they love to call it surfing

General Discussion
1

hehey its a bird

its a plane

its a kite

it’s inane

they all want it as bad as I did when I was but a tyke.

the devoured stories of the OLDER guys

dora cole noll carson and van dyke

that were all of twenty two

how long they had surfed at the malibu

THere were the inconified posers

on the covers of albums

that I bought a few

then came hendrix and kweskin and the gratefuldead

an dylan an buffy to but name them too

I dedicated my heart and soul to persue the surfing dream

now geek, sailor, remotecontrol potatoes,motorheadalike

are laying on the scheme.

they are crossing from every where

geographic and philosophic alike

and treating this heartfealt activity

like riding on a bike

do I tell em ?

do I get dispondant?

do I escape

and report back

like some co res pondant?

today I floated

whilst raisin from Jersey

shrank as she rode away

the next wave came

I couldnt see

she had ridden out of sight

do they know what they have been given

when I patch their dings

do they feel the spirit in me

do they see the spirits circling over me

like the fishing birds that share

their secret

with those who care

they go surf the crowds and roads and webs and channel VHF

them thats they

do no butt turns

never kook out

forsake:

years of dues

morning blues

dawn dry runs

picking rresidue from under fingernails

resin on every shirt

drips of gloss a month ago

[ on great tonails]

that never hit the dirt

now to wonder while I

sit by the blue campfire alone at 1:05 am

scratch my head

and stare within

then trundle off to bed

…ambrose…

thanks

dont write note thing stupid

or stick a feather in your hat

praise the ones that went before

and just leeeeve it at that

2

The effects of “get it” infusion efforts are felt.

But often not within notice, and perhaps not even within the lifetime, of the infuser. Usually, somewhen or somewhere in between, when a crusted-over sensorium receptor that was knocked slightly ajar at the long ago moment suddenly goes “Oh!”, experiences some vibration different than the humdrum, breaks out of the brain pack, and zips off to a new place to look at things from a new viewpoint.

I have liked to imagine, of my own introspections about the effects of my own work, years after it is done, that the mere inward reflection may spark that receptor, give it an edge, create a targeted ripple.

Remember that rhyme? I shot an an arrow into the air, it fell to earth,I knew not where, for so swiftly it flew,the sight, could not follow it in its flight. I breathed a song into the air, it fell to earth I knew not where, For who has sight so keen and strong, that it can follow the flight of a song. Long, long afterward in an oak, I found the arrow still unbroke, and the song from beginning to end, I found in the heart of a friend.

3
Quote:

…when a crusted-over sensorium receptor that was knocked slightly ajar at the long ago moment suddenly goes “Oh!”, experiences some vibration different than the humdrum, breaks out of the brain pack, and zips off to a new place to look at things from a new viewpoint…

Much like sonic tooth cleaning to quickly remove accumulated debris from consumption…good for them and us…

…shoot boys, feels like I should be on the Garden with you and I could bring the mat and boards or nothing at all; one of the few things which have held me back from making that kind of move decades ago was the thought certain places don’t really need a whole lot more people but then everybody else went anyway. It’s a long way from here to there but at least I seem to speak the language.

4

JLW write:

Why is it that almost all of your posts are not coherent in the least bit? Not to be mean or anything, but I often don’t get a word of anything you say in your posts.

Be honest with me here, do you do drugs before you post on this forum?

-John

I wrote back with help from my wife:

I stay up late and let the mind stream flow .

I make obscure refrences to esoteric times and places to instigate higher understanding

stopped smokinpot in 1982 before the birth of my third child.

take a sip of wine once every three months and spit in the sink

,decline the use of all phareceuticals

I could qualify for a mormon drug test

no coffee no tea no cococola no soda pop mountain dew cafiene content is higher than some kite altitudes

where are you from

do you speak a rural regional tongue?

are you one who has read a broad spectrum of information?

