the Pretender 7-10

I always remind myself!! :slight_smile:

A few small bubbles to deal with, but overall good, it was definitely tricky to lam with the two colors and the irregular shape of the blue area and the deck channels all going on at the same time, just gave it my best shot and hope it all works out.

its 4 oz, so one more layer bottom and two more deckside.


Looks great, Huck.
Fin suggestions? Quad plus twingle option would be my inclination, but I tend to err on the side of excess. If you’re not sure about fin placement, I’d ask resinhead for suggestions. This shape is right up his alley.

Im really enjoying this build, thankyou for sharing

Cool.
Kinda stretch^2
Reminds me of last surf where I saw a young girl (probably 95 lbs) on a stretch, f4 or something, and thought, “wish they made those boards a little bigger”
(I know, he probably does…)

I’ve got some cosmetic issues to deal with, and I plan to add my usual wood tail block / leash attachment detail, as well as doing something a little different at the nose too, for safety. I picked up a few more supplies at home over the weekend which should keep me going this week while I wait for some more fiberglass to arrive. I have a bunch of probox plugs from mcding (thanx!) so thats what I’ll probably use. If I don’t get any specific suggestions on fin placement I’ll probably stick to the placement on my other 8 footers, but thinking I’ll add the thruster plug too this time. Or maybe I’ll put two quad plugs in the center twingle style, hah! And hey bwd, Stretch rail channels come in all shapes and sizes :slight_smile:

Cut the foam off for the tail block, and glued up some scraps of wood. Reinforced the stringer with some thin plywood.

The tail os 7 3/4" from across the tips.





I’ve enjoyed your build thread a lot. Me being of a certain age where I can see my time in the water coming to an end physically, not mentally, your solutions to, as I see it, diminished reflex time and paddling power is inspiring. I may have to try and keep going just a little longer with some modifications too. Thanks a heap.

I have a thread in errors and bugs on surfboard design for the aging surfer, its a subject seldom openly discussed, but it becomes a reality once the struggle becomes real. I know my days in the lineup are numbered, so its been my goal to maximize my enjoyment in these swan song years, despite being limited to surfing overcrowded spots in L.A. county. So far my endeavors have been pretty successful, I’m hoping this board follows that pattern!




I always thought your. Leash attachment to be pretty damned creative to say the least. It all looks good to me. I’m down in Calif. and have got a box full of Probox stuff(including a quad set with fins) with me that I brought along by accident. Intended to leave it at the shop but forgot. If anyone is interested PM me. Lowel

hey mcding thnx - I call it the kite tail leash anchor cuz it provides minimum resistance. Like trying to keep a kite up when you hold it by the tail, no reistance, the kite just falls to the ground even in the strongest wind.

Its important to me on these bigger, high volume boards.

I might be interested in those fins - could i see a pic? Would they be good for this board? I’m in l.a. right now, eating lunch at Pinks world famous hot dogs in hollywood :slight_smile: No movie celebs here today but the Chargers are having some kinda promotion and some of the players are here but Im not much of a football fan.

safety first, lol


Ummmmm

wait…

WHAT???

ever since this, I’ve been thinking about pointy noses in crowded surf… (I still have pain in that hip even now)

also this:
by Dominic Feain

BROKEN HEAD surfing legend and inventor George Greenough says there is absolutely no point to pointed-nose surfboards.

“If you look at the basic design of the pointed-nose surfboard, (it) really is a fashion statement,” he said in a letter The Northern Star to be published on Monday.

Mr Greenough is advocating for round-nose surfboards after a week of public debate about surf safety following the shocking head injuries sustained by 10-year-old grommet Pascal Dattler at Byron Bay’s famous surfbreak, The Pass, eight days ago.

Pascal’s skull was smashed open after being hit by a stray surfboard belonging to an inexperienced surfer.

He required emergency neurosurgery in Brisbane and was only millimetres from death, according to doctors.

“Injuries caused by pointed noses can be very dangerous. You have the mass of the surfboard focused into one tiny area,” Mr Greenough said.

“How many parents buy their kids this style of board, looking at fashion, not thinking about safety issues?

“How easy is it for some kid to fall off the back of the board and shoot the pointed nose into their brother’s or sister’s eye?

“It doesn’t make the board surf any better. In fact it adds extra length and increases swing weight and wind resistance. It can also be used as an offensive weapon to intimidate other surfers.

“A round-nose board will surf better because you have reduced the swing weight and wind resistance. It is shorter, turns quicker, and pulls off moves you couldn’t do before. It gives you more confidence to go for new moves because it is safer and less likely to cause injuries.”

Mr Greenough joins a growing list of surfers speaking out against pointed-nose boards.

Legendry shaper Geoff McCoy described the design as the greatest abstract in surfing history.

