I don’t know how to imbed videos.
Maybe someone could help out?
<iframe src=“http://player.vimeo.com/video/28120717?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0” width=“400” height=“225” frameborder=“0” webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe><p>Christian Beamish from <a href=“http://vimeo.com/ironfist”>IronFistMedia</a> on <a href=“http://vimeo.com”>Vimeo</a>.</p>
Hi Chrisp, very interesting video, I agree with the theory about belly and board not slapping. Would love to hear what Bill Thrailkill has to say about this design as I know he likes wide square tails and going fast on large waves.
Right on Tony. Yah, I’m interested to hear too…
What he said about belly made perfect sense…
Speaking of wide tails on big guns, have you seen this?:
Well, I almost don't know where to start. The fellow can certainly ride larger waves, but has a fundamental lack of understanding of surfboard design principles. Using a 1957 outline, with a 15 inch nose???? Please! For me to properly address this issue would require a length of writing that I'm not willing to undertake at this time. A quick observation: Fins are too far apart. Promotes tracking. Concave in tail is not a benefit. Observe the apparent inability to execute a bottom turn, when it would clearly be appropriate. I'm not dissing the guy, just pointing out some shortcomings in the board's design.
Probably a combination of a good skilled surfer and a beautiful glassy day???
Well, the thread I linked to at Surfermag.com has dissappeared but, if you click the link in my second post, you should be able to see the video…
Like Bill said, no real big wave benefits to his design can be seen in his shape or that video. Just a guy hanging in the lip, getting lucky on the drop and then going strait. Can’t think of any big wave guns with a concave tail. The Bob Simmons shape no doubt has it’s followers and the twin keel concave bottom and bellied nose entry can be used in a wide range of board sizes but you won’t catch me or two many others wanting to try one out in realy big surf. I’ll stick with a v-bottom single fin or even a quad but they will all have pin tails and pointed noses!
Nice wave,
nature is like that -
Some may say you got lucky, many might agree. Most I know have ridden both beautiful and ugly.
That wave was his.
Nature is like that.
Hey ChrisP,
That's an impressive video and I've never surfed a wave even remotely that size but the board did seem to go really straight. Could be my ignorance though.
I have a related question: How do keel single fins work? How about in bigger waves?
Take care, C
This video also demonstrates why a lot of big wave guns are 8" single fins. When your getting hung up in the lip… and you start to get air under your board as you drop… the only thing that will keep the board from getting off your line and drifting to the left or right is the fin dragging in the water . As you start to reduce the hight of your fins you are reducing the chances of your board staying on track in that ever so common big wave situation of getting air as you drop. And the same goes for when your flying over chop and bump etc. You don’t need your board sliding out or skipping out due to those short fins not being deep enough in the water.
Not to mention the negative aspects of that big ass wide nose catching air and slowing you down as you start your drop! Because of that nose catching wind and the speed he lost he HAD to go strait because he was forced into a late drop and lost his chance to turn. If he had tried to crank a turn my guess is he would have slid out and got drilled!
Looks to me that by the time he got to the bottom…there was no shoulder to turn onto…so if he had turned some on the way down…he would have avoided or missed the best part of the wave!!
roger
Looked that way to me… There was no reason to turn on that wave.
Interesting comments from everybody here.
Ya that wave mushed out so no point in turning… on that wave. But if the wave had had some wall (like lots of Mavs waves do) and he had needed to turn to make it he would have got smoked. And I still don’t think that was the line he wanted but more the line he had to take and he just got lucky.
It is interesting to study the vid…looks like the wide tail saved him from 27 seconds to 38 seconds where the tail was the only thing in the water…and it does look like he kinda turned a bit at the top and then straightened out once more of the hull engaged the wave…
I am not a big wave rider so there is more that I dont know than that which I do about this pursuit…but I do think the board in interesting and I would like to give it a go on much smaller waves…
roger
thrailkill,
what were the nose widths on '57 outlines?
thanks
In general the early guns,in the 1957 to 1961 period, tended to have fairly full noses. Not real pointy, in the 14 to 15 inch range. By 1963 Del Cannon was making guns with 12 inch wide pointy noses. Quite extreme by the then standards. Following his lead, I settled on 13 inches on my boards, at that time. I still like the flow of the lines at that dimension, and that is the nose width on the most recent gun that I built. The Hawaiian builders were making some very advanced outlines in the late 1930's and early 1940's, on some of the hot curl boards.
Wide concave tail in big surf with wide spread keel fins. Not a good place to start no matter what the logic.
Sorry. Just being honest.
? The outline and fins set up allows the positioning of his body near middle of board…this would help mitigate wind up the face effecting the width of nose and the forward wide point…perhaps?
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''......perhaps? ''
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Not really.