Surfboard survey (What do you ride?)

I have been curious to see what types of boards people like best and why. You know, I wanna hear about that “magic” board. I am hoping to have a good turnout for this posting. Please post replies here, so we can all learn a little, but if you don’t want certain items public, feel free to email me instead (kontoes@hawaii.edu).

Details are good, but to keep things semi-standardized, please follow this format for replies.

1) Your height

  1. Your weight

  2. Board length

  3. Type of board (i.e. shorty, log, fish, egg …)

5) Dimensions

 nose  = 

 center =

 tail =

 thickness = 

6) Fin setup (i.e. twin , thruster, single …)

7) Surfing style (i.e cruising, airs, cutbacks, noseriding …)

8) Extras… (tail type, contours, rocker, rails, why you like it)

My turn…

  1. Your height = 6’2"

  2. Your weight = 190 lbs

  3. Board length = 6’8"

  4. Type of board = Egg

  5. Dimensions

nose = 17

center = 20.25

tail = 14.75

thickness = 2.75

  1. Fin setup = thruster

  2. Surfing style = carving

  3. Extras… round tail, ridden it at v-land, waikiki, pipeline (small day), great all-a-rounder, tail is a little wide for bigger stuff though.

my other magic board (R.I.P.)

  1. Your height = 6’2"

  2. Your weight = 190 lbs

  3. Board length = 9’4"

  4. Type of board = Longboard

  5. Dimensions

nose =

center = 22

tail =

thickness = 3

  1. Fin setup = 11" single

  2. Surfing style = noserideing, modern LB stuff

  3. Extras… round tail, knee high to a few feet over head, Mike Michington Saber model, alot of v and huge double concave in back 1/3.

Quote:

1) Your height 1.85

  1. Your weight 104kg

  2. Board length 9’6", 8’7", 7’6", 6’6"

  3. Type of board (i.e. shorty, log, fish, egg …) log, minimal, thruster, keelfish

5) Dimensions

 nose  =  

 center = 

 tail = 

 thickness

6) Fin setup (i.e. twin , thruster, single …) single (+2), single, thruster, twin

7) Surfing style (i.e cruising, airs, cutbacks, noseriding …) glide!! noseride, wide arcing turns, carving, attempts at getting cover when available…

8) Extras… (tail type, contours, rocker, rails, why you like it) like concaves, I’m heavy so they help in mush, I like big fins.

Quote:
  1. Your height = 5’7 1/2" (when you’re this short the 1/2" counts)

  2. Your weight = 64 Kgs

  3. Board length = 6’0

  4. Type of board = Shortboard 5) Dimensions

nose = 11 1/4"

center = 18 3/8

tail = 13 3/4"

thickness = 2 1/4"

  1. Fin setup = Glass on 4 1/4" hexalites

7)round tail , single concave. Other boards, 6’3 x 18 x 2 5/16 mid range rounded pin 6’8 x 18 x 2 3/8 pin tail, best surfboard I have ever ridden, and various mals and fish.

i’ve had a couple boards i’d consider “magic,” so i’ll contribute.

board #1:

1)height= 6’0"

2)weight= aprox. 175lbs

  1. Board length= 6’4"

  2. Type of board the first was a 6’4" “modern fish” that i got when i was 17. i don’t have the board anymore, but there are days i wish i did.

5) Dimensions

 nose  = 13.75

 center = 20"

 tail = 15"

 thickness = 2 5/8"

6) Fin setup twin w/ trailer (FCS, so i mess w/ the fin set up a lot)

7) Surfing style carving

8) Extras… shallow swallow tail w/ slight wings, slight single to double concave. it had a basic 6oz. glass job w/ 4oz. patches on the deck. i liked it b/c it was great in anything from knee-high mush to overhead juice. i rode it as my only board from age 17 to age 22 & it held up great. it was the first board that i really studied to learn how it worked & tried to understand what different design features did & how bottom contour & fin set affected performance.

board #2:

1)height= 6’0"

2)weight= aprox. 175lbs

  1. Board length= generally around 6’4"

  2. Type of board bonzer 3

5) Dimensions

 nose  = 14.5"

 center = 20.5"

 tail = 13.75"

 thickness = 2 5/8"

6) Fin setup 6" center fin in a box w/ 2 big glassed on side runners

7) Surfing style carving

8) Extras… very 70’s…diamond tail w/ a BIG double concave running thru most of the back half of the board. the thing kicks in anything from waist high to head & a half, which is as big as i’ve had it out in. but it really rocks in about head-high surf. i think it would do quite well in double overhead surf as well, even if it’s a little wide for bigger surf. it’s my first bonzer & it had me convinced from the first wave.

