Used my “rocker-board” to get the numbers I wanted to start from, then went for a little more.
Working well in the small summer waves.
Blank construction, partial hot wiring, fin box prep fun, fin box setting.
Roller - game changer!!! In relation to the carbonfiber/glass thread, I just use four layers of four ounce with a 45/45 degree patch on the tail, top and bottom, and on the belly/deck area. Rolling all that down was so much easier and tighter than what I was able to get with lots-o-squeegin’ in the past. Don’t know why I waited so long.
The rest are pretty self explanatory - the inner front fin boxes are set for @ 18 degrees of cant; I have some twin fins and trailers I use for the real small mushy stuff…
I didn’t expect the rocker-board to touch as I’d increased the rocker, so I was glad to see that the spacing was nice and even.
So many questions. Nice board! 4 layers of 4oz? Is that because there’s no stringer? What’s going on with the large deck section? Are the multicolored fins in the earlier pics the same as the last pic? Ride report?
Good to see some activity and the thread. Yes I can see the tighter lam that you got with the “buble buster” roller. Laid down nice and tight. Don’t know if you know a guy down your way name Arlen? He’s built a couple of boards from XPS and a wooden board. With the extra layers of four ounce; Are you able to get rid of the squishiness of the foam. Lowel
I took a pic of the dimensions, but suffice to say: 6’7" x 4 7/8", 21.5" W, 17.5" N, 14.5" T
All the fins in the first set of photos are the same - the fins in the pics below are my “mushy wave” set up, in the high cant boxes (As I’m sure you can see…)
The deck “belly” is for buoyancy = better paddling.
The four + layers of glass is for ding resistance - I also drill tiny holes through the glass in the areas that get high use pressure.
It’s been working real well in mushy waves. I’ve been especially pleased with the backside performance.
Lowel - I don’t know the guy.
One thing to add… Looking at some pics of quads… And, as I’m sure I’ve posted in the past, after some great communication with Robin “Hand shaper” Mair years ago, I started a much closer placement of front and rear fins - both on the rail (Again, as you can see in the pics.). Using the RedX boxes is great as I have been able to tweak the spread to dial in just the ride/feel I want. It’s amazing what a difference a quarter inch change makes.
So I am wondering about the squishiness of the foam. I have used foam from the big box stores for repairs on EPS boards and found it to be soft or squishy under a normal Glassing schedule. Do your extra layers remedy that softness. Soft foam is a recipe for extreme denting.
Have you had any issues with delams or outgassing? I made a pink foam board and I got a large delam bubble but it was a quick fix. I think I did 6+4oz top and bottom and have not noticed anything squishy. I also really like your leash attachment.
I’ve always used a heavy glassing schedule as ding protection. My local “secret spot” is basalt rock “reef” and contact is part of the game. As such, I’ve never noticed the foam being squishy, although, it is lighter than the 2lbs eps I used to use.
As I think I mentioned, I drill tiny holes in the pressure areas and haven’t had any issues. I made a board years ago - same method - and, while in mainland Mex, I got a bubble on the deck where my front foot and ass bone hit. I popped it with a knife and carried on - it was about 5" across, I never did anything about it, and later the board buckled there… Ha! Lessons.
The bull-nose corner bead was a once and recent hot-wire guide. It worked great! The rocker-board was primarily to get accurate numbers. One beauty about buiding from a square block: I was able to make accurate measurements from the deck down/up minus/relative to what the flat bottom had been, so I got nice numbers and just checked the relative uniformity after glassing for fun. If I wanted to use it on the foam, while the bolts are 1/4" and filled smooth, I think I’d put a little coat of glue on ‘em to avoid the possibility of catching an edge and tearing more than I’d care for - although, as you can see by the white under the glass, I can be a sloppy mo’fo’ and just putty it in… Ha!
Can you hear that? I’m smacking myself in the head with my shoe! Very innovative. I know that you know what works for you up there and applaud your boards. Photos added to the
I hope you have your helmet on… Ha! Not sure what you’re smaking over, but I’m glad you like it - I’m guessing the bulnose cornerbead. My hotwire confession: I’d not thought about the fact the act of hotwiring vaporizes about an eigth of an inch of foam, so I was fortunate I’d left myself just that much clearance, but I did not get a smooth/“seamless” entry and had to clean up the middle rocker… Hopefully lesson learned.
Just did a logging road quest, on my mtb yesterday, to an inland town and back. Given neck/arm issues and waist high waves, more of an adventure than a paddle would have been.
You’ve inspired me to eventually make the “Uglystick” for this summer. Its a truncated nose, round (as in semicircle) tail with parallel rails. Around the 5’0" mark.
Regarding the roller. How do you do the laps?
Do you wet out the fall and then bring it around from the centre of the board to each end?
With a squeegee I pull a bit towards the ends of the board as I wrap the the lap. Do you keep a similar technique with the roller or just pull it around straight over the rails?
The rails… Sheesh… With four layers I find it a deal.
I used the roller, squeegee, and a brush.
I wet out the deck - squeeg and roller, slowly moving towards the rails… 'Cuz I can be cheap and want to run as little glue on to my floor as possible.
Then I lift the glass away from the rail in the middle and brush on a thick coat of epoxy, put the cloth back down, squeegee, roll, and add resin as needed, working from the middle to the ends, continuing the same squence as needed.
The best deal with the roller (Kinda like hucks thread about the rolled finish…), I kept rolling the deck anywhere I saw delam/bubbles forming. It also helped with carefully “tucking” the concave curves along the belly/rail.
For anyone who how’s curious - remember: With epoxy, vinegar is a good friend, I put the roller in my little tub-o-vinegar, took a tooth brush to it, and then moved to my little tub-o-alchohol, tooth brush, and it was in great shape.
Stoney—- in composite and marine layup; it is what is known as a “bubble buster”. There are many differant types of these rollers. Some are actually stiff bristled fiber, but most are metal. Primary use was intended to pop air bubbles so that the cloth would lay down on uneven surfaces, inside corners etc. works very well with multiple layered layups and matt. Not an expert explanation. Just what I have been told by others.
