I’ve used paper coffee filters to apply acrylic. No lint, no noticable weave. Fine enough to lay a smooth thin coat with no bubbles.
I’m completely new at this greg but I did the brush and then I did the cheesecloth. My observations are:
with a brush, it is harder to take product away if you put too much on the board. Also on the rails it is more difficult to feather it out around the rails, so I ended up using tape the same as I would with a resin gloss or hot coat. This tape line proved to be difficult and frustrating to get rid of.
with cheesecloth you can put this stuff on thinner and around the rails it is really easy to wring out the cloth and then wipe off excess as it tries to drip around the rail. five minutes of babysitting and it generally stops trying to dribble and hang off the upside down side of the board; then you can leave it.
After trying both, I found the cheesecloth to be far superior. I also tried a little sponge roller but it introduced all kinds of horrible bubbles and mess into it. I’ll be sticking with the two dollar package of cheesecloth, which I can easily rinse out between applications. One little pad of it does a full board at a material cost of around 25 cents.
Or a 2"x2 " sponge
Anybody else use one of these? Costs a little under $4. Works really well. I rinse it and store in a ziplock bag.
regards, Dave D
Yes! They work well. There are also stain applicators that work well too. The whole trip is to wipe it on with the applicator that works best for you, with no taping of the rails. Brushing applies to much material at once. Wiping insures a thinner, even coat. If one isn't enough; hit it again. You've all got a handle on it. Congrats. Lowel
I just did my first try yesterday with the Behr Premium Low-Lustre Sealer (Concrete, Brick, and Tile). Used a stain applicator like the one pictured above. Got a 4-pack for a couple bucks at HD. I was surprised at how quickly the stuff dries. The bottle says 1 hour to the touch and 4 hours for the second coat, but it dried to the touch in a couple of minutes! If I did anything wrong, it was perhaps laying it on a bit too thick. I had a few bumpy streaks that scotch brite couldn’t break down. Had to go back to 320 grit to take them down, then back to grey scotch brite for final finish. Next time, I’m going to babysit a bit more and really rub it on flat. The stain applicators absorb any excess, and you can wring out and wrinse with water.
Just a mention to let everyone know that this sealer has been recommended in the "Spackle" thread as a thinner for lightweight spackle rather than distilled water. A multi-use material/resource.
Hey Yorky,
how did this stuff go??
If it was good or you found another brand, when you get five can you let us know what you’re using and what you think? thanks.
cheers,
Mick.
i was just wondering if anyone in the uk has found a similar and sutable product to use, i found a few concrete and brick sealers in the builders center but it could get expensif buying them just to try if they dont work out. i had a old bottle of future floor finish which i used with good results but the stuf you buy now is cloudy in colour and sented and when i tried it on a test pice it did feel a little waxy which its name sugests so not sure its worth risking using it.
these are the kinda things ive been looking at but alot of the time they dont state what they are made from and the only thing that gives you a little clue is the cleaning instructions but ive found quite a few that say white sprit so not to sure.
if any one has any idea that would be geat
cheers charlie
…man all this talk about these sealers; I tell ya, these sealers do not hold the seal for longtime. Period.
Cannot hold rust and evryday surf for longtime fellas.
You should use another type of sealer as a speed finished for plastics, Euro products, used on the sport vessels or expensive cars parts
Said I would post some pics earlier in this thread and haven’t yet really; here is a slightly grainy blown up version (also on the resin tints thread, apologies for double image posting) that shows a bit how the glossy version of the Behr sealer came out after a finish gloss, light sand with 1000 to 2000 and a polish with standard polishing compound and a foam pad…
Zig when everybody else Zags. Guess you'd be happy if I said every glass shop on the West Coast is wrong and "You" are right. If these guys are having fun with it and it's working out for them; why do you give a $#!t?
…you are right about the fun stuff, my apologize.
-regarding those shops…for what I see they are more concerned in sanded gloss coats and show gloss than speed finished coats.
Most have the gloss coats pretty damn right.
But regarding other stuff, its all smoke and mirrors, you know, all those …lost boards were fantastics, etc then a month ago couple of guys from France are what the ultimate in glassing is refered…at least one of these guys, 5 years ago did not know how a board was done…think about it…think about in that the world is far bigger than S California, with lots of talented and creative people and better materials.