So, how much tail rocker are we talkin' about here?

“can’t get my head around the front and back foot surfing thing, your on your front foot pumping down the line or doing a bottom turn then your on your back foot doing a cut back or a re-entry? I’m not dissing the theory, I just can’t understand what people are talking about, your using both WTF??”

 

not a thoery. you surf in balance. thats why anything over 6 6 is dumb in waves under DOH you cant surf them properly.sweet spot is too wide, you end up tail weighting the board and staling it. so you have to change everything underneath to make them work a bit better. most of those big guy shapes are way over rockerd as well. i can walk into a big surfshop with hundreds of boards and literally cant find a hpsb that would suit me. fish are not a fad. they have superior nose rocker and length for hpsb but everything else on them is wrong lol.

yeah so fish blanks ended up overshaped on the deck but betta then a shit rocker

Paul… I don’t know what you’re referring to when you said, “everything about a fish is wrong.” Personally, I think there’s a lot right with a good fish, besides rocker. Guess it all comes down to expectations…

That didn’t sell it to me Paul, doesn’t being in balance on a HPSB mean you are neither front or back footed, your using both stances for different parts of the wave?

 

The other debate about rockers and boards is a personal thing, we’re all of different locations, ages, abilties and interests.

 

Weat coast North island gets long period swells with 4 meter tides, the accent to the coast is shallow so the waves tended to be fuller with more open face on a decent swell.  East coast aus get short period swells and punchier waves which require more rocker in the boards.  Raglan and trestles are very different to Snapper rocks in QLD or Dee Why Point in N.S.W.

 

It’s good to vent our opinions but I think we’re gona get frustrated with each other.  Peace.

 

I’m stroking my ego here with this picture so you can call me an F’wad but, Dee Why Point 09, board was 6’2’’ x 18 1/2’', I want nose flip!!  I also think nose rocker helps in the recovery of top to bottom surfing but correct me if I’m wrong.  Dam this surfing and shaping stuff, your always learning!!!

Off topic on weird tangents now but Dee Why made me think about this interview, funny but sad, fuckn good surfer, early 90’s.

 

Do any ozzies remember greg webber’s early 90’s ‘banana’ continuous rocker?  I had one, I was about 13.

 

http://www.korduroy.tv/2011/shane-herring-innerviews

I’m going to jump in here with my two cents. 

Front leg is leaning into turns, and back leg is for those who sit back on turns.  Rocker is all about getting the ride you want with the way you surf. 

A front legged surfer who leans forward into a bottom turn, will notice a real difference from the addition of entry rocker.  It will turn quicker up to the lip.  Say 1 3/4" at 12" or 1" at 12".    A back leaning  surfer really won’t notice the difference between these two entry rockers, because his entry area is already lifted out of the water.  Same with a carving surfer, compared with a arm swinging flat turning surfer.  The carver is taking advantage of the rocker, while the swinger is just bogging down because of it.

For tail rocker, less than 2 inches is going to do two things.  On a hard turn, it gives area for the water to resist against, and squirt the board forward, like a seed between fingertips.  And it will make  you pearl more.  More tail rocker projects forward less but lets the board point up the face more.  It doesn’t tale much effort to spin a round object in water.  Try it with a ball.  just spins, but doesn’t go anywhere.and again the difference will be even more for the guy who leans back, than the guy who leans forward into his turns.

More tail rocker helps keep the nose up on a steep drop, but will be slower to get you out  and onto the shoulder.

Last decade’s blanks against this decades blanks isn’t really the issue.  Each has its advantages and detractions.

Before you shape anything, decide on the riders style and the wave that its ridden on.That’s why we make custom boards for different riders.  That is why we’re here, isn’t it?

Very well stated.

Thanks Bill,

I’m truly honored.

heya marsh. imo you can flip a low entry rocker if you think it might stop you from nose diving on a vertical drop. that measurement doesnt really matter. its the 12 inch point that is critical . ill try and explain it  from a longboarding perspective. on a 9 foot board you have to stand forward on the board to trim it and step back to turn off the tail. on a short board you dont have to move your feet you just switch your weight. the way you do this is realative to your entry and bottom curve. fish rockers are better for this then say a 90s era rocker… a classic marketing thing for fish and eggs and shit is to ride 3 to 4 inches shorter then a your hpsb… WHY IS THAT. because short board do everything wrt hotdog surfing better.nice wave btw how many share the peak on that day.

btw i like surfing fish . i think however they are bad for hpsurfing. you need a pulled tail and tail rocker and wide point further back then a fish. but the entry and fuller rails and width and thickness are all good things. i surf east coast mainly although indicators is not a fat wave

yeah each to there own as well . but why cant i buy a blank with a low entrty rocker when i can see pros riding boards with low entrys

i might add before the bananas came out, nose rockers seemed pretty sensible in the cheyne horan days .

Thanks Everysurfer, great description!!  Ok I’m semi getting it Paul haha!! Cheers!!

How many people surf the Point?  Frigen heaps!!  You’d wig out haha!! it def not to be attempted on a weekend.