…I .also like to try and rhyme in blank verse…

My posts?

these are art-pieces/poetry perhaps

read em twice and

read em slow and

maybe out loud

you may begin to get a clue

… ambrose…

dont feel bad if you dont get it

my wife says “I dont get it either…he’s stark raving mad …and I was an english teacher … he cant punctuate …his third grade teacher never taught him to write…but he paints a great picture.”

maybe thats the answer I am painting pictures with words

and you have to stand back to get the composition

with the radio off

5

some delude themselves…

they think they get it

but they really dont

YET…

…AMCIII…

6

Simmons, Velzy, Greenough, Cabell, Dobson and Nuuiwha.

NO peyote or sweat lodge.

7

I get it. Unfortunately the vast legions of the clueless, the posers, wannabes and never will be’s that are clogging our beaches will never get it. And we can’t stop them-their numbers are too great. the best we can hope for is that the

ADD generation will be distracted by the Next Big Thing and move on. Then maybe we can have our ocean back.

It's summertime in Florida which means that the tourists and rubes will be pulling their crusty, 20 year old boards out of the barn, hosing off the chicken shit and heading for the beach. Cut off jeans are the board shorts of summer. Time to look for that elusive secret spot.
8
Quote:

And we can’t stop them-their numbers are too great. the best we can hope for is that the

ADD generation will be distracted by the Next Big Thing and move on

Perhaps we should be trying to invent or sell that next big thing and move the herd along a little quicker…

9

I also call it love. The wind in your face the wave at your back. If you can’t see what my main man Ambrose is all about you are not looking at it like it isssssss. Setting out side and just thinking about the waves, not tiring to get the next wave that comes thru, but tiring to watch the next wave that comes thru.

10

JLW wrote:

Interesting, I was just curious.

I’m sorry if I came off as offensive, I was just curious.

I’ll try to read into your posts more. Your views/writing seems like it would be interesting.

I replied:

you were not offensive

faulting someone for depth of experience is shortsighted

the ego trips of the 60’s based on the" I’ve been surfing 8 years longerthan you " mind set was what halted the growth of the real stuff…

I posted this exchange on the forum to stimulate thought and cultivate new likeminded friends like you to share the further growth of this “surfing Thing” we cant grasp or possess but only nurture

…ambrose…

11

Bussy Trent aka Buzzy Trent. No doubt, most will know him, or of him.

for me, he was the guy with the “guns”, wirey,totally confident, the all american with salt.

“That’s the guy that I’d be like,” “He was livin’ it…” “A life beyond me…”

There’s an article of him in a recent Surfer’s Journal. Interview with pictures. It was really moving to get to read it and see a picture of who and where he is today. He talks about his body parts aging, breaking down, Follows it up with, “Your mind is the mosty important thing.” How can we doubt reality is in our mind? Meditation—Surfing. Blending. The whole tribe in silence in revery, in stoke. a wave ridden, shared vicariously with others, all to yourself, Everlasting joy, ever new joy. In always. Only our minds bring us to Samadhi - ever new joy, is only and english approximation.

Even if he didn’t know he said it, he said it anyway. In his own way, he’s a baby boom Che.

che is navajo for grandpa, like DA KINE “Uncle” in the islands.

Get That Feeling!

12

Dick Gozinyah wrote:

They love to call it ease of…

This is all NEW sheet to the just awaking. You have to pull the iPod out o their ears and force them out of the cab of their SUV and you have to show them that it takes ART, CULTURE and PRAYER for others less fortunado than Mr. No Fear, die with the biggest stack/stick, pray for meself chosen Sam’s Clubbers. The old (surfer) icons have been bought and sold faster than Paris Hilton can paint a picture of her lips and the relative juxtaposition to your ding-dong to sell you one of those extruded preformed and pre-visualized crazy-cow burgers. Oh the humanity. Misplaced, misinformed and misspent. Mississippi burning. Charcoal briquets in the red, white and blue - “freedom” wrapper. Used condoms at the school yard. Sexual energy redirected and pent-up until you’re (red, white and) blue in the face and you just gotta buy something. Give me THREE of THOSE, yeah that’s what I want, it’s got the designed in California label and who the f–k cares where it was built. Green product? Don’t bother me, I’m downloading and itemizing, my ticker is calculating and my juices are flowing. Get out of the way old man, don’t slow the process down. I don’t care about no Balzac and the Little Chinese Seamstress, by Dai Sijie, I don’t want no ART or HISTORY. I want the latest mp3 copy - put it on my hard-drive and let’s get busy.

