall....fun fun fun......

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The more doors you add, the more wall space you lose - not always a good idea in a small space.  But I would have placed the door differently if I knew I'd be buildng boards in here when I made it, or maybe a bigger door, or maybe just placed it closer to the corner.  Its a pretty tight space to work in.  I can't really even show it in a photo, because when you stand at one end, you're still taking a pic of a wall right in front of you!

 

Wayull - yeah, a foot of width is nice, gives you room for some storage shelves, etc, while leaving you the center ( 3' for boards, 3' all around it for working space) and so on. 120 square feet is a fairly normal size for the 'doesn't need a building permit' classification.

"And if it's all open, the ridge vent ( a PITA ) isn't necessary" 

Okay, the ridge vent they show, corrugated plastic under short shingles so the peak of the roof can ventilate and you don't get heat buildup - it's silly, in a completely open shed where air circulates okay in any event. Might be of some use in a house, where you might want the soffit vents ( by the walls) to let air through all the way to the peak of the roof when the ceiling and walls are closed in with sheetrock or what have you, but on this it's foolish, unnecessary and a Pain In The ... Posterior.

Instead, you could use a gable vent, if you really, really want a vent, like shown on this one here:

A local sawmill puts these out , originally as a sideline but now it's their main business: http://www.pineharbor.com/ - worth a look around for some ideas.

Myself, I don't like the plastic ridge vent anyhow. It looks like thick black plastic cardboard, nailing through it without squashing it isn't all that simple either. Like a few things in that plan, it seems to use 'build to building code' house construction stuff and new, off-the-shelf-at-the-Home-Despot materials.  And there's a lot of good stuff that can be picked up elsewhere.

doc....

This is the building i'm using to create a 9' 6" San'o H,W,S. It's approx' 15' by 9' inside with double doors at the front which helps to manuvoure her when working on other projects. It's construted from 4" x 2" and a load of reclaimed gear .It sits on a 7" x 4" ring beam over 4 dwarf footing walls. Joinery was all made from reclaimed woods, all i had to buy was the glass and the Cedar shingles All made by myself with some help from my two daughters.



wow! beautiful carpentry/buildings! better built than so many of the single family residences here on Oahu :slight_smile:

There aren't any carpentry jobs on Oahu are there? Shit its got to be better than dreary old England!!!!!!

More pics;

like most places USA, it was BOOMING a few syears back but it’s been pretty slow construction industry lately. most of the new median income residential planned community home developers are going with light gauge steel framing. formosan ground termites & their flying cousins eat homes fast. woops veering off topic sorry

Oh well Bud it was worth a try. It's always been a bit of a dream of mine to Live on an Hawiian Island. Cheers Martin

If you can, build it 16ft long. I used to have an 8x16 shed, and it was just right for doing longboards. Anything shorter, and I would have felt really cramped.

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If you can, build it 16ft long. I used to have an 8x16 shed, and it was just right for doing longboards. Anything shorter, and I would have felt really cramped.

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I have to agree with you.  Mine is 14', and its way cramped with a surfboard inside.  I hesitate to build anything over 8' in there.

    Howzit western, What happens a lot of the time is the companies bring in carpenters from the mainland which pisses  us off.  The politicians had a bill on the table that would have not let that happen any longer but it didn't get passed. Seems like they bring them from Washington and Oregon usually. These days there are few carpenter jobs out there since there is not many new homes being built. I am one of the lucky ones for now but that's because I do it all and have become more of a fix all handyman with good references but heck I am going tobasically retire in a couple of months after I finish my to do list and the property is for sale for a mere 9 million. Aloha,Kokua

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    Howzit western, What happens a lot of the time is the companies bring in carpenters from the mainland which pisses  us off.  The politicians had a bill on the table that would have not let that happen any longer but it didn't get passed. Seems like they bring them from Washington and Oregon usually. These days there are few carpenter jobs out there since there is not many new homes being built. I am one of the lucky ones for now but that's because I do it all and have become more of a fix all handyman with good references but heck I am going tobasically retire in a couple of months after I finish my to do list and the property is for sale for a mere 9 million. Aloha,Kokua

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CNC, corporate domination of commerce, 3rd world labor for pennies on the dollar, dumbing-down of the trades, pseudo-furniture made of regurgitated termite vomit with a picture of wood glued on the surface now the new norm, construction / remodeling in the commode - the American craftsman is officially persona non grata now.  One day I'm gonna write a book, Craftsmanship: The Unwelcome Gift

Hi Kokua, Yeah over here in the U.K. we have a similar situation with Carpenters from Latvia,Poland etc They are willing to work for a lot less,live on site, as they build and send a lot of there money home, Like you i can turn my hand to most things, recently did a far sized plastering job,but would rather be doing Cream Carpentry. What you going to do when you retire? Down size and live it up,Surf every day ,Water sports till you drop, go fishing? Or all of the above?

       Good luck to ya brah'  Martin