Any tips on colour for EPS???
from memory, the general consensus seems to be:
- craft-store acrylic paint. any brand.
- futures acrylic floor polish
- purified water
- all mixed 1:1:1
...
do a search for posts by "atomized", "mahana", "stingray", ... i'm sure there are others but those come to mind...
also, recently, there was a post by a guy (sorry forgot the name) that said that he uses acrylic house paint if i remember correctly... i'm not sure how he mixed it...
i've used craft-store (tempera) mixed with water 1:1 and had pretty good results. i plan to add the futures floor polish next time though.
oops
Is acrylic compatable with EPS? (and epoxy)......I assumed it wasn't , so I never even attempted ! hahaha !
THX chrisp-- I try some
Hey Kayu,
The Americans are almost certainly refering to water-based acrylic. (There are heavy emission laws attached to the use of petroleum based paints in the US)
You cannot put the typical Aussie industry car-paint thinners based acrylic on EPS. No guesses why...
I do filler coat sprays, the only sure way to avoid any potential delamination issues paint on EPS may cause.
Josh
yah, i should have specified 'water-based' acrylic...
also should have mentioned Speedneedle...
if you haven't seen 'em, his sprays are famous around here,
some jaw-dropping work
yah, i should have specified 'water-based' acrylic...
also should have mentioned Speedneedle...
if you haven't seen 'em, his sprays are famous around here,
some jaw-dropping work
[quote="$1"]
yah, i should have specified 'water-based' acrylic...
also should have mentioned Speedneedle...
if you haven't seen 'em, his sprays are famous around here,
some jaw-dropping work
[/quote]
It has to be water based paint with EPS foam.....Poly foam too.... I'm a low dollar backyard guy ,I use craft store paint and distilled water. Not the best......works for me.
Nova color gets talked about quite often. Add your location to your profile. If you need help doing a search let me know.
Ray
[quote="$1"]
yah, i should have specified 'water-based' acrylic...
also should have mentioned Speedneedle...
if you haven't seen 'em, his sprays are famous around here,
some jaw-dropping work
OK Chrisp , I,m curently using water-based epoxy , so , water-based acrylic should be sweet? I read somewhere recently that Harbour has canned all colour on their eps hand shapes because of delam problems with the paint they were using - sure it was epoxy paint - which is kinda surprising bec the paint I was intending to use for some EPS boards was guarenteed to give a good bond ie. no delam if sanded and cleaned properly..........haha! I always try this stuff on scrap foam.........as ya do
Hey Josh, thx for the info. Regarding filler coat sprays , you mean polyester hot coat on compatable epoxy........ like the epirez or the klnetix stuff??
I mean kinetix (A T L )...........................apologies for so many posts in a short space of time, but there is a rumour goin round that u get a free set of steak knives if you reach 50 points
in your
first week !!!
Hey Kayu,
Whats your real name mate?...your work looks sweet and its a surprise that you are a latecomer to Sways. I spent some time on the Gold Coast, so I'm sure I'll have heard of you.
I use epoxy for filler coats and spray on the sanded filler ("Hot" coat for the Americans.)
The water-based epoxy sounds interesting. I'd like to know more. BUT...
ANY layer of paint between foam and glass will affect the bond. Particularly with EPS. Two things:-EPS does'nt have cells like PU, only the very fine gaps between beads, which you will be filling with paint:- There's no hollow little pits of texture for the resin to cling into...And, paint is a form of grease, so It'd be like lathering up your shape with vaseline...say no more.
I don't entertain the resin brands' claim that polyester filler coat is do-able. That's bollocks. And what would be the point anyway? Turnaround time for my composite boards is a month minimum. Why rush it with a hot-mix polyester filler coat?
I work with both on a daily basis and I don't have hassles with epoxy unless I'm rushing things.
The argument for polyester on epoxy is one thats been hotly debated here. I can only speak from the experience of having seen clubby paddleboards with big peeling shards of filler falling off.
So don't tell me you do it!?
I did polyester for pros in 24hr turnaround. Polyester is fine if you want to bust your gut overnight for smartarses to get on the plane in the morning.