Put that in your mental blender and punch in frappe! Why I oughtta…

Sincerely, Dick Ambidexterus

ps. Do you have one of the old Buzz Trench trading cards, the one that came out right before Quicksliver traded him to Billadong? Now that’s worth something at the Antique Surfer Road Show, yessiree…

13

Hey Ghost, you neo-mammalian, reptile sympathizer, stop picking on the old guard who’s goal is obviously to achieve a spiritual union to the ABSOLUTE. You are enmeshed in the mundane and are recycling memories of the safe and marketed “way.” Let your mindset be put on hold, and maybe with the dead air buzz - echo/reverberation - you will find the central reality of self.

Just a thought… (and read the book, Thomas Edward Blake)

14

…hey GhostlnMachine, when i read it i rap it up…

15

peter gozinya ,pete lasker ,formerly of england ,raystreet’s brother-in- law

in pacifica 1964,was that your real dad?

perhaps if you could feel the Velzy hand shape that my friend dropped off for me to template last week

it would not give your sensitized hands the same rush as the last five seekers of wisdom and truth I’ve handed it to

.and that 's OK

Buzzy Trent?

live a life 1/8 as committed and I will be impressed with your opinion.

never saw the blatent trent sellout.

Trent said it all for those who wished to listen

about surviving a wipeout at sunset and the ensuing swim

this may not concern you,if not turn up your prerecorded mp3

“STICK WITH THE WHITEWATER AND IT WILL TAKE YOU IN LIKE A SHOT”

hope you are not the guy swimming against the rip waiting for the jet ski

…ambrose…

no ghost

no psuedonym to hide behind

and only best wishes for your growth

Buzzy Trent aint dead yet

go Mr. Trent

Clark Kent was a fake

BUZZY TRENT IS THE REAL THING

may you live to sign another 10,000 dollar balsa gun and spend the money

or are they 20,000,

cheap for the wannabe surfing lawyers

and brewer can get another shape too!

16

Mr. dickgoes inya.

In case I enrage you further Here’s a cavaet: Only been surfing less than ten years. Only had four boards, and a mat. Still got two of em. Just broke a five day fasting clense and had come out of a night meditation. A moment of I am That. It’s way beyond a mental orgasm- beyond the physical. Maybe that approaches what aloha is really all about . ALOHA! Oh! another thing, I lived on the navajo Reservation for three years That is the last of the wild 48. Elders are respected, cause the’ve been through so much, they know experience and share their wisdom. Where we gettin’ ours cuz? mass media? I haven’t had TV for decades. So, I’ve no idea what your talking about. But the energy of is raunchy to me. Play on, Play on…

Everything is all right. This is all for fun. You too are That, living that part of the dream. We stay within the forum rules. And for me I’ll talk about where I’m coming from. Your “them” and “they” is your present state of consciousness. That’s cool.

Back to Bussy- SJ compares his physique to Laird Hamilton, How of his DVD’s do you have? Mr. Trent who’s never heard of him but gets the gist says, “He’s a freak,” “There’ll be another” Bigger stronger crazier. You could fit the bill. When I was looking @ those old mags about thirty plus years ago I was a SO Cal kid, dude. Had no interest in surfing at all, other than body surfing sharing a fin with a friend and having fun. But his physique impressed me, He, “had it all.” I was totally committed to physical everything at the time, he was a model, among many.

The wisdom from Mr. Trent, for me, was someday we’re gonna loose all that physical. But we’ll still have our minds for a time, Velzy? well… Until then, where will your mind be? In the end, If you never see me in the line up… It’s 'cause you’re not there.