Interesting thread: My current fave is:

1) Your height 6 2

  1. Your weight 225lbs

  2. Board length 6 4

  3. Type of board quad

5) Dimensions

nose = 13.5

center = 21.5

tail = 15.75

thickness = 2 3/4

6) Fin setup (i.e. twin , thruster, single …) speed dialer quad

7) Surfing style (i.e cruising, airs, cutbacks, noseriding …) fun…drivey

8) Extras…a 1/8" single concave from mid point to tail, rails - hard up until mid point where they sften somewhat, deep ish swallow tail

My current fave board is made from epoxy and glass over eps foam with no stringer.

  1.   5'10" 
    
  2.   96kg 
    
  3.   6'3" / 190cm 
    
  4.   Maladjusted short board 
    

nose 20 11/16" / 526mm

ctr 25 1/16" / 636mm

tail 18 1/4 / 463 mm

thik 3 15/16" / 100mm

  1.  thruster with custom made set fins 
    
  2.  carving 
    
  3.  concave to concave V, 86 litres volume, paddles great, for surf upto 4 ft
    

today

yesterday

and thursday

  1. Your height 67’’

  2. Your weight 169?

  3. Board length 11’1’'-flatliner mat -12’3 [clark foam v-d morph]

  4. Type of board (i.e. shorty, log, fish, egg …) articulated glideliner

dale solomonson neumatic

tandem standup handpaddle glidemaster

  1. Dimensions

nose = 16 1/2------171/2

center = 21 1/2------24’’

tail = 15’'----------16 3/4

thickness = 3 5/8-------4 3/8

  1. Fin setup (i.e. twin , thruster, single …)

single contoured rake double what rainbow calls rake

made for me by rainbow in small batches

8 3/4------9 3/4

  1. Surfing style (i.e cruising, airs, cutbacks, noseriding …) connecting long line trims

  2. Extras… (tail type, contours, rocker, rails, why you like it)

#1 extra ,me

double concaves ahead of fin

subtle changes relieved rail forward in form of chine into flat into concaves relieved into flattened tail rail to rail

rocker in to tail

round rails tapered to tail

small round

allowing for direction change w/out xcessive tracking

not light

dings older than most boards

prone riding par excelance

thursdaywhy

stand up backside trim in the curl line

flying paddle in outside hand

off shore wind

moment in time

lock in at makaiwa

one of six waves

worthy of years of makaiwa study.


today

why …pae e ke nalu…all the way to the beach

from way out at black rock

connecting accross reform deadzone

into third break

and then the inside lagoon

worthy of yeears of black rock study


yesterday why

giant drops at south peak wedge at black rock

aloof from stand up enthusiasts

and surfboard scrabbling

deriving a sinus full cocktail

of sacred salt water

and fresh water from the waialeale watershed

piko of the island I live on

worthy of five years?

of neumatic study.


all rights reserved for the pure of heart

…ambrose…

I think my fish is magic, because i made it, and it actually works!!!.

1.) 5 10

2.) 85kg ( 160lb??? )

3.) 6’ 2’’

4.) Supercharged twin keel fish.

5.) 16’‘n x 22’’ wide @ + 3’’ x 16’’ x 3’’

6.) twin keel with 2 1/2 x 2 3/4 super chargers, and most of the time a trailer ( 5 fin fish?? haha )

7.) been surfing for around 19 months, so, usually fast and flowy is my aim, but with the superchargers lately i have found i can do tighter arc turns. I really like flying across the face as fast as i can, then coming off the bottom , and linking it up with a flowing turn off the top, IF im having a good day!!!

