I’ve been a member on this site for more than 10 years, but this is my first post/question. I’ve found this site to be such a wealth of knowledge and I want to thank every person who has ever helped answered questions on this forum.
I’m installing a tuttle box on a SUP for a Go Foil hydrofoil. (not mine, can’t afford such a thing) There is a good video of an install on youtube of the basic steps to install the box.
In the video, the person cuts the hole all the way through the deck, installs the box sticking through the deck, grinds the box down, then laminates back over it.
My question: Is it necessary to cut through the top lamination? I’ve cut the hole through the bottom of the board and cleared away all the foam to the bottom of the deck lam. see pic.
If I leave the deck as is and cut the box to fit correctly into the hole so that it rests on the deck lamination (and epoxied in) will it be strong enough? obviously I’ll need to laminate and finish off the bottom as well. It seems like it would save a step and make for a cleaner install.
From what I know of the Tutle box, which is limited to seeing someone mount them. I think you want to do minimal grinding on the bottom and do most of the thickness adjustment on the top. They are a wedge shape and only go in so far, if you grind a lot off the bottom you won’t get the desired fit and strength. do you have the “fin” to check the depth? Are you using a dummy to get the right angles?
I don’t plan on grinding anything off the bottom of the box, I’ll cut the deck side of the box down so that it sits on the current deck lam and the bottom of the box will sit near flush to the bottom of the board. Fit of the fin shouldn’t be an issue. mostly concerned about losing strength by not passing the box through the board then grinding down and glassing.
Yes I do have the foil.
They may recommend a thru the deck installation to insure that the deck side of the box is securely bonded/attached to the deck. That’s the only thing I can think of.
The strength of Tutle boxes is in the bond to the deck as well as the bottom, so you probably still need to reinforce the deck a little anyway. Good Luck!
Do you think putting a few layers of cloth in the bottom of the hole would be enough to reinforce the deck area, or do i need to add layers of cloth to the actual deck of the board so that reinforcement can extend past the immediate area of the box?
It’s well known I’m not into SUP. not at all !!!
After you plug the hole you are going to need fiberglass top and bottom. Not your standard FCS fin plug…Ha Ha
Anchoring to the deck is key… kind of like the deck connection of the old FCS plugs when they were installed correctly. It wouldn’t hurt to add a layer or two of glass to the deckside to help spread the load and avoid a sheerline where your foot might cause a cave-in on either side.
I’m doing exactly the same, and was trying to figure out the same. I’m going to route in from bottom exactly as you have done. I think then I will lay 2 layers of glass around box as well as using carbon fibre micro balloons to ensure bonding to underside of deck. I’m thinking of then reinforcing the top deck with 5 layers of glass reinforcement to strengthen holes for screws as they come through deck. Then doing 3-4 layers of glass on bottom of board to reinforce and sand flush. I’m going to vac bag this layer to ensure good finish. Going to do a windsurf and SUP, with this method. See how it goes. Any views welcome, will let everyone know how it goes, and any use problems.
I’ve finished the install of the tuttle box and used a very similar method like you are talking about. I left original deck lam in place as seen in previous photo. I measured and cut the tuttle box to fit into the hole so it does not protrude from the bottom of the board. I then lined the entire hole with several layers of fiberglass and wetted it out and let it set up a bit, then used a slurry of micro balloons and epoxy to set the box in place. after that, it was pretty straight forward glassing with several layers of cloth. I did not add anything to the deck from the top, but when I glassed the inside of the hole, there was plenty of glass added to the deck.
You guys are talking deep tuttle box installs here.
They are quite expensive as they are targeted at formula racing boards.
They are extremely light and build with carbon and HD foam and cost you around $90 indeed.
Deep tulle installs are usually done with extra carbon around the box (between HD foam and EPS), not sure if it is really needed but that’s how it’s usually done.
Standard tuttle boxes are much cheaper but heavier.
Except for US boxes and side fin boxes, all sailboard boxes need you to cut your hole through the deck.
Like you did, you can try to save the top lam, but it will take you more time (higher installation cost).