Sorry I wasn’t saying the surf in N.Z was rubbish, I had one of the best trips of my life, the waves are epic.  I just meant the west coast gets a lot of soild swells with higher periods, bigger waves and big tides (lots of wind too!!) .  That popular beach near Auckland, hell the banks and waves changed every half hour!!  Got lucky it was in December, I was at raglan for 3 days for a swell, surfed indicators about 4ft, really fast, challenging to get barreled on your back hand, pretty sick though, those big boling boulders are fun!!.  that middle point had a really good arvo surf there as well as Manu bay.  They are all epic mate don’t get me wrong, saw a big white pointer at Manu bay, cruised striaght up the line up, lucky it was onshore and no one out, I watched it from the headland. Loose!!

 

Surfed here good too, the next few days after see the shark was fun , no one turning up,  the middle of no where!!!  

I found where Silly’s hanging out when everyones working, bastard!!!

…what a nice place!.

I can add that Banana rockers are better suitable with a thruster set up instead of a quad one, due to the inherent style of surfing of the thruster.

-that a very good modern surfer that rides toobs likes better more rocker than flat ones (in HPSB).

They feel that the flatten rockers, mainly in the last 1/3 of the board, let it stiffer than the others.

-an entrance level surfer or a guy who do not have enough skills or suring days suit better a more flat approach

so, if these guys want enhance the action, in my opinion, is best to play with the fin design and set up.

But what if you lean heavily on your front foot on bottom turns, then heavily on your back foot off the top and cutting back, and the wave you surf starts steep, then flattens out and then gets steep again…I’m so confused…

When in doubt, run to the nose and pose!

same spot. thats whale bay. the middle point. even when its kinda crowded at this size its such a long rotation on the peak that you hardly see anyone

we sometimes flag work and drive over in the middle of the night. but lately the government changed the rules so if they find you sleeping in the car you can get a 200 dolllar on the spot fine. some of the locals dob you into the the council. cuz living here is just not enough for them.

 

 

 

hi reverb im 40 and 95 kilo i can ride a bannana and i see what they can do for easy turning. but all my boards are under 6 4. i leave volume and low rockers to keep me competetive on a shortboard. have never felt disadvantage on hollow waves as your into the wave faster anyway

heres something that i found from rustys blog

theres a section in there somewher in rocker entrys and reverse trend to lower entrys written by richard kenvin ( i dont know of him but the paragraph makes sense to me)

"After the longboard era ended in the late sixties, surfers
pursued a performance ideal focused on deep tuberiding, tight-radius
carves, controlled slides, and finally, vertical turns in and above the
lip. This performance criterion has dictated the evolution of the
shortboard over the past 40 years. The desire to perform precise
vertical turns and make controlled micro-adjustments on the face and in
the barrel brought about a narrow, stiletto-like board with continuous
outline curve, lots of rocker, and a canted fin cluster designed for
holding power and instant release up the face. All of these design
innovations make today’s incredible shortboard performance surfing
possible. The dreams of the late sixties have come true, and there is no
argument that the modern shortboard is a functional waveriding machine
that allows for spectacular surfing.

That being said, this shortboard performance ideal comes with a
price, and the currency that pays that price is drag. Quick lift,
paddling power, glide, planing speed, and trim have all been sacrificed
on the altar of maneuverability. For the strong and agile or for those
lucky enough to ride clean, powerful surf on a regular basis such
drag-inducing design elements as ample rocker and narrow curvy outlines
have more benefits than drawbacks. Even so, surfers are always looking
for new sensations, and in recent years many of us have been exploring
designs from the past that originated long before the contemporary
shortboard. Wide, low rocker, high aspect-ratio designs like the fish
don’t allow quite the same performance levels as shortboards, but they
do set us free, more or less, from paying the debt of drag associated
with ultra-rockered, narrow designs.

This growing movement towards experiencing “alternative” boards
like the fish is evidence of a widespread desire to be freed, at least
occasionally, from the shackles of over-specialized contemporary design.
In fact, these “retro” boards are now influencing shortboard design as
rockers mellow, outlines get straighter, and boards get wider and
shorter. As the design pendulum swings back in favor of wider and
flatter, it seems we are in for interesting times. With minds opening
along these lines, shortboard performance is about to take a leap
forward in a new direction. Relaxed trim and planing speed will be
possible on very short and maneuverable boards, and the dreaded
“Huntington Hop” will be eliminated from our repertoires. All along the
surf history timeline the prophets of width and planing speed have
appeared and blown our minds: the Paipo riders of Hawaii, Bob Simmons,
George Greenough, Steve Lis, and though we try to deny it, bodyboarders
like Mike Stewart and Danny Kim have all brought us a message we too
often fail to heed. With evidence of the virtues of flat and wide (and
finless flex!) displayed right before our eyes our tendency to
stubbornly deny those virtues in favor of convention is quite
remarkable."

 

Great article!! 

 

Thats funked about the sleeping in car thing, someone told me that N.Z was changing with this.  So many backpackers driving round I guess? I went in December 09, slept in the carpark an Manu and was woken one morning by some crazy dude smashing on the windscreen telling me to f off.  He rides a long board, does headstands and smokes a lot of funny stuff, you probably seen him.  In N.S.W they have a whinge at the big places up north like Byron, yamba, Angourie.  I just went to Tassie and didn’t see a park ranger the whole time, saw about 2 police officers, fairly backwards, super cool (and dam freezing!!!).