8.) Shallow swallow. Very wide and thick, but i like the float, paddle, and speed.

I’m 5’6" and weigh 165 lbs soon to be 49. I had a bunch of great boards over the years. One I especially liked was a Downing 6’6" x 19" squash tail thruster with what he called a bong fin. Got that in 1986, and it was the biggest board I rode for a while, but it was a good one. I have a 7’ 2" x 19" x 2 1/2" BK for bigger powerful waves that is another good board. My 2 favorite boards right now are a 6’ x 20 1/2" x 2 1/2" 5 fin fish made by Greg Griffin. It’s a great all around south shore board for me. I also have a home made 8’ x 21 1/2" x 2 3/4" compsand single fin egg that I use as my longboard. Paddles like a 10’ board, but turns like a shortboard. Add a set of sidebites and it can handle 10’ faces.

I don’t pay much attention to the nose or tail dims, since I always buy off the rack. I have to see it, and feel it before I buy it. I like to ride close to the pocket, but I’m too old for airs. I also like to ride a wave until you can’t go any further, so good paddling is important.

I have loads of boards, but this is the One

  1. Your height 5’8"

  2. Your weight 168

  3. Board length 7’6"

  4. Type of board Campbell Egg

5) Dimensions

7’6 X 21 X 2 3/4

6) Fin setup Bonzer 5

7) Surfing style Cutbacks & turns & toobs, staying connected with the source

8) Extras… a small sprinkling of Malcoms Fairy dust & top class resin work by Moonlight, dings by me

1) Your height 6’5"

  1. Your weight 200lbs

  2. Board length 6’6"

  3. Type of board (i.e. shorty, log, fish, egg …)shorty

5) Dimensions

nose = got to check

center = 19.25

tail =got to check

thickness =2.6

6) Fin setup (i.e. twin , thruster, single …) thruster, lokbox (best fin for big guy,all the rest just break)

7) Surfing style (i.e cruising, airs, cutbacks, noseriding …) hacks, barrels, roundhouse

8) Extras… (tail type)pin,good for home soup bowl get sucky

1) Your height 5’8"

  1. Your weight 145 lbs

  2. Board length 5’11"

  3. Type of board new fish

5) Dimensions

nose = 12.38"

center = 19.25"

tail = 15.24"

thickness = 2.25"

6) Fin setup thruster, futures vector 3/2 with hatchet trailer

7) Surfing style cruising, cutbacks, floaters

8) Extras… swallow tail, low rocker, fast

Thanks to those who posted, but, I think we need a few more posts. It’ll only take a minute.

Thanks.

1) Your height 6’2"

  1. Your weight 215

The rest are averages. I ride everything from a 5’11"fish to a 12’ Softtop, but most often ride (and make) :

  1. Board length 10’1"

  2. Type of board Noserider

5) Dimensions

18.5" x 23.5 x 16.5" x 3 1/4"

6) Fin setup Single

7) Surfing style staying in the pocket with a combination of cross-steps & retreats & cutbacks & the occasional noseride. Lots of little steps from edge to edge, not just up & back.

8) Extras… Very low nose rocker, late kick in the tail, long sweet spot in the middle. No concaves, no hard edges on the rails, pinched rails on the ends, full rails in the middle, big patch for knee paddling

Quote:

1) Your height 5/10

  1. Your weight 1 siddy

  2. Board length 9’2 and 9’4

  3. Type of board Noserider

5) Dimensions

i like my noses below 18 inches and my boards a little over 3 thick

6) Fin setup Single

7) Surfing style down the line speed longboarding. all trim. riding from nose to tail and everywhere in between. 8) Extras… I too am a small stepper. and I hate edges!!! ANd I have recently fallen in love with belly from nose to tail, the whole way through.

  1. Your height 6’3

  2. Your weight 193

  3. Board length 6’0 quad fish, 6’6 quad shorty, 9’1 LB

  4. Type of board Fish, Thumb tail shorty, Thumb tail LB

  5. Dimensions 6’ x 22 x 2 1/2 PU/PE + 6’6 x 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 EPS/Epoxy + 9’1 x 23 x 3 1/4 PU/PE

  6. Fin setup Quad, quad, single

  7. Surfing style Shitty but I love fast cutbacks and roundhouses

There’s a thruster or three in there but they are all for sale.

