I've been commited to riding a new single fin shortboard for the last month or so. It is flat rockered and wide (6'0'' x 15'' x 20'' x 15.5''). Experiments with fins continue, but I've been messing around with stuff between 6'' and 7'' in depth. The board is fantastic in general, but I've been struggling in one specific area and I'm wondering if it's "the plane or the pilot" (the ultimate answer is probably some of both, but indulge me here).
Now, in ledgy, throwing beach break I'm having some trouble taking off behind the peak in the steep section. I'm talking about the type of takeoff where you go over the ledge late and really insert the whole rail to make the drop. I've consistently had the experience of my tail drifting/sliding down the wave face in this situation. The effect is especially disconcerting as the lip throws over your head and you realize a good little barrel section is about to be turned into a yard sale. I've had this problem with the 6'' and 7'' fins.
This sort of take off is generally gravy on a rail finned board. However, I've seen plenty of crazy takeoffs on WAY heavier waves on singles in videos, so I wonder what's happening here.
Perhaps its the tail width? Perhaps I need to go towards an 8'' inch fin in these conditions? Perhaps I should just get back on my shortboard? Perhaps I just suck?
What is the diagnosis on the late drop tail drift?
hb