We got to keep things exciting and fresh.
It sound a bit bland, being a shaper can become a bit mundane, So it’s great to look into new materials and products that keep us intrigued. I’m frothing to introduce this stuff onto my boards…I hope!
I’ll get a photo of this stuff and post it up for my Aussie mates Tomorrow.
Cheers!
great stuff yorky, love to see you frothing mate, yeeeeeeeeewwwwwwww.
Hey Lowel–would this work to seal airbrushed pinlines as well? I’ve been using Matt’s 3CD uv finish, which seems to work ok, but it is spendy and I’m not so great at spraying.
mike
I know people on this site have reccomended using Future or Acrylic floor wax previously to seal a painted blank or pinlines and panels on a sanded hotcoat. I would think concrete/tile sealer would work even better for that particular appilcation.. Primarily because there would be less build up at the pinline so no noticable ridge. Maybe use a metal handled "glue" brush of the type they sell at Fiberglass Hawaii.
Hey Mcding; I wanted to clarify… When you say burnish do you mean give it a spin with a dry lambswool pad, i.e. no polish or buffing compound? I will post a couple of pics later when I get some but I am just in the process of trying out the ‘wet look’ behr sealer, so far when hit with buffing compound followed by polish it comes out maybe a notch or two glossier than I would describe as ‘low lustre’. But it dries super glossy before you mess with it. So if I could get a cleaner coat without dust contamination (I glass in my basement. it doesn’t matter how much you sweep/vac/wipe…) then it might be a pretty good poor man’s gloss finish.
Obviously no info on durability yet. How durable is the low lustre stuff in your experience? Also I am using this over epoxy… hopefully it doesn’t have a shitty bond.
hey yorky i dont know if they have smart an finals down under but the acrylic floor wax i get from there as like getto rat mentioned is the stuff ive been using for a while now and works decent enough, and goes a long way
when i used to do alot of boards at the same time i would wipe down 10 to 15 boards at a time and by the time i finished wiping down the last board i could put another layer on the first board or flip it and start the next side
once it was dried i hit it lightly with the scotch bright pad and it was done
oh and if you get some sand through s i used to put a couple of extra layers on it and then hand sand with the scotch bright pad parallel to the stringer and that usually hid the cloth
hope this helps
…the are no water based speed finishes that last forever as the other, more toxic, speed finishes.
I like to use lambswool to apply the sealer, nice even coat. But, I use a fine scotchbrite 3m pad either maroon or white under my orbital sander to burnish after it's dry. Low lustre or gloss; either should wear the same. Only differance is the sheen(shine). Glad to see "secret sauce" is working out for some of you.
Thanks Mcding, I will check out the scotchbrite pads. Sounds like an autobody shop trip! … replenish my masking tape at the same time.
I have to work on a better way of keeping the rails clean; I have some really annoying ultra thin but defined lines running along the rails from the tape lines when I applied this stuff… maybe an earlier tape pull and a quick brush cleanup along the edges or something. But I didn’t want to form the hardened drips you were talking about before. I have another board to try on in a couple of days… maybe a higher gloss this time.
Cheers,
I never tape the rails for this finish. Just make sure you lay everthing down flat with you applicator under the rail edge. Taping the rail creates another issue/problem. Just run your applicator around the bottom edge to lay everything down. It's good to come back and check it after a few minutes to make sure there are no drips, which usually occurr if you got too much sealer on and it ran off the deck onto the rail.
I really don’t like acrylic finishes. Noting wrong with them but like has been said. A well glassed hot coated and sanded board shouldn’t have sand throughs. For the past few years I’ve been using a spray on cleaner wax for cars. It has to be a Carnauba wax based product. The board has a nice slick feel to it. You can buff it even and get a dull luster. Spray on and hand buff after. It doesn’t yellow or show dirty finger prints. I have taken a gray fine scotch brite to the board after a few coats. Car wax is really weather proof. It gives your board such a nice slick feel to the bottom. Just an easy non rocket science method
i agree sano - nothing like a well executed sand finish.
i like a little bit of polish on a scotch brite pad to finish it off. smooth and deadly!
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Got this stuff at Home Depot the other day. ~$25 per gallon. I think it’s what McDing recommends. Will give it a shot this week.
After a little more experimentation and some recommendations from cabinetmakers and autobody guys I have found that cheesecloth (just straight from the baking aluminum foil/wax paper section in the grocery store, a couple dollars) is an excellent applicator for the concrete sealer. Anybody looking for a way of applying it might have good luck with it… I didn’t have any luck finding a lambswool applicator even after checking a couple autobody places etc. But the cheescloth works great and saturates well so it is really easy to control how much of the product is staying on the board; unlike my first run using a brush where there was far too much on the board resulting in messy edges and me using tape. The cheesecloth makes for easy wet feathering on the rails and if you wring it out it picks up excess easily.
more tomorrow on results maybe…
I used a sponge with great success, after Yur done then was out the sponge. After it dried I used a gray scotch pad to smooth out the look.
McD. or others who use this stuff: What grit do you sand the hot-coat to prior to applying this finish? I’m getting ready to give it a shot tomorrow…
Thanks
320 grit, then apply 3 to 4 coats
You guys have got it figured out. Good going. Cheese cloth, sponge, lambs wool or micro fleece, all work. I don't like swirl marks or scratches from hand sanding so I go thru the grits until they are gone. Then wipe on a coat, more if you feel like you need it.
This is very helpful for me. I am never going to be able to do a gloss coat in my garage. This seems to be a good alt.
I'm curious why the Behr product is to be applied with cheese cloth. Why not brush it out like a gloss coat?
all the best
