Tribute to Waves.....

a bouy

Ahhhhhhhh, another session of PERFECTION!!! This spot is a once to 3 times a year thing and I lucked out and scored!!! I was out alone for an hour then a few guys slowly trickled out… AWHOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

I snapped this paddling back out… It was really good!!!

I should of took more pictures but I was to busy surfing!

Just to much fun!!!

Man Hawaii looks good. Can you tell the difference between Hawaii and here? Doh!

This morning 12-18-05, Corpus Christi, Texas.

…only 2 people out.

  • Photo by G. Scott

That’s cool!!! Nice barrel… That guy wouldve got a nice pit if he went…

Haha, yeah. It’s a gurl.

Howzit CarveNalu, Puena Pt. was one of my favorite spots in the early 70's on big North swells and I don't think I ever surfed it with more than 3 people,actually most times I was the only one out. Don't you just love that inside section over the coral head. I used to park my van on the old runway at night and watch the military helicopters practice picking up and dropping off guys. Would be about 5 of them strung out between Puena and Kaena pt. taking turns. Aloha,Kokua

Just my two cents worth. Some of you would’ve seen these bfore but for the ones who havnt. Heres some stoke for ya.

Cheers



Awesome… Makes you want to surf…

Yea i love that picture. Was trying to make it seen like the guy is just in awe. Most of you guys will know what i mean. When you just kinda marvell at the waves.

Cheers

Quote:

Howzit CarveNalu, Puena Pt. was one of my favorite spots in the early 70’s on big North swells and I don’t think I ever surfed it with more than 3 people,actually most times I was the only one out. Don’t you just love that inside section over the coral head. I used to park my van on the old runway at night and watch the military helicopters practice picking up and dropping off guys. Would be about 5 of them strung out between Puena and Kaena pt. taking turns. Aloha,Kokua

Oh yeah… Youre right, Puena Pt can get sooo unreal! Those days of surfing alone are pretty much gone. We got it alone all the way up to the early 90’s… We used to help the care taker out there and he would let us stay at his house which is no longer there… That day in the picture you can see it just firing from the outside at a solid 8’+. A world class wave when on but there are horrible consequenses if you screw up… That’s why you won’t see many tow-in guys try to sneak in there on the giant days… I’ve seen it holding perfect Hawaiian size 20’ walls like Jeffery’s Bay spinning slow motion flawless from a mile outside… Huge plumes of spit every 200 yards or so… Just so amazingly perfect and giant!!!

Same spot as yesterday but waaaaaay heavy!!! GNARLY, SUCKING, THICK, BARRELS!!! It was pretty crazy!!! HAHAHAHA!!! 6 of us out and it was mean to say the least… Had a tough time trying to position with all the big sets washing through and so much water moving around… Everybody was getting blasted… Hold downs were brutal… Buwahahahahahahaha!!!

This picture pretty much says it all!!! AWHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

A nice double up trench…

So many of these went rolling by… A Tribute to Waves!!!

Thanks Nalu.

Without the wave, we would be nothing.

spare a thought for carve nalu …

sitting on a 12’ board , paddle in one hand , camera in the other , taking photos for us couch / computer surfers , as he prepares to get another 8’ thickness of foam to the head . While hanging on for dear life to the camera , and trying not to kill other surfers with the paddle or board .

Did I say “dangerous” ??

…I hope you realise what is involved in getting shots like these, people !!

cheers !

ben

I agree, getting pounded taking pics isn’t much fun! Great effort!!

Well, I don’t know about the rest of you, but I am getting insanely jealous of all these super pics of waves in Hawaii… feel like selling everything, packing my bags…and board and heading that way!! The sunshine is enough, cold, grey and bleeding cold here in UK at the minute!!

So here is something a bit different…my 2 pence worth… this is the Severn bore in September this year, just below Maisemore bridge at Gloucester, 21 of us on “Sabrina”, (this a tame version I hasten to add, she get’s real big sometimes, imagine this overhead plus, roaring along at 25mph, logs, barrels, fridges, KAYAKS!), some of the locals in US Presidents masks, South Africans, a few Aussies and Kiwis, a few Pro’s sneaking in too, all of us sharing in the magic of mother nature together!!

I don’t know who took this photo, but I got sent this buy the editor of Wavelength Magazine as I am in it, so hope nobody minds. If you like these, go look at www.boreriders.com for more!. There is also a fantastic video of surfers and kayakers getting trashed in 1998 by “Sabrina” at www.severn-bore.co.uk

Man, Isn’t surfing GREAT!!! STOKED!!!

That’s cool kudu! Other than Jeffery’s Bay that’s another thing I’d like to try… A long tidal bore…

Anyway, here’s another tribute to the almighty waves…

Who says there aren’t any waves in Texas?

Rusty

San Antonio

More eye candy from today…

Secret spot going off! Nobody around at all… I got a healing wound and it was very hard to watch it this good. Oh well, just a few more days and I’ll get back in the water…

Empty Perfection at a Hawaiian size 6’…

Just a couple of questions- how come Hawaiians have such big feet? I surfed solid overhead waves on Maui once and the surf report called it 2 feet and trying.

Second- what kind of camera set up are you using, paddling around and surfing in in those Hawaiian kine waves?

Since I was a kid a 6’ wave had a 12’ face. I guess the pioneer big wave guys down played the size a lot to be more macho… I just cut everything in half of the face size. That’s in the ballpark of how us locals measure it. Hey, I didn’t start it!

I use a Pentax Optio WP 5.0 megapixel. Those were shot from land about 300 yards away… I crop it in my computer to bring it closer…