“the wt. difference is so minimal that only an ant would feel the difference.”
There are a lot of “ants” out there.
Let me get the bucket out and I’ll let everyone know what brand I’ve been using.
…I’ll be Back !
H
Here we go !
It’s …
DAP"CrackShot"…(and not the kind some people smoke).
high performance spackling paste.
Knife grade formula
ideal for dents in metal doors,and trim.
no shrinking
sands effortless
won’t flash paint
contains:
calcium carbonate,clay,mica,ethyene glycol,crystalline silica,and diethanolamine.
pre-mixed,ready to use.
I buy it by the gallon,and use it for everything from filling and bedding gunstocks to filling holes in walls.
I started using it about a couple years ago when I didn’t have any lt.wt. sackle around.The results were better than hoped for and out preformed the former stuff I was using by 3 fold…kind of a JP-5 of spackles.
ps…I usually thin it with acrylics.
pss…Greg’s resin is killer.
H
hi all,
great thread, exactly what I needed.
I just finished shaping my 3rd board, a 12’ sup made for a friend, and I was wondering
how to seal\paint it.
I got my answers, going to get some RED DEVIL this afternoon , hope it works as good as mentioned.
i’ll keep u updated how it went.
thanks,
lee.
Hard to find that stuff.
Yes, Red Devil.
Hey Deanbo
Bunnings sells the Red Devil Onetime Leightweight filler.
Pretty cheap, works great.
Otherwise you can get Dap Fast n Final from The Glue Guru http://glueguru.co.nz/
Cheers. Ever had any problems with the fast and final stuff?
I didn’t see this thread…LOL My first “Spackle” thread…
Through my trials and tribs…In my humble opinion…
Tried and true steps to great Spacklin’ (Yes I am in Texas!)
2# foam…pretty standard stuff nowadays
Surface finished to 100#, If you want to spend another hour goin down to 220, knock yourself out. I tend to rest my back and drink a beer!
TAPE THE STRINGER! Spackle looks like crap when it gets in the stringer!
Home Depot - Patch n Paint…Fast n Final …Red Devil…
Pick yer poison…all about the same…
Here in Texas we have about 99% humidity…about 99% of the time so WATER is an issue for me. I REALLY don’t like the idea of any WATER gettin in my board before it gets glassed!..I generally keep the heater on in the shop in the winter just so’s the shaped blank stays nice n dry.
I ONLY use acryllic to thin my spackle…PERIOD! NO WATER!
Ever wonder why your nice “Mayonaise” thin spackle goes all thick n pasty when you start spreadin’ it around???
BECAUSE THAT SPONGE OF AN EPS BLANK SUCKS ALL THE WATER OUT OF IT! LOLOL!!!AND I figure it will be a few days , IF EVER…that you can get that water back out! SO…NO WATER!
Not mayo either…more like thick syrup…pourable!
Pour n Spread…hey, Sounds like my own brand of spackle!
The foam will suck in some of the acrylic…the spackle gets nice n dry…Crunchy, and when the acryllic dries the board is pretty much gonna be resin tight. Hit it with 150…OK OK 220# on a foam pad and it is the Sh!t! If you need to do one of them fancy paint jobs (Absolutely fantastic design and paint Atomized!)…just repeat the above step again…it will be as smooth as a baby’s butt!
One note: If you are going to do some tape lines and painting…BLOW the dust out of the pores of the blank before you spackle! This will keep you from pulling debris with the tape and ruining your paint job.
Question: WIll thin paint run under the tape into the semi porous spackle???
HELL YES IT WILL! Acryllic thinned spackle is not nearly so porous though.
But if you have done much painting then you KNOW to use several DRY coats or a coat of white to seal the tape edge first before gettin’ on it with some color.
After you sand your spackle, by the way, if you use 220# it will only sand the spackle as you really have to get on it to sand EPS with 220#, I usually spray the whole thing with white base…JUST SOME PLAIN 'ol TEMPERA! (Thinned with acryllic!!!)
If you want to spend $8.00 on that fancy tube stuff…well…GO FOR IT! It’s your money!
I have had one of my glassin’ buddies over at my little shop one day and I showed him a board that was ready to git sum color…His first words were “Is that a Clark blank”???
I have to say it very much looked a LOT like sparkly Clark foam…but that is another thread! LOL.
Never had a delam in over 100 boards so far…
I have my theory and I am …“Stickin” to it!
Thanks Greg for the absolute best resin! It is the only resin I will use on my boards!
Krokus
Hmmm, I don’t believe epoxy bonds to acrylic all that well. As for being resin tight, I think you would want some resin to soak into the foam for a mechanical bond. What does Greg Loehr have to say about thinning spackle with acrylic?
Hmmm, I don’t believe epoxy bonds to acrylic all that well. As for being resin tight, I think you would want some resin to soak into the foam for a mechanical bond. What does Greg Loehr have to say about thinning spackle with acrylic?
