Yew glad to see you having a fantastic time dude.
Gonna turn 66 this winter…
I hope, I have another 10 years to shape and fish.
Sorry ‘bout showin’ off.
It always seemed for me, that I wound up at a great spot, the waves showed up and I had the right board in my quiver!
I always paddled out.
I have no should’as and I am damn glad I did it when I could.
Study the surfboard, experiment and FISH!!!
Wish I had something bigger than 8-0 here’s on this day! A Little one at West peak
Just found this thread.
Keep doing what you do as long as you enjoy doing it. In late 1968 or early 1969, I was in the 5th grade. I decided then that surfing was all I wanted to do. No more little league baseball, or other organized sports, just riding waves. It didn’t matter how I rode them as long as I was riding a wave. During the first 5 or 10 years I bodysurfed, rode wooden paipo (belly) boards, styrofoam boards, boats, canoes and regular surfboards. Made a couple in 1978 through 1980 and realized it would take a while to get good, so I just bought my boards. I was lucky enough to have jobs that allowed me lots of surfing time, and a wife that didn’t get too upset that I needed to surf just about everyday.
Fast forward to 2004 and my brother asks me if I want to make a board, hell yes! I was getting depressed with the fact that I wasn’t going get better with my current age and work situation (less surfing time), but making boards gave me a new outlook. I was now surfing on boards I made myself. The first 10 or so were OK from a design perspective. I was taking all the best things about the boards I had been riding and using them as guides. Then I had a too long period of experimentation to learn all about surfboards. Rockers, thickness, rails, bottoms, outlines, etc. Learned a lot about why certain things aren’t being done these days, and what I like in a board.
So now I’ll be 59 in a few months. I’m retired and spend as much time in the water as I can, but it’s taking a toll on me. I’ve had my share of health issues, and a few years back, I calculated I could kick the bucket around 62. So I’m trying to enjoy my time in the water, my time with the wife and kids, and do what makes me happy. I’ll spend about 2.5 to 3 hours surfing then I’m toast. Eyes are sore, body is sore and I need to spend a couple hours sleeping to recharge. My wife asked me to cut some tree branches the other day, and I ended up taking out a small banyan tree. I could hardly walk for a few days after that.
I hope you can make boards another 10 years, surf, fish a lot and enjoy every minute.
Eh Bradda,
Just took a deep breath
and dove down deep!
Oh, so nice story, we are indeed kin.
Family is abundant and a great joy.
Ohana is the most important thing.
We all have to look to our blessings
without which we would never be able to really enjoy
the last of our “active” years.
Aloha and tight lines!
Eh, I always fish bare foot…
(tried to post this behind the update on the first post on Page 1 but I got sent to the back of the line…)
Well, at least it is a beach house…
I am going to miss what comes out of your shop.
All the best to you and yours Matty!
Great thread, somehow I missed these last posts, and here its been a year already! I enjoy reading about others’ thoughts on our “last” years with this great sport.
I’m 63 and don’t know how much longer I’ll be able to surf, but I’m gonna do my best to enjoy whatever water time I have left in me, and just be grateful for all the waves and friends surfing has brought me over the years.
And hopefully make a few more boards before I hang it all up and switch to building and flying model airplanes as my go to escape.