Anyway...Thats my rant tonight...don't take it personally. And you're on the way to some well-deserved steak knives!
Josh
Hey Josh
Do you spray with thinner based acrylics or water based acrylics on your sanded epoxy fill coats??
And what do you seal it with??
I was going to spray an acrylic clear coat on my sanded epoxy for a finish coat but was talked out of it here on sways.
Now i just do a sanded epoxy finish coat
And I like the look better than spray acrylic.
What about acrylic (water based or thinner based) art sprayed onto epoxy fill coat, then sealed with epoxy finish coat. sanded or polished???
Cheers
Well Josh, I don't use poly at all.....Don't even have any in the shed. I come from a boat building background ( pre- safety regulation days ), and if I didn't get out when I did , I'd maybe be dead by now , from suckin in the fumes all day with no mask. But !...I do know guys who have success with certain epoxy resins , such as the ones I mentioned in the last post. Personally, I'm not interested in polyester, or polyurethane foam because its total regression - some people refuse to face this , but you can't postpone the inevitable ! The EPS just keeps gettin better , and when an epoxy glassing system gets accepted as industry standard , well , thats it.........it just gets accepted as normal practise ....it already is for some shapers now . The only thing is , a glass job IMO, looks so much better when the colour is on the foam , you know, stringers exposed etc . Then, you just got a straight-up epoxy laminate in clear ...........allover it sounds so simple eh !!! I have come to the conclusion that it is a very complicated process to truely achieve simplicity !!!!!!
Hey Kayu.
I’ve been getting great results from Blick Acrylic. It’s cheap and comes in so many colors. To prep do at least 2 coats of light weight spackle to seal and fill in all the EPS holes and things. Then mix 75% paint / 25% water and spray through an air gun. Only bad thing, you have to be very careful while sanding laps to not got through the paint.
Kayu...good to hear it. I get on a wagon about mixing the two resins...But I still take orders for Polys as well as my high-falutin' composites because there's still demand. And last-minute Indo guns a speciality.
I hear you on the depth-of-lam thing...I get this with the sprays taped off to leave the rail timber uncovered, and of course the all-wood ones get only a little pinstriping.
mds...make sure you have fastidiously checked your sanded boards for any pinholes. Scrape resin into anything you find. I have used suncure, or araldite but a proper mix if theres a number of them.
My shapes are all cabosil sealed and re-scuffed before lamination.
I sometimes need to "cheater coat" double layer deck lams which have a tendency to drain a little and develop pinholes when you walk away...especially on unsealed EPS...unless you are one of those super-wet laminators who dribble it everywhere. I check and cheater it for insurance because a filler coat is not certain to get in there. (Cheater coat - Sqeegee another small mix ,work it in hard after your lam has begun to tack off)
Epoxy finish coats are great, never had any dramas, even over paint, and it can be buffed. Wetrubbing epoxy means more grit changes from 400 through to 1500, and a slow speed buff. Sanded epoxy finish will feel silkier than a acrylic...I know the feel you mean...it is nicer.
I do thinners based paint because water-based is painful when airbrushing those little details. I use 2pac if its to be a polish. I'm reviewing the wisdom of using 2pac...its nasty stuff but its tough and relatively easy to buff. I can also fill any remaining pinholes in process with a little technique.
The bulk of my boards are 2pac bottom, acrylic "pro-finish" deck...because I can't be arsed polishing decks...wax and deckgrip thirty seconds after the customer picks it up!
Acrylic won't seal pinholes. It may initally appear to have, but it shrinks alot and pulls back to open up again.
The most critcal thing for longevity with EPS/Epoxy is avoiding pinholes!
Josh
quote
The argument for polyester on epoxy is one thats been hotly debated
here. I can only speak from the experience of having seen clubby
paddleboards with big peeling shards of filler falling off.
So don’t tell me you do it!?
haaaaa josh you just stiring the pot
you did give one clue as to why it will work but i dont think many listen
2 pac nasty nasty for your health give it up.
just polish the epoxy more time but it will come up
**contrary to comon belief on here i often polish epoxy **
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