A pic from a trip last summer
NICE!!! I mind surfed it and that’s a great wave!!! I like the sand bottom and the warm water… Haha!
One of surfings best
images by Jamie Ballenger
This picture gets me anxious…
EPac
you know he makes some awesome boards under the SSC (Soul Surfing Crew) label.
A guy I surf with on weekends rides a couple of them. He met they guy from work didn’t even know who he was other than he made boards for SSC…
Imagine that… not knowing who Jock was…
Butch, BK, Jock…
They were some of my heroes in the day…
They just surfed
Didn’t care what they looked like
or if they got creamed on every wave…
and boy did they take it on the head alot…
is Jock a switchfoot also , guys ?
…or was that Angie Reno , perhaps ?
I remember footage in one movie [“5 summer stories”? "going surfing "?] of whoever it was going forehand at honolua , then forehand at pipe …
…impressive stuff , for sure !!
ben
jocko could always switch foot as well as butch imagine riding pipe or choops switch…
but my recollection was that angie reno was one of the best.
surfing like that is a lost art
yeah , a comment I read once on Angie was that he would paddle out at big waimea , take off backhand and…
…jump off at the bottom …
"just to feel the wipeout "
???
true , or legend , I wonder ?
… if that was true , that’s incredible stuff to do to your body , and survive ?
ben
… not ALL tubes are blue, eh ?
Greg ,
here’s a shot of someone about to do what you asked [“catch a wave for me”]…
Nice Chip!!!
Quote:
yeah , a comment I read once on Angie was that he would paddle out at big waimea , take off backhand and....…jump off at the bottom …
"just to feel the wipeout "
???
true , or legend , I wonder ?
… if that was true , that’s incredible stuff to do to your body , and survive ?
ben
=========================================================
I believe you are refering to Jose’ Angel.
Yep - it was Jose Angel. I’ve read that he would make the drop & do a backflip off the tail of his board to see what it felt like.
There’s a great story somewhere of Jock surfing the Bay in the dark, on a 7’11". When the sun went down, everyone else paddled in on their 9’s and he could finally get some waves. I’ll try & find the reference.
oops sorry …Jose …yes !
It must be the “Ang” in both their names, and the whole switchfoot charger thing .
Thanks for that clarification, Epac …credit where it is due for sure ! [didn’t Jose end up with “the bends” ? And then one day while diving , he died ? …I think I need to pull out the old magazines again…refresh my memory]
cheers !
ben
are beautiful creations …
…how’s the different colours , from day to day , and season to season eh ?
…BEAUTIFUL , I tells ya !!
cheers !
ben
Yeah! I love that shot!
thanks mate .
here’s some more from the same arvo [“afternoon”]…
sunshine through the lip …
…nothing like a bit of backlighting to get some nice texture happening eh ?
ben
Empty fun…
the green Indian Ocean …
