thanks ben!
I LOVE that stormriders footage… and him on that little kuta left in bali too!
… i can hardly bear to watch the snap footage though…
…I remember reading he had a “little voice in his head” saying something like “don’t ride this board today”…
I watched a guy heading into the water at North Avoca today with the MR “80s” twin, it looked great! i was interested to see the fins were of the same template as the super twin without the trailor. I then went home to grab my MR but by the time i got to North Avoca the mystery man was gone…
SINGLE fin! this time….
I read a quote in an old surfing mag from MR saying “i’ve never been style consience, i just wanted to rip the shit out of the wave with nats animal agression”
his first wave in the movie “fantasea” demonstrates that pretty well! but he still had a nice style to watch.
MR rips, plain and simple.
I love watching old videos of him surf. He was my main inspiration growing up. I was born in 68, and was therefore at the perfect age to admire his style, both in and out of the water. Friendly, humble, and had the most unique style of his peers.
Makes me want to order one of his boards.
I may be wrong? and perhaps we need Mark to confirm this but a few years ago i recall seing that beloved snapped 6’4" in one piece from a snap repair… i think it might have been put back together.
A few days ago on the way home from a trip away, i dropped into his shop. He was there and was very helpful when i asked him about spiral vee bottoms. Oh, and his boards are the sweetest looking boards on the planet. If i could have i would have bought a twinnie and a single fin, they are fu&*en unreal!!!
he has a loyal following , just by being a quiet friendly guy , and ripping in the water .
A lesson for us ALL , surely…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ydmLMo-ev8
1986 TV Commercial about MR. Classically Cool!
Still ripping, on one of his supertwins.
Wilko on a 1970s twinfin at Avoca Point.
This is one of the Brewer templates he got with his shaping lessons from Brewer.
5’10"x20.5"
Thanks for sharing Greg!
have you ever made any boards of the template?
Cheers!
I used it to make my twins for Local Motion in 1980 because that was the look.
I used it in 1995 to make my retro fishes for Russ K. Makaha to be sent to japan, those were without wings.
In 2003 i started making fishes for T&C and used this template as the beginning,without wings again.
Thanks for sharing Greg!
Cheers!