“We’ll look back in 20 years and just laugh,” he said.

Long-time local surfer, shaper and former instructor Chris Brock said surfers had long questioned the design logic, but it had taken a serious accident for people to pay attention.

“There is absolutely no performance value to sharp-nosed boards,” he said. “You’ve got to hand it to Kelly Slater, who has just cut the noses off his boards and now the kids are catching on.

“There’s better displacement on a round-nose board and once you go back to a sharp nose they just feel stupid.”

Local surfing writer Ben Bennink agreed, describing pointed noses as completely irrelevant and purely aesthetic. “You get a much better lift off the lip with a round nose,” he said.

Kye Fitzgerald, son of Hot Buttered Surfboard’s founder Terry Fitzgerald, said his father had advocated for round noses since Derek Hynd lost an eye from the tip of his own board when riding for Hot Buttered in 1980.

--------------- (edited to add my own observations below)

In my opinion a lot of the danger comes from the last inch or two of stringer in the nose, even with a rounded shape. At impact the full weight of board (or board and rider) is transferred to the impact recipient via the stringer. There is no give.

I think all surfboards would be safer if an inch or so of the nose was cut off, then a piece of foam (no stringer) was glued on and shaped to replace it. Same shape to the nose, but no stringer for the last inch or so. The foam by itself will crush far easier on impact, and its just a matter of gluing another small piece on sanding it and glassing.

I also have a therapy squish ball, palm sized, trying to figure how to shape it, maybe sharp knife or hot wire, wondering if I could glue it on and shape it for the last inch of nose. Not really a big fan of those glue on nose guards, but I do think they’re better than nothing.

I just feel like, as crowds increase, its worth looking into ways of making the nose a little less lethal.

i love the idea, my noses are usually rounded, but the tennis ball kinda thing is next level.

Please paint it pink or something… Yew

No points here.

The old anti pointy nose argument. I guess they’re pretty silly when you think about it although I can think of a few arguments in their favour.

1/ Serious injuries from pointy nose surfboards are actually very rare. When you consider there are millions of pointy nosed surfboards being surfed every day the odds are pretty slim. In 30 years of surfing I have never been injured by the nose of a surfboard. On the other hand I have been cut numerous times by my fins.

2/ I dispute the idea that pointy nose does nothing. A pointy nose is a way of increasing the swing weight of a surfboard without drastically increasing the overall weight of the board. Greater swing weight means greater stability which is something you may need in bigger or hollower conditions. In other words, a shorter board is not always a good thing. Ask Mason Ho.

3/ They look good. When your board looks good you feel good about it and it makes for more enjoyable surfing. This is the same reason why we use clear resin over amber resin. This is why we do fancy sprays on our boards. This is why you’d get hung up if there were small scratches in the blank of a new surfboard. All these things add nothing to the performance of a surfboard and yet are considered important.

4/ They can help stop a nose dive in a steep drop. I’ve taken the opportunity to look at the nose of my board during a late drop a few times over the years. I have seen the nose go underwater for a moment then pull itself back out. In my opinion having an extra inch or two of nose up front can be the difference between success and failure in these situations. With short stubby noses with little rocker it’s basically game over once they go underwater during a drop.

5/ I don’t have a fifth point to make, but if I write some shit down here it might seem like I actually have another point to make for someone who doesn’t bother to read all my points.

Funny bugger.

yeah so this is kind of a compromise - I wanted the pointy nose plan shape, but without the risk of putting an eye out.

The spot I generally surf gets crowded, lots of snaking and shoulder hopping, and lots of kooks. Collisions happen. So I just wanted some kind of added safety to the very tip. It looks kinda funny but if it ever hits anyone it will be beautiful to them.

The ball is a rubber mallet used for activating a tuning fork - I found it on Amazon

Amazon.com.

I picked this because it is mounted on a wood dowel, which makes the attachment to the board a little more secure. It was hard finding a soft squishy ball in a small size. I can find bigger ones, which I’m thinking could be glued on and shaped, but haven’t tried that yet.

If the ball eventually falls off or gets knocked off, my plan is to chop the tip off, glue a small piece of foam on, and glass it lightly with 4 oz. one layer. So if it ever hits anyone, it will compress, and can be easily replaced. I think all boards could benefit from eliminating the last 1" of stringer in the nose, and just have foam in the very tip.

I know its easy to round the nose and say “my board has a rounded nose, so I don’t have to think about additional safety design”. Or stick one of those funky glue-on rubber nose bumpers on it. But I kinda feel like, as a backyarder, I have the opportunity to explore different options in a way that a professional doesn’t, so I like pushing myself to try different solutions in an effort to make a better, or funner, or safer surfboard.



For crowded conditions in generally small to medium sized waves a more rounded nose is a good idea.