Has anyone ever tried doing a watercolor’esk color job directly on the foam. If you got water based watercolors, would that work?
Yes, tempera paints work fine directly on pu foam. I have used latex on eps foam.Make sure you give the “water” in it plenty of time to dry.
Woody, I want to do like a two color job with the back 1/3 a scarlett color and the front 2/3 a blue green color. I will wrap the rails until the lap. Should I just do a resin tint or would you use water color?
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Most surfboards are painted with water based paints...aka....watercolor.......
......"color jobs".....well,,,,,,that's all fancy art stuff.....done with all kinds of fancy stuff........
...and What is Scarlett color?....( red?)....
A simple resin tint sounds so easy vs. a water color........but......it's not so simple...and not so easy......Do you know how to cut lap? Do you own a spray gun..aka...air brush? There's lots of people here that can help you. We need to know more about what you are doing. What foam, What paint, What resin? Brands of products help too.....
Ray
Ok, I do know how to cut lap and I was just basing the premis of the question on wether or not I should use a water-soluable paint instead of try to mess with a two tone tint job.
I know you've seen my work with resin so you already know that I'm going with resin vs. paint.
I just think it looks better and stays sharp longer. Especially the red and black. I can't give you the science but I have unfortunately learned not to paint those colors. Resin on the other hand is different.
The plan you have posted will work just fine with paint. You may want to search the archives about using red paint and the problems associated with it and change your color selection. Also very important that you not put on too much paint. Spray it if you can. If you want that watercolor effect look at the couple of boards that "OhHerrooo" just did with water colors and brush.
Also what foam are you using??
By all means, I dont want to use paint. I just wasnt sure if doing a two tone resin tint was above my skill level. The picture I provided is much cleaner then I would like too. On top the cut lap will keep it clean which is nice but where the colors actually touch, I would like them to blend a little, like purposely sloppy, just a little bit.
I have PU foam.
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I know you've seen my work with resin so you already know that I'm going with resin vs. paint.
I just think it looks better and stays sharp longer. Especially the red and black. I can't give you the science but I have unfortunately learned not to paint those colors. Resin on the other hand is different.
The plan you have posted will work just fine with paint. You may want to search the archives about using red paint and the problems associated with it and change your color selection. Also very important that you not put on too much paint. Spray it if you can. If you want that watercolor effect look at the couple of boards that "OhHerrooo" just did with water colors and brush.
Also what foam are you using??
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Its funny you mention not wanting to do paint with red or black. Last spring I did the board below as a red resin tint in epoxy resin on poliester foam. The board was beautiful right up til the first time it was exposed to the summer sun for about 20 minutes. It turned a horrid orange / yellow shade of sort of splotchy red. The worst part was I had thrown my rash guard on the board and I had a big splotch of the original color. I for one will never put red resin tint in epoxy resin again. The boards I've made with red and black paint still all look good. Go figure.
Yeah Mako, I remember you building that board! Is it still one of your favs?
I should have been more specific. What I meant to say was red or black "pigment" vs. paint.
Certain "tint" colors, esp. red seem to be very suseptable to UV damage. Black and red paints are also... plus they are horrible to cover the pure white foam without causing crystalization (I think thats the term I've heard used) which causes blotchiness and delaminations. I basically just stay away from those colors now, and just like you all my red tints...in swirls or whatever are now pink or some other weird shade! The boards I stubbornly painted with large panels of black almost immediately turned gray.
Plenty of the pro guys can pull it off, some of Austin's work in red and black is just remarkable.
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By all means, I dont want to use paint. I just wasnt sure if doing a two tone resin tint was above my skill level. The picture I provided is much cleaner then I would like too. On top the cut lap will keep it clean which is nice but where the colors actually touch, I would like them to blend a little, like purposely sloppy, just a little bit.
I have PU foam.
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Tape it off for the cutlap...get your two colors ready and lam the thing. You can put down a peice of masking tape for a guide onto your cloth (just lightly press it on). Don't let the resin run onto the tape it's just there as a guide.
Once you have the first color on gently pull the tape and put the second color on allowing it to mix right up to and little over the first color. Tuck the laps and you're bottom lam is done. I would also make sure that the area where the two colors meet is level before your pour. You dont want to get runs where they meet just some overlap.
Woody, great call about it being level. I would have never thought of that till it was running. I already ordered both blue and red tint. Are there any backyard trade secrets you would willingly give up? Like if you put a lighter shade of red is it less likely to delaminate or fade?
No Just the opposite. You need alot of red so it doesn’t look pink. Also make sure the foam is as perfect as you can make it. Every little flaw will be highlighted with tint.
Ok. The last couple times I lam’d I used about 70oz for the deck with two layers of 6oz cloth. So for the red portion, I will probably need 25ish oz of red resin. How much tint would you say I need? Also for the blue? Im using suncure laminating resin and surf source’s tint.
I never paid attention to measuring the tint. You can mix it in till it looks right on the stir stick…then do a small test patch on a piece of scrap cloth. You will know pretty quick when you get it right when it hits that cloth. Just a few dribbles onto the cloth with your stir stick will gauge it pretty well. The red is tough to get it really red so it takes quite a bit.
Hello Xander......
Jump on board with Woody and take it all the way. Please make sure you understand the difference between a "pigment" and a "tint".....
.....When you want to jump onto the Epoxy bandwagon let me know.....and...
.....spend some time thinking about how the colors will blend and how you will run the squeege....not a standard glass job....I like your ideas....
Stingray
Hey Xander...one last tidbit. Save a little of each color (just a couple oz). It's UV so it will keep as long as UV rays don't get to it. I use an empty and dry water bottle. Cover the bottle with duct tape so light can't get to the resin and then stash em in a box or cupboard (someplace dark). That way you'll have a little to use if you run into any problems grinding your laps etc. If you have more than that left over don't toss it...save it the same way. You can use it for fin boxes, plugs etc.
Thank you for the infor guys. Much appreciated.
Stingray, I know that picture in paint is a little misleading but I do want the colors to be transluscent and not opaque. I just couldnt afigure out how to do that in Microsoft paint haha.
Woody, that is a great idea. I have one last question. I will be doing glass-ons, so, do I need to laminated the fins with red tinted resin as well or can i do clear?
Thank you again guys.
Nope clear will be fine.
Awesome, well boys… I will press on and face this challenge. Ill post some pictures and a report as soon as I finish.
Good luck man! Planning is everything. I think you've done your due diligence on the homework. Plan your execution and things will turn out just fine!