Thanks for the info Josh
I was a bit worried about thinner based reacting to the epoxy.
Also apart from being painful to spray, water based paints seem to take forever to dry.
I know what you mean about pin holes too, I built a SU paddle and finished it a clear acrylic spray can.
Looked like an aero bar when it dried.
Cheers
Hey Josh, plenty of good advice there and Im hearing ya !.........I got a standard , first step process for all resin on EPS -- Q - celled epoxy prime coat , then leave it for a day then sand it . The only reason is to lower the viscosity of the epoxy , so the foam doesn't drink it. It still soaks in , but not near as much as a thin coat. Any taped up wood will be a few microns below the prime coat level, so another paint of clear on the wood will bring everything to "even" for a fine grit sand. It's an extra process , but seems to eliminate the pin holes . Bare in mind , I'm a relative beginner when it comes to glassed EPS , becuase my stuff has always been wood and lean more towards the functional rather than the cosmetic, but my cogs are startin to turn.........slowly.
Hey Josh, just broswed ur website !..........................................all class
water based epoxy ? do you mean boat craft pacific.
Thats what I'm using today,Huie,with some good results . If you've tried it, I'd be interested to hear what you think....
yea the pict above is boatcraft pacific fast hardner.
**a t l prble a bit in front **
i am sensitised to the bloody stuff i gota look like a f##ken spaceman to do any work
Oh right, that botecote water-based 2pac! yeah tried that...it was my great white hope for a non-toxic finish.
It gets into any weave exposed by sanding and goes milky. The same way as a raw sanded board will with water eventually but it happens same day. Looks shite. It would be good if you did a finish coat THEN sprayed the botecote on...but that'd be daft would'nt it?
The pics are a keeper board of mine over 2yrs old...at least it never got worse...the white weave which looks like shatters or dry lam is actually sanded weave (...god save my mortal soul!) where water from that botecote stuff has soaked in and been trapped.
I did three with it, and they all had this problem...They were done in Currumbin. Humidity ??
On the positive side, that stuff took a seriously hard grinding with the buffer...Its TOUGH!
Have you had a better result with it? I'd LOVE to make it work..
Josh
was your lam coat also done with bote- cote , or a non waterbased epoxy ? I sealed up as normal, then used the boatcraft system all the way through to their finish coat --took a few coats to get above the weave though.........no problems so far,touch wood
Maybe thats it...compatible brand resin throughout...
No, that board was in RR...the others were Fibreglass Hawaii and ATL...
Josh
Josh, I been sealin up the EPS with R180, because I didn't want to put waterbased straight on EPS......seems to work OK.........so far
i use a lot of r180 . mostly for plug installs but also on my wood and vacuum bagging. the issue i have with it on white boards is the yellowing. other than that its great to work with…
maybe you could use color pigment and epoxy resin to do foam colors? it would take time but might solve any bonding issues.
R180's got no uv inhibitors in it Dave. You can put some powder in it and it will stay clear-------- and they make a clear hardener as well as the brown stuff-..........all in all, its a glue , but it never fails.
Hey Josh
Where did you get the RR???
I could never get hold of any in OZ
Cheers
fellas this resin talk is starting to get all mixed up
i am not sure were its going. finishing or painting
josh boatcraft pacific have a new epoxy clear hardner. since you were up here
atl r 180 is formulated for surfboards& as dave said it yellows & so does the other
**but i am hearing about a new one might be the bees nuts , cant say to much more though
**
Hey Kayu
Love what I’ve seen of your work so far. I know this thread was about painting eps and has morphed into a broader area involving Aussie available epoxy etc as Huie said .
But while Yourself , Josh , Huie and Dave are here it seems like a good opportunity to get some fundamental advice from blokes with experience using Aussie epoxy. Personally I’ve only used the Kinetics R104 and R246 but aren’t familiar with R180, is it from ATL ? The R104 has stayed clear on timber veneer boards that I did 2 1/2 yrs ago but these aren’t daily riders.
What I’m really interested in is your thoughts on best resins for under the skins , setting boxes and plugs and lam and fill.
Don’t really want to use R104 under skins if there is a product that performs just as well but is cheaper. I’ve only used R104 to fillcoat and found it will polish well although nothing like Huie’s mirrors ha ha. Maybe the Bote-Cote clear over the top. Anyone using West System product ? There seems to be bias against West is this correct ? Anyway all your thoughts appreciated.
Cheers
Mooneemick
Hey Kayu
On the paint issue I’ve used Matisse artist acrylics for their colourfast quality.
The Matisse acrylic ink is great for airbrush pins over the fillercoat / under gloss.
Cheers
Mooneemick
G'day Mooneemick, R180 is from FGI. Reliable stuff , best ive found for wood on foam . It's very high viscosity when you mixit straight, so some q-cell will stop it from sucking right through timber . Its the go-to epoxy for anything structural for me. It hasn't got UV filter for use on the outside, but you can add it if you want for clear. Also their bottle pump system is clean accurate and user friendly
I've only used kinetix a few times, but it was developed specifically for surfboards with performance input from D.V.S & Peter Mo , who do more EPS shaping and glassing than anyone else in Australia that I'm aware of ,and have done for over ten years.( except for maybe fire-wire more recently) so there is a connection somewhere between kinetics and west sytem,maybe base chemicals , formulas ( too technical for me). any way west system was developed specifically cold moulded boat construction, so thats what it is.
The "show your wood thread" was a winner Mick.- so many nice boards , from so many people from all over the world - just good to see. Thx . . . REgards Kayu
Re R180.
its good value. its about $450 for a 25kg kit… its great for plugs as it doesnt get too hot. its viscosity is thin so it soaks into the foam nicely to give a good hold. its an easy mix ratio… 5:1 so additions on the fly are easy for those who had low scores at maths at school (eg me).
i have also had excellent results with it on wood. i will track down thier additives for UV. i have to order some stuff from FGI on monday. i add qcell or micro balloons to it if i want it thicker and also leave in the pot for a few minutes mixed if i want it to go off quicker… i definitly reccomend it.
Feral dave - Good to know you like FGI R180...thats the one I use currently, I have found it a good resin all round. And I have ready supply from their division down here, so convenience plus. I have not been aware that they have a UV additive. I'd like to know more because ultimately I want to remove 2pac from the program and still not get yellowing.
mds - The RR was during my time working with Firewire...At the time it was not available to the public, but I believe that's changed. I have word theres a bloke down here in Victoria distributing it. I have'nt bothered going there so far.
Josh
i hope this thread goes to the resources.
salu2
uzzi