I’ve heard one bigger than life Buzzy Trent story; it’s okay if there’s no more…

One of my yogi’s has this to say: “If you can’t imitate him; don’t copy him.” Yogi Berra

17

In the middle of an early morning bowel clense my swami appeared to me:

“What I experienced was “Foolrealization” And that I am a fool. And there’s nothing I can do about it. Except laugh and learn.”

It was not my intent to flame anybody. My sincerest apologies if I did. The story is told.

18
Quote:
Dick Gozinyah wrote:

They love to call it ease of…

This is all NEW sheet to the just awaking. You have to pull the iPod out o their ears and force them out of the cab of their SUV and you have to show them that it takes ART, CULTURE and PRAYER for others less fortunado than Mr. No Fear, die with the biggest stack/stick, pray for meself chosen Sam’s Clubbers. The old (surfer) icons have been bought and sold faster than Paris Hilton can paint a picture of her lips and the relative juxtaposition to your ding-dong to sell you one of those extruded preformed and pre-visualized crazy-cow burgers. Oh the humanity. Misplaced, misinformed and misspent. Mississippi burning. Charcoal briquets in the red, white and blue - “freedom” wrapper. Used condoms at the school yard. Sexual energy redirected and pent-up until you’re (red, white and) blue in the face and you just gotta buy something. Give me THREE of THOSE, yeah that’s what I want, it’s got the designed in California label and who the f–k cares where it was built. Green product? Don’t bother me, I’m downloading and itemizing, my ticker is calculating and my juices are flowing. Get out of the way old man, don’t slow the process down. I don’t care about no Balzac and the Little Chinese Seamstress, by Dai Sijie, I don’t want no ART or HISTORY. I want the latest mp3 copy - put it on my hard-drive and let’s get busy.

Put that in your mental blender and punch in frappe! Why I oughtta…

Sincerely, Dick Ambidexterus

ps. Do you have one of the old Buzz Trench trading cards, the one that came out right before Quicksliver traded him to Billadong? Now that’s worth something at the Antique Surfer Road Show, yessiree…

Ghosts that haunt me, setting the record and other historical ramblings…

It’s a bird

It’s a plane

It’s adolescent man!

Flying on airrogance and bravado.

In 1992, I met John Trudell. I used his poetry extensively in my poetry units. He was kind enough to have his agent send me his lyric sheets. along with a tape that wasn’t circulated much. Children reading his work. I’m happy for his commercial success. That you’d know is hopeful. you gotta have something going on beside macho.

That was the same year that your school teachers were handing you curriculum about the 500th year “Discovery” of America.

The People, had their own idea about what that ment. Field studies, Canyon De Chelly, with a group of young men and women, only biilagana =haole. There, shared with me, the oral history, an elder, a che: Oral stories rule! There’s a heart and soul transmission, speaker gets choked up, listener feels it too.

Kit Carson’s army rode in and tried to round up the people. Some escaped into cliffs. Other were rounded up and captured. Those in the cliffs had to watch in horror. His grand father watched his mothers breasts carved out and thrown against the canyon walls. Soldiers decided to make a game out it. Who could make a higher stain -( I’m trying to spare you the details) when they used up all the genitalia they switched to internal organs. When the brass had seen what their soldiers had done, ordered the peach orchard split and piled, and piled, piled all the peach trees up against the wall and stacked the butchered bodies on top of that and burned them. mental toughness don’t mean shit compared an open heart. A warrior heart. Ain’t the same as a butchers. There opposites as far as I can see…

I scrapped fingers to bone to places where mothers gave birth during the Long Walk, and had to leave their new borns.

Three years, variations on stories just like these. Yet, humanness, humor, connection, No selfish ego trips that divide, that gloat, that judge. We still can learn from them what it really means…

Mercifully, I got to come here, the heart of mother ocean, the land of aloha, surf has soothed my soul. Especially, hanging on to the mat! Ohh! it’s so fun!