1) Your height 5’9"

2) Your weight 145 lbs.



3) Board length 9’1"

  1. Type of board pin tail longboard

5) Dimensions

 nose  =  18"

 center = 22-3/4"

 tail = 15"

 thickness =  2-7/8"

6) Fin setup 9" Farberow Flex

7) Surfing style all-around, comp longboard

8) Extras… widepoint forward, ample nose concave, good tail rocker, 60/40 rails, downrail nose, tucked edge, hard out the back, VERY lightweight


3) Board length 9’2"

4) Type of board pin tail longboard

5) Dimensions

  nose  =  18-1/4"

  center = 22-7/8"

  tail = 14"

  thickness = 3"

6) Fin setup 9.5" Island Fin Designs Sunset Cutaway

7) Surfing style all-around

8) Extras… Hobie “Fusion”


3) Board length 9’2"

4) Type of board diamond tail longboard

5) Dimensions

   nose  =  18"

   center = 23"

   tail = 14-3/4"

   thickness = 3"

6) Fin setup 8" Fibre Glass Fin Co. standard template, option for Futures sidebites

7) Surfing style all-around

8) Extras… revival of my 9’0" Robert August “What I Ride” that I broke in half a few months ago. pieced it back together, added wood nose and tail block to extend length an additional 2" and change to diamond tail. i call it the “What I Rode”.


3) Board length 9’6"

4) Type of board square tail longboard

5) Dimensions

   nose  =  18-1/2"

   center = 23-1/8"

   tail = 15-1/2"

   thickness = 3-1/8"

6) Fin setup 10" Fibre Glass Fin Co. pivot template

7) Surfing style traditional

8) Extras… flat, downrail nose


3) Board length 9’10"

4) Type of board square tail longboard

5) Dimensions

   nose  =  19"

   center = 23"

   tail = 16-1/2"

   thickness = 3-3/8"

6) Fin setup 10.75" Rainbow Fin Co. “Wingnut: Anchor”

7) Surfing style noserider

8) Extras… 5/16" basswood center stringer w/ (2) 1/8" cedar sticks 1/2" out, semi-opaque yellow tint bottom w/ abstract red sunburst and red pinline.


more in the quiver…but those are the go-to sticks. workin’ on adding a few new shred sleds to the mix (will update in a month or two).

  1. 5’5"

  2. 138 lbs.

  3. 9’0"

  4. Longboard

  5. 17" x 22"x 14" x 2 3/4"

  6. Single fin

  7. One of my own shapes, this board bit of a cruiser but the soft low rails that harden in the tail enable you to pull off quicker moves when you want to. The subtle nose concave flattens out thru the mid section then transitions into a moderate VEE peaking in front of the fin, flattening off towards the tail. This board has been my primary longboard for the last 5 years. My the deck has sunken in a bit to conform to my body making it really comfortable to paddle. It’s been one half of my active quiver, the other half being one of my fishes. Which of late happens to be a:

    6’0"

    Fish

    16" x 21" x 16" x 2 1/2" 13" swallow tip to tip

    Twin keel (Future fins)

    808shapes by M. McDonald. I have a twin keel I shaped too, but could’nt help ordering this board frecentaly from a friend who started doing one of his first boards in my shaping room. That was about 4 years ago and his abilities have improved leaps and bounds, with a reputation for shaping great riding short, midsized and longboards. This fish was highly influenced by a Merrick fish he saw going through the factory where he shapes at. The rather moderate single concave splitting into a double into a slight vee out the tail makes this board feel quite fast. I was surprised at how modern the board felt in comparison to the fish I shaped. Getting vertical was no problem, I did a snap off the top that was so easy to pull off. It would even tail slide, in control, on really fast cutbacks, something I had’nt done in a very long time. The only bummer I’m facing with this board right now is that I’m suffering from some kind of tendonitis in both my elbows making it really difficult getting to my feet when riding this board. I’m gonna be relegated to riding my longboard till my arms get stronger.