Just a couple of questions- how come Hawaiians have such big feet? I surfed solid overhead waves on Maui once and the surf report called it 2 feet and trying.
I agree 100% with the way carve measures waves.
I’ve read (and i’m skeptical as to the acuracy of this) that origanally the “surf reporters called waves smaller so less people would paddle out, but people were getting angry that they were getting hurt in “2’” surf”
then again i read this in tracks mag so its probably incorrect.
Josh
By the way carve i saw a 12’ veener surftech like yours the other day in Australia. looked like a beatiful board.
This is deep off the point of Waimea from yesterday… This wave is around 18’ or well above 30’ face. Huge and sooooo gnarly/perfect… Almost certain death if you chanced it…
Theres some nice waves in this thread… you guys should appreciate them… this is what I get to look forward to… http://gulfster.com/IndexFiles/122605ds.html . Cant wait to go back to maui for the summer… even though its only south swells usually anything better then here
About a 12’ face. Its a hairy place to surf alone because it is a very lively ocean there. Plenty sea life of all kinds if you know what I mean… I saw a few turtles on the way out so I felt better. The other day I heard a shark was tossing a big turtle around at Puena Pt. Cleared the lineup… Haha!!
Tamarindo, Costa Rica last week. Nothing big, but my first time in strong off shore winds. Had to dodge more than a few surf school-ers (they wore red shirts - I think the the one in the picture got slammed by that wave…). Couldn’t make the drop on many - got blown off just as I thought I had it.
