… well, FINALLY !
Conditions …
head-high scarbs , some a bit bigger
fairly fullish , but , thankfally , wind-free for the first 80 minutes [i should have got out there at 6.20, instead of 7am!]
i caught four lefts
and four rights
fins ?
i opted to ride it as a bonzer today , as i figured 6’ of rail + fattish waves , + a single fin may = more drive needed .
“beerfan” , i used your green 7" singley ,
and some almost colour match bonzer runners [minus cant] that i made a few years ago now …with the probox 6 degree inserts , they were not totally upright , though !
the runners [3" deep , 5" base ] had just enough area for a bit of extra thrust on the bottom turns , and were noticeable on one backhand roundhouse , i could feel them grip then release nicely !!
having come off riding a 9’4 mal for the last few months , a 6’ x 20 sure feels like a small board.
i had to remember to keep my chin down , take an extra paddle or two , and takeoff a bit deeper than i normally do on the long[er] boards i ride [eg: 7’ single fin]
one backhand pigdog on a "semi hollow" left felt particularly nice , i just wish the wave had held up
fun fun fun
thanks ‘thing’ , for helping make a really nice board …the vee , the harder rails , and the better rocker is CERTAINLY a BIG improvement on my past boards , THANKS AGAIN !!
It was nice to be leaving the beach just as the early onshore kicked in [it’s been howling here for weeks now!] , and to be able to tell Wade “you guys REEEEEALLLLYYYYYY missed it …you shoulda been here an hour …etc” hahahahh
to be continued
i’ll probably ride it just as a singley next time , as in theory that IS what i designed it to be …a 6’ stubby single fin
many thanks for the inspiration from chris brock , michael peterson , and ritchie west [and alby falzon and george greenough , for documenting them back in the early 1970s !! ] for their original stubby performances [i particularly like the one ritchie shows , in ‘Crystal Voyager’
…to be continued …
[i have a “few” fins to try out on this board , too, by the way !! ]
cheers
ben ++