I’ve been doing a lot of experimenting with large boards in juicier then ankle slapper waves. I know a progressive board is the way to go when the surf comes up but I’ve been having so much fun lately with my big boards. The waves are starting to pump here and I can’t bring myself to stop riding my tanker even after getting plenty beatings on it…Haha! I actually expect to get pounded and still can’t stop… Even my Asymmetrical board is on hold for this swell hitting today thru the weekend…
I don’t know if any of you have tried it but there is nothing like screaming down the line on a 12’ tanker in overhead+ waves with your canoe paddle buried in the face of the wave for stability… Its just really fun and a cool variation to the norm… Anyone else into extra large???
This is the only board in my quiver I didn’t shape myself…
12’ Epoxy Mickey Munoz Super Glide Wood…
I found this 10" fin with side bites can handle faster waves…
This is Hydroturf. Great cushion for your butt, knees and feet while paddling
Speechless…looks fantastic, what a finish! Doesn’t it worry you about dinging it… it’s like a work of art that thing!!!
Oh man, about a 2 months ago I went without a leash and lost it into the rocks which mashed the rail. Its got a wood veneer and its epoxy so it took the impact well although it still had a couple gaping holes. I was soooo bummed and kicked myself for not wearing a leash. I wear a thick leash on it now regardless if I’m in front of rocks or not. I don’t want this board to kill someone!!!
Ok so its not Hawaii (a smaller standard of big), and my big board is not on the same scale of big…but
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I know a progressive board is the way to go when the surf comes up but I've been having so much fun lately with my big boards.
This is what I thought when I built ST-1 (Super Taner 1), 10’6"x24"x4". When I built it the idea was for the small mushy stuff… No this board starts to come alive in OH (faces) and is great in DOH. Have not had it out in TOH yet but as long as it is not too fast of a break (big round soft rails == slowish) it likes the size. Sure were not talking as heavy as many Hawain breaks, but I no longer buy into the big boards for small waves thing. If you like big boards you just like big boards and at least for me that is true in all conditions.
I have some more perforance oriented 10’ planned but then I’ll be building the aircraft carrier :). ST-1 can be free stood in flat water while mostly keeping the stringer dry so it has a lot of volume. ST-2 is about the same size but with a lot of the volume taken out. Still a big board though. Looking forward to doing a stand up paddle sometime soon.
b.t.w. that is a pretty board. Can you get an upright picture (straight on to the deck) and a rocker shot…
Aloha! Around here, Ambrose has been the leader in alternative wave riding and general fun in the water activities since …ever. His huge collection of giant boards, and “hoe nalu” paddles from more than 20 years ago is another whole dimension. His boards are super stylish, and his knowledge of the dynamics of riding large boards is a world apart. I saw top local T.C. out on his big board last winter on an overhead day at the Bay. It was easy to tell when sets were coming by watching where he was looking as he was standing around with his paddle. Saw him ride a big one, using the paddle to help him get down the face. He got some hoots on that one. Those super- tankers are kind of a big craze nowdays. Still, any big board is a big danger when the surf gets cranking. “Tanker boards for tanker waves” is the way I see it. Ambrose knows more about these techniques than anyone over here. Aloha…RH
I too have surfed the bigger boards made by Ambrose. 10 years ago it was a smallish 12 footer, last year it was a 12’8". I now have a Lance Carson 11’6" Power Glide, that I have had out in overhead surf. It is way too much fun. My normal board is 11’ so it is not that big of a jump up. I have had my 11 footers out in some DOH surf which is by the way about all I will surf anymore. I’m a big board guy and always will be. I have seen the light. Oh ya 4est there is nothing wrong with soft rails on a big board, infact I think they are more then fast enough and offer a lot on the bigger boards. If I were you I would stay with 50/50 rails maybe go a little eggy if you want something different.
Hahahaha!!! Trailkill is right… FORGET IT!!! Even the tinyest whitewater takes focus to get over while paddling with the canoe paddle. I learned real quick to go around. The speed you can paddle is double so no big time lost going around but the energy saved is priceless…
You just need to accept getting your cracks when surfing these big boards. Yesterday after kicking out of a close out I was greeted with the, “You shoulda checked over the back before you kicked out” set. Its amazing how much of a sinking feeling you can get with so much floatation!!! Hehe…
When I wipe out or get caught inside I try to hold on to my paddle but sometimes you gotta get it away from you. If that’s the case I try to throw it in towards shore cause me and the big log always beat it in… On the other hand I got drilled pretty deep a few times and I use the paddle to help swim up… Kinda a cool thing when it goes right…
OK, just got back from surfing on the North Shore. I got to Haleiwa at first light and it looked angry. 8-10’ Hawaiian scale bumpy and current pulling thru the lineup which is common for Haleiwa. Not the ideal conditions for the 12’ behemoth. Across the channel Puena Pt is looking more manageble with some solid 8’+ sets pouring in around the point but smoother looking…
I paddled from the canoe site at the bridge all the way to the first bowl and it was just firing well over head and very thick. The outside is breaking in big sections and can’t be connected but it was lining up pretty good where I sat with 1 other guy. Had a absolute blast and the sets were pouring in… I got a few small ones at first then a bunch of way overhead screamers. On one I got caught behind and it mowed me down. I bounced off the bottom with my paddle! I held on to it the entire session though…Haha!
Then I caught one of the waves that I’ll always remember. It was the biggest/thickest set of the morning and I let the first 2 waves pass just because I hate to get mowed down by the whole set if I screw up… The other guy got the first one… I lucked out and the 3rd wave was really nice and meaty and I was in position. I started stroking on my knees and got into it pretty early. Took the initial drop OK then it started to really suck out. I backdoored the section and it was sucking so hard I was trying not to pearl the big board. I leaned the paddle into the wall as the wave was just jacking and throwing. At this point I’m falling off into the wave leaning on the paddle trying to stabilize myself. The next few seconds I’ll never forget…
I was so leaned over trying to keep the board from sticking I started actually falling off into the wave face but still leaning on the paddle. I’m talking ALL my weight on the paddle! The wave is just pitching out and I’m thinking I’m gonna fall face first then get sucked over right onto the reef but it never happened!! The wave kept barreling and I kept screaming along! The wave let off and I got upright pretty smoothly and the guy who was out was screaming his head off (maybe that was me…) with a big smile on his face. I raised the paddle up like a salute and rode the wave in… All in the plan… NOT!
I was on the edge and pulled it off! More like saved myself from a sure beating!!! Hahahahahahahaha!!! I love this big board!!!
Oh ya 4est there is nothing wrong with soft rails on a big board, infact I think they are more then fast enough and offer a lot on the bigger boards. If I were you I would stay with 50/50 rails maybe go a little eggy if you want something different.
Oh NO, Bag… I’m happy with the big 50/50 rail. It is just not the best for screeming down the line. ST-1 has a big thick soft 50/50 rails, while ST-2 has a thinner more pinched soft 50/50 rail. I’m very happy so far with the big boards in OH-DOH size range. Especially on the point/reef breaks. Not as fun in big beach break. But had a fun session on the big board in some fast chest-OH beach break.