I’ve earned the right to use the term “All American” however I damn well please!

I like that Nat Young said," We were originally pacifists," What’s the approach from that level?

Now, father eagles talons are into another sovereign people, Abu gharaib- that’s the “nice stuff” our boys are into.

His mannish boys need oil for their toys, oil for their toys, more oil for their toys.

Buzzy Trent, he could speak for himself if he wanted too. Couldn’t he? I suspect, In addition to his committment, He’ll also be remembered for coining the term “Freak,” for those that choose the unnatural mechanized way of towing in on a jet ski. And the “Garrhhh” that it takes.

Another thing we have in common is our significance to surfing, zilch, at this point.

I see a rays of hope, Makers of surfcraft to have fun. I say, get two mats from Dale Solomonson, take your son matting, give him the attention young boys crave from their fathers, and there’ll be peace, smiles and fun.

I’m trying to be as low impact as I can. You were sold a bill of goods. I fear you’re going to suffer from all that jarring around.

When the din of the motor finally rattles out of your head.

The war you’re raging will finally be dead, but how many more will be behind you in your stead?

I’ve made my peace.

19

Oral history is what Paris Hilton tapped into for the purpose of turning high society tricks for the marketing trade, you don’t even have to disguise the message behind some wholesome front men/family to get the sales pitch out there, just go down on/to the sacred river and get some college kids to let off some steam, do-it, while the digital cams roll on/om. And it’s only for those that GAVE UP THE FIGHT. Flinging genitals and innards are designed for the OBSERVERS, those that slow down and give up, the already defeated, we’ll get the story out for ya, cause Captain Hook, oops lost a hand while searching for that buried treasure, said, “Dead men tell no tales.” The you and the me, the that and the they, the buzz on the line… What of the real warrior race? What did we learn from them? Hey old timer the war is over, come on out of that cave. So solly… Almost like someone espousing a defeated cultures, last gasp, oral history from an island paradise? If this planet was an empty rock where did we come from? Look back in history, microbes ruled the planet for billions of years, creating an oxygen rich atmosphere - and threw together some basic systems to “feel out” the qualities of the planet. Have you taken your core temperature lately, and are we in a period of “ice age” or nice age? Are we man made, or man makers? Chicken afore the egg, over easy with some wheat toast and fruit preserves. Whoops, best you can come up with is an Adam and Eve scenario, which would explain the inbred, highly self centric, thought process that are exhibited. And the God-Mirror-Man, who created who in whose image spiritualism? Keep your ass clean, cause you can change the world with Mr. Clean, one eyed, breath-o-fresh air. Even though in countless studies of hotel rooms around the world, they’ve found that one thing humans like to do is leave behind the stains of feces and semen, kind of the GI Joe, I been here and conquered mentality, or a nod to our microbe forefathers? A doctor looks at the symptoms to cure the organism, so who are you gonna cure with what chu say and the picture you paint and the isolationist mat riding, lay down stance? Mind over matter or matter over mind? The heart of mother ocean is where you find it, whether you are standing, lying down or running away. Peace or piece, brother? An expanding mind is something that you shouldn’t waste, and there is a HUGE lesson in the mp3. Now you ask that we sacrifice Dale’s mat? Haven’t we given enough of Bert? If you have one of those rubber bands on your wrist that says you support tsunami relief or hunger or aids relief, take it off your arm and turn it inside out. What does it say in raised letters that pushes and brands into your skin? Your move…

20

hump hump

Harumph

hump hump

Harumph

If you buy -in

it exists

never stayed in a hilton

dont wear no wrist bands

make my boards by hand

walk to the beach

wish the best to all

annonomus

and identified

when the tide has gone all the way out it will come back in

the dream that we are living is unique in time

that we can surf is amazingly

bitchin.

may we all be at peace with the great spirit

all ALL

living or dead and yet unborn

our Identities are inscribed beyond

by our works and

the people we help to become greater

there are no obstacles on the true path

…ambrose…

what are the waves like?