Sorry if my two words to Bill’s quotes seem totally wrong to you. It was more directed at the brilliance of Bill’s replies (and knowledge in general) than towards you. I haven’t been active in these forums for a while and I just kinda blurted something out when Bill’s reply struck a nerve (good one).
I’ve been surfing 48 years (I rip:)), have owned hundreds of boards from a bunch of shapers, have been involved in the surf industry, “surfing technology”, and manufacturing “the most advanced surfboards in the world” (marketing hype). I’m friends with, and have worked with many of the world’s best shapers. While there are guys out there like Wil Jobson that can tell you every measurement of every board he makes - not from charts, but just because he can’t help but know those things, most great shapers I know intuatively build great boards. They’re not thinking about rocker dimensions. They’re simply building in the rocker that “feels right” to them.
What makes a surfboard “magic” is totally subjective. What works for you won’t necissarily work for me. I personally like way more tail rocker, less nose rocker, and smaller fins than most other surfers are comfortable with. Also, how a board works is much more than just it’s rocker. It’s a combination of rocker, template, rail shape, bottome contours, volume (and where it is), etc.
My comment on Bill’s qoute was directed towards the thought of commodotizing and standardizing surfboards. With 50% of surfers being beginners, there’s a market for “standard” boards. I’m personally torn about how I feel about this. Surfing is my favorite thing. While I’m not into how crowded my favorite spots have become, I don’t feel that it’s my right to deny others the chance of enjoying the same things I do. The surf “industry” allows surfers to make livings from sharing their passion. At the same time, the business of surfing is what’s killing it’s “soul”. Shapers created the boards that allowed the industry to exist. Now they’re at the bottom of the food chain.
Most surfers (me included) want boards for next to nothing. Mass-produced factory made boards make that possible. There are some significant costs associated with the influx of cheap boards. Individual shapers can’t compete on price and lose the ability to survive in a business they created. Surfboards become standardized like tennis rackets and forks. Surfing becomes a “sport” and not a culture.
The whole idea of a “rocker catalog” feeds into what in my opinion is killing the individualism that’s great in surfing and surfboard design. While I endorse shapers sharing information with each other on what has worked and what hasn’t for them, the catalog implies there is a right and wrong. It also implies that anyone (or any factory) can use this information to make boards as good or better than those of the true masters (Bill among them). Once surfers believe the best boards come from factories, individual shapers lose the ability to survive in an industry they created. That’s not a world I’m looking forward to. Surfing for me is about the love of the ocean and connecting to it on a very personal level. The boards that have worked best for me are ones that were made by shapers who were also great surfers. They weren’t looking at rocker charts while shaping my boards. They were looking at the lines they were making while considering my needs, ability, and style, and making the best possible craft for it’s intended purpose.
While I’m not denying there is “science” associated with surfboard design, I think distilling it into sets of imperical numbers ultimately dilutes the essence of what makes surfing so great. I prefer talking with my shaper about what I want in my next board, waiting for it to get made, bringing beer to smooth the process, and the anticipation of the first surf. Waxing up a new board that was made just for me (or by me) for the first time is way more gratifying than bringing a fork to the beach.