VanHelsing, pictures of your wetout table from 15 years ago or it didn’t happen, you wouldn’t be talking out your arse would you?
Dwight, good thread, you’ve found a method that works well for your build technique. Board looks good, thanks for posting!!
Surfboards skins break because of dings, pressure and buckling, all are compressive stress. Stiffness is the key to increase compressive strengh, stiffness is given by resin an, with our thin skin by foam. Reduce drastically amount of resin is a bad way if nothing is made to increase stiffness. Sailboard maker use wet table+vaccum because they use light fiber that float over resin and sandwich foam drink to much resin when fiber is laminate on. Stiffness is given by sandwich skin configuration. But many production wave sailboard break because of dry lam, that’s way now some custom wind shaper use again old lam tech.
Stronger surfboards are those with tough skins, look at what a BIC suffer during a surf school season !
Sorry for my frenglish.
haaa’’ i think that question has been asked before
cheers huie
If you're layinng up one board at a time I guess your are pretty far ahead of the times if you are vacum bagging. If you are laying up four or five blanks at a time, vacum bagging is just a pain in the ass and coast more than its worth.
Yeah dude…
Still waiting for your apology…
“VanHelsing, pictures of your wetout table from 15 years ago
or it didn’t happen, you wouldn’t be talking out your arse would you?”
Yes I would Mr. Marsh… Welcome to my anus… " hi marsh…"
I make it up as I go… I have no idea how to glass a board…
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Easy on there huey and marsh, I dont think VH actually siad HE was using a wet out table that long ago.just that it wasn’t a new technique.
Thanks for having my back…Ultimats…
But yes we did the wet out table crap in the mid 80’s when ultra light carbon/ S glass windsurf boards were the craze…
EPS windsurf board also needed to be sealed before the outer core-cell skins were vacuum bagged to the core…
Dwight’s table set up works fine… But there’s a better way.
It’s geared towards the upper and lower plastic layer in this mix…
I don’t really have your back VH, it’s just when you get two half wits together like Huie and Marsh they think that by attacking someone theyre actually defending their ego-testicle position. Opposition is a sign of respect for the other party not a call to war and ‘slings and arrows’ only show how feebly their defences have been constructed.
It’s a common hallmark of the egocentric Y generation mindset.
I’m doing it like a cheater coat and hot coat. I’m just waiting a little longer before doing the cheater coat. It was after figuring out what hot coat tricks worked best for me, that the light bulb went off in my head and for the first time, and I understood why people did cheater coats. Sometimes I’m a little slow… haha
I’m not aware of any reason the timing of the cheater coat maters. Enlighten me if it maters. Thanks!
I haven’t given up on bagging completely. I’m still trying to learn to be better at it. For now, I only bag the SUPs I build windsurf capability into.
It’s painful to pull it from the bag, and see all those tiny resin darts from bag wrinkles.
I’ve seen and touched that board at the Neilson shop in Cocoa Beach. Beautiful boards. I built some cork test samples and smashed them. I was testing to decide what would be light, yet tough enough for my windsurfing SUP. I thought lots of carbon fiber came out best in my smash testing, so I didn’t do the cork. Although cork may have beat my EVA deck pad material for weight.
I’d love to surf a cork deck someday.
You can also use like a 2oz. Tight weave as your last layer and skip the Cheater coat
I’ve got an interesting story about this. All my SUP building experience was with 1lb foam and carbon fiber vaccum bagged race boards, when I decided to give “surfing” SUPs a try.
So I asked a couple of shapers what they used for lam with 1.5 lb foam. I was told 2 layers of 4oz S on the deck held up fine with minor deck impressions. 3 layers of 4oz S would be solid.
So I built one board with 3 layers of 4oz S on the deck. I got Kelly Slater like heel dents
I built another one with 3 layers 4oz S, plus a double deck patch of 6oz E. Zero heel dents after one year. This is the board the local factory made its first copy of. The factory went with just 2 layers of 4oz S, no deck patches. Because they feared their weight would be too high if they copied my lam. Well, they still ended up 1.5 lbs heavier than mine and this board is a total mess after one year, with massive heel dents and total deck collapses. It now has 2 lbs of water weight in it. Yellow water stains everywhere.
I’ll take more layers of cloth and a bomb proof board, over less layers and thick resin.
Now I realize you’re vacuum bagging and not having this issue. I just wanted to point out the extreme opposite. I wouldn’t want someone to read this and start pouring piles of resin on their boards! Right now, my way is really poplular locally and friends have begged me to build them one of my bomb proof boards. I refuse though. I already have a day job.
FYI, The local factory has found 2 layer 4oz deck with a carbon deck patch to be their best combination of weight vs durablity.
Back when I used clear plastic on the table, I got an occasional dry spot. Since switching to black plastic, never had a dry spot again.
Black plastic is so good at showing the wetout, you’d have to be blind as a bat to let a spot slip by.
Someone should tell the Nelson factory in Maui to use black plastic!
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Behind or ahead of the times is relative and specific to the user’s preference. Nonetheless, I am fairly certain Mr. VH is competent with technology he discusses.
However, this thread is about a technique that works well for Mr. Dwight’s purposes. It is a worthy contribution.
Mr. Dwight, no mock intended, does the black plastic help identify dry patches with carbon fiber wet out as well?
I can’t see any difference using clear or black on carbon fiber. I wondered the same, when I made the switch to black plastic.
I do it one time and it was on black plastic because that’s all what i have LOL. I found that glue cloth on taky epoxy (gretly flexible is better) more efficient: seal and reinforced foam, increase bond and pre lam fiber flat in one go with minimal amount of resin, then lam over.
Lot of fiber is tough but heavy, not really needed, fiber+bulker is far efficient for me.
Sorry for my frenglish.