summer

well, today is 'supposed' to be the first day of summer here , 'officially' !

 

  It was a 13 degree morning , when I took these ....  but , at least there was a little bit of left over swell from our last few days of batterings !

 

These were  taken  with my mate Rohan's camera.

 

cheers !

 

  ben

 

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 hang on , did someone say "seaweed" ??? ....

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y i k e s

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[ this is certainly not the more usual 'crystal blue , mini peelers , and boardies ['trunks'] conditions' ,  that we get here in summer ..... but hey , early day[s] , still ... there is a 35 degrees C day forecast , before this coming week is finished ! ]

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34 degrees C today , 37 forecast for tomorrow

 

21 degree C water ,

 

waist high waves , shallow as ...fun for a mal rider !

 

[ ALL DAY  offshore , too .... a RARITY , and a BONUS !]

Eric...

this was the dawn session

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Later in the day , down the coast a bit ....

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well, after a 38 degrees C offshore , cloudless day yesterday...

 

  this morning dawned cloudy , northerly , and ...seemingly ...flat !!

 

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he who gets up early , watches and waits , is 'sometimes' rewarded eh ?!

 

 after watching three groms hit it , and floundering on their tiny little wafers of boards , this guy raced back home and within fifteen minutes was paddling out into empty tiny but mal fun-able little deepwater peelers

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ah yesssss ,

 

9' of rail HELPS  , sometimes . I used the 6.5" shapers fin you gave me , beery . No sides. Worked a TREAT !!

 

[ the right tool for the job makes a difference , I reckon !]

had an hour of these , fun fun fun

 

  poor groms

 

:)

 

  cheers

 

  ben

A minor miracle !

sunday [yesterday]

 

After a blustery cool offshore [pre-sunrise] , it became a 35 degree C day , again ...offshore till 2pm , too...THAT'S always GOOD !

 

smaller and less crowded than saturday .

Beautiful light , and waves , at 5am onwards ...soon , it will be light enough to surf at 4.15am ....YEWWWWW !!  ON it ! ...

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Boyd...

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'Shorty' , hard at 'work' ...

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Here’s a shot of Ben at work…

 

 

Got enough GoPros there Ben ???

 

and , in case he misses the shot [?] , the surfer has one , on the nose of the board , eh ?

 

  all good , got it covered , I think ?

 

[IS that for real , Brett ?  what is the idea , I wonder ?  any clue ?]

 

  cheers

 

  ben

Craig ,

 

on an M.R.  " twinny with trailer " option board .  He was riding it as a thruster , this day ...

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 .... alice [ well, Perth, actually ?!] through the looking glass .....

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spit in the eye

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 Some waves still had a bit of leftover devil wind [southerly] wonkiness [from the night before's winds ] .....

.....but ....

 it was still PLENTY rideable, early on ....nice and EMPTY , too  [ that's just how I like it !]

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len , right

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 and vinnie , on a small left ...

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Sometimes , you can strike GOLD ,  if you go looking / get out there every day ...

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the day after the [supposed] "end of the world", good ol' Vinnie adopts the "crucifix noseride pose "...

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the view south , towards the 'ironman contest' site  [ /  the circus is in town ! ]....

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I rode THIS today , before taking the photos you see , above .

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 It went well .... it was  nice to ride a twin keel setup in the fatarsed Walden !!

 

 cheers !

   ben

Chip-

Looks like fun…Thanks for the pics.

thanks , mate !

 

it has been amazing , having some swell, offshores and shape .

 

I know it will end soon , but I'm enjoying it while it lasts

 

and hope that sharing it gets the S T O K E  going ?

 

  a bit like L I F E , I guess , really ...

 

  cheers

 

  ben

 

 I hope you are ALL getting good waves , and have a safe and merry chrismas , and a really happy new year [just in case 'Sways' goes "off air " again between now and my january 3rd birthday ]  

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from last summer's Fujifilm water camera [R.I.P. Friday 13th january [yep!] , 2012]

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cool EARLY on , sometimes ...this was the last day of november , a day before summer 'officially' began , but the 1st of december was also cool in the morning , this year !

Marty , on his Colin Earle board ...

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Nice shots Ben we just got back from a few days away 2ft beachy and no one else on it for three days.

.... beautiful !

 

  fun fun fun

 

  good on ya Tom !

 

  what board[s] and fin[s] did you take ?

 

 

  cheers

 

  ben