KROCOS is right on the money.
I buy ZINGERS (Exterior - white primer) and mix that with my spackle. When you mix your spackle with City Water (Clorine) your spackle will turn yellow when it dries. Don’t use water. KROCOS has given you a simple correct way to spackle. Try it and beleive me when a guy does over 100 boards he knows what he’s saying. Texans have been doing EPS EPOXY for a long time now and have a wealth of experience we can all tap into. Greg Loehr has great Epoxy but doesn’t have to approve everything you do?
I’ll’ back that up too. The only weak bond in the thing is the EPS beads bonding to each other. BTW, I don’t believe it’s chlorine that causes yellowing. Most likely it’s the mineral content in tap water, specifically the iron content in the water. If you need to add water, use distilled.
Hey Ace, I don’t know if an ant could actually tell the dif, they can pick up something like 100 times their body weight w/out breaking a sweat! They are really amazing creatures…they can also live for several hours with their heads torn off.
…just a bit of ant trivia 
the acrylic & spackle “pour & spread” mix – this may be the holy grail I’ve been searching for.
May I ask – what type of acrylic specifically are you talking about?
Thanks!
Quote:
the acrylic & spackle “pour & spread” mix – this may be the holy grail I’ve been searching for.
May I ask – what type of acrylic specifically are you talking about?
Thanks!
Don’t know about Krokus, but I use Liquitex “Basics” titanium white. Just dump it in the spackle bucket and mix 'er up.
Mike Cucco = Jack Barlow?!?
Hey Krokus–where’s a pricelist for your boards ? You make good surfboards! pm me pls?
I dont use paint to thin my spackle since I am going to paint over it any way. ALso the acryllic gets sucked down into the foam a little and fills the pores creating a seal below the surface…the surface holds the spackle and is still a little porous. Plenty enough to form a nice strong bond. Geez, it’s not rocket science…just common deductive reasoning. You can still get splotches and patterns when you paint it…it is the nature of painting on this stuff…But, if you are patient…and handy with a blow dryer…you can achieve some great results. The trick is to not spray additional coats of paint until the first is COMPLETELY dry…
I still try new stuff all the time, but the method I described works damn well…I don’t want unhappy customers!
Also I think it is the mineral content in the water that causes the yellowing or coloring of the water thinned spackle.
That was my initial motivation to get away from water thinning! The new owners of Future are Pledge…
Hope they do not F*ck with the formula!
Krokus
Sorry for being incorrect.
It’s the minerals that make it yellow. OK.
Our water has a high chorine level so I amused it was because of that.
Anyway I started to use primer to thin instead of water and the boards are white now.
I may not be as intellegent as you are nor have the experience you have.
I only have been doing EPS for about 2 years now and only done a little over a couple of 100 so I’m kind of a beginner.
Your method sounds to be a good one.
Quote:
Sorry for being incorrect.It’s the minerals that make it yellow. OK.
Our water has a high chorine level so I amused it was because of that.
Anyway I started to use primer to thin instead of water and the boards are white now.
I may not be as intellegent as you are nor have the experience you have.
I only have been doing EPS for about 2 years now and only done a little over a couple of 100 so I’m kind of a beginner.
Your method sounds to be a good one.
Primer sounds like a good alternative to acryllic…I had a problem once doing a fill from an acid splash…thought I would get creative and put some paint in the spackle…once it was sanded it didn’t match…I ended up spraying it again anyway. I am sure chlorine does have an effect on the color. Our water here is really hard AND full of chlorine. I used it once to thin with in the beginning and the next day it had turned yellow. I used bottled Ozarka for a while too but it still turned yellow…dont know if it had chlorine and/or minerals in it…I am thinking it had minerals …because it was “spring” water. ANY impurity will leave its mark once the water is gone. Seems to not be so bad the first day but if it is several days before it gets glassed it seems to get yellower.
Once I started using acryllic…no more yellow foam…
Is the primer you use water based?
Didn’t mean anything about the mineral versus chlorine comment, probably either or both will cause yellowing.
I was just having fun with a spackle thread and trying to help in case someone was having problems…
I am still not completely happy with the fact that epoxy resin, even Greg’s, starts to yellow rather quickly.
Funny …my very first ever EPS/epoxy board that I did almost 3 years ago…is still as white as paper!
I sprayed it with some old Automotive Acryllic laquer clear that I used on my racecar. Must have some pretty good UV blocker in it! I think it was by PPG. Of course you can no longer buy it at the automotive paint store…only nerve killing , cancer causing urethane! Go figure…
Again sorry if I offended you…
Just trying to help.
Krokus
Quote:
I dont use paint to thin my spackle since I am going to paint over it any way.
Since I’m trying to avoid the white spray job, I add the paint as thinner. Sort of one stop shopping, no? Two coats to fill the little holes and that bitch is